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GAL 356 - Printable Version

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RE: GAL 356 - Damien9479 - 01-23-2010

Cool Phil!!....now I hope your new supplies you got there keeps your enthusiasm up there mate!!!
I remember the last time we talked you said you were feeling kinda flat...Know that feeling there bud!!
But I like what you are doing here and keep it going!! Big Grin


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-24-2010

Thanks Tom!!

You are right,the motivation had been pretty low there for a fair while.It's just something i've been going through and i know you fully undrstand where i'm coming from!But this is a fun piece to play with and thankfully now that nearly everything is on hand to really make some progress with it.I'm sorta on a mission with it now,it's got to be done and off the bench before the start of the next build,and that one will be starting in no more than 3 week's.So i gotta pull me finger out and make more progress than i did today with it.But i've still got the night here so i still hope to get the cockpit base fitted and sealed up tonight.

The little FA i achieved today was getting the front power supply point's fitted with the wires soldered in place in them and also the reshaping of the section leading to the front mount point.Just some epoxy putty to start with and then some normal putty to fill all that in.I wanted the epoxy behind where the brass tubes are so they had something to hold em good and proper then i just used 5 min epoxy to glue those brass tubes in once all that was shaped good enough.

Oh and one shot just showing a side view,i like the look of the shuttle very much!


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 01-24-2010

Again looking GOOD Phil!!! Like i said before once you get the major section together it starts to fall together fairly fast.


RE: GAL 356 - LastBattlestar - 01-24-2010

Yep, she's really on the way now Phil. Feels good, doesn't it?Cool

3 weeks before the 'Other Build' start? You'd better clue me up on that one dude!

Mike


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-25-2010

Thanks again guy's!!

It does feel good building something again for sure.

Mike,i think you know which build that'll be mate!Wink


RE: GAL 356 - DarthDuck - 01-25-2010

You're nearly to the fun of paint, eh mate?

Hella cool so far and those electronics will be that much more in the visual interest department!Cool


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-25-2010

Excellent work mate. She's comin along real good. I think Im stuck where you just came from.


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-25-2010

Looking great Phil. How does the electrical work with te brass connections as you have them? How are you plugging in to these?


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-25-2010

(01-25-2010, 06:47 AM)DarthDuck Wrote: You're nearly to the fun of paint, eh mate?

Hella cool so far and those electronics will be that much more in the visual interest department!Cool

I think th elighting on this one although probably not very practical for long running gives a really desired effect mate?They look different to the eye but for the pictures they are pure gold in my book.Also the fact that these sorta bulbs were used on the original model gives em the correct look when not lit.The bells i'm pretty sure are not what was originally used,so the way they are fitted looks different to how it should be,but it was either that or have em hanging out the back of the bells by about 1/2 inch.
The paint is a way off still,got a hundred greeblies to chuck on the thing yet,but as always i feel it'll be a part i dred once again.I guess i'll just cross that bridge when i get there though like always?Wink

(01-25-2010, 07:19 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Excellent work mate. She's comin along real good. I think Im stuck where you just came from.

Don't worry mate,it'll all be good again soon and the builds will continue.There are some cool projects on the not too distant horizon bud.Plenty of casting work heading your way,just to add to your already busy workload.But having fun and enjoying it all is what is really needed most?So just get that moto back and have fun!Cool

(01-25-2010, 07:21 AM)dbhs Wrote: Looking great Phil. How does the electrical work with te brass connections as you have them? How are you plugging in to these?

Cheers there my partner in crime!!Big Grin
Well,i haven't done a power run using this method,god i hope it bloody works!!Rolleyes
If i make some progress tonight i'll dummy it all up and see if they actually work or not.I'm just gonna use the next smaller diameter brass as my power in plug's that will slip inside the ones i have mounted in the shuttle.
I'm sure this will work???ConfusedSmile
I guess we'll find out,hope to post something a bit later for ya's!


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-26-2010

OK,so some progress has been made and if not for a last minute addition being thrown in the two halves would have been sealed up tonight.Instead that might be tomorrow night,if not the next night anyway.
So,the good news is the method i wanted to use to power the shuttle does work,like there was any doubt that it wouldn't?Rolleyes
It actually works a charm and although it's not a hidden way of powering this thing it's very much how it was done on th efilming minature.For the first time this is what i'm trying to achieve,a proper studio used look to a model.So some things will look a little rough,but again it's only there to do the purpose and in this case the purpose was to look OK on tv only.So the styrene sheets in the cockpit will be left just like that,white styrene.Nothing fancy to look at but does the job of reflecting light very well.Wink

OK,so in the pic's you'll see the LED's are fitted although not epoxied in yet.The test run went good,the lighting looks different to the naked eye but the brightness was plenty.I actually sanded then today to remove the hot spots they were throwing and if anything it looks betta now than it does in the pictures.
I've fitted the front halves of the centre mount plate blocks and installed the side power feed point's,These will be covered by the Morser cover part that will be there when not side mounting it.

After hearing from Doug today i now plan on fitting the rear power connection to wires and using them also.I intended to add them but not run the wires originally.But Doug just like's giving me ideas that i can't say no too.So i've added the big wing piece to the bottom now so i can get the entex parts lined up as best i can and then drill the holes through the body for those two power feed point's.
If all goes to plan,tomorrow night i'll achieve that and get it sealed up as well.Of course Doug might find something else that needs doing beforehand?Confused LOL!!

[attachment=2561][attachment=2557][attachment=2558][attachment=2559][attachment=2560]


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-27-2010

That is a killer look with the cockpit lights installed.

I had no doubt about those bare wire connectors. Make sure your hands aren't wet when you touch them !!

Going to be awesome with the rear plugs as well. I'm going to have to give that a shot too. Just too cool.


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-27-2010

Damn that looks sweet! Thanks for showin me where the cockpit lights go. At least I can get them hooked up! So did your LED's already come wired or did you do it? looking great anyway champ.


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-27-2010

It looks like the plugs are pretty far away from the mount in this photo. Are they still concealed under the cover? I guess you located them so they don't go through the mouting block behind.

[Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=2561]


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 01-27-2010

WOW!!!! The lights look SUPER COOL!!Big Grin


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-27-2010

Jase,Mark,cheers once again guy's!!

Jase,The LED's came pre wired and with the resistors already fitted.Just needed to be hooked up to the power wires and bob's ya uncle as they say.

Doug,yeah i've gone right on the edge of that side block.It just doesn't have enough meat there because of the shape of it.Thats because it's basicly just enough there for the coupler to fit in and not much else really.I didn't wanna take a chance that the pin's might earth against the armature.So like i said,i went right on the edge instead.I five minute epoxied the tubing to the body then used epoxy putty and built it up around them and joined it to the side of that block instead.The tubing is sticking inside 20mm so there is a good hold on them to the block and i can't see em moving.The side cover Morser part covers the tubing no problems at all.As you'd already know there,that Morser part sits up a little off that edge,i nearly got caught out myself there,i'm so glad i looked at the pictures one more time!

Anyway,the rear power tubes are wired and epoxied in place,i just gotta solder the wires up,mount the LED's properly then test it all from each feed point and i think i'm good to join the forwrd and aft section for good.
Unless i've missed something that is???


[attachment=2576][attachment=2577]


RE: GAL 356 - DarthDuck - 01-27-2010

Phil,
It's looking bloody killer there mate! You're steaming right along and I think I can sense the fun you're having!
Keep popping those pics so we can all enjoy it with ya!Big Grin


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-27-2010

Thanks there me feathered mate!!
Just between you and I,i am having some fun again with this build.

I didn't end up getting it sealed up yet,got th efront half epoxied onto the centre plate but then i decided to do a little gap filling work around that plate and the front section.So tomorrow night it is gonna be now,but things still have gone good,the other two power connection points work just as sweet as the front one did!

I have got one little question i need answered though before i can seal it up for good and hopefully someone here can help again.
These LED's run a white wire and a yellow wire,which one would be th epositive using that colour combo??


RE: GAL 356 - LastBattlestar - 01-28-2010

The longest leg on the LED (which would also have the resistor attached) is the positive connection Phil, unless someone wants to dispute my logic?Tongue

Mike


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-28-2010

You are correct Master Mike! Lookin good you furry bastidos!


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 01-28-2010

Outstanding work Phil!!!Big Grin


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-28-2010

That looks awesome, Phil.

Any alignment issues with those pieces that you put the brass plugs through? Did they just line up directly with the piece on the bottom?


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-28-2010

Mike,Jase,guy's that would have been too easy,but the LED's have been cut back already so both connections are the same length.But i'm all good with it now,Ron has helped out once again and seyt me straight on what i have(see model lighting section).
Mark,cheers again mate,i'm getting there ever so slowly.
Doug,alignment issue's?You betcha mate,you are gonna have fun trying to get this area right,or perhaps it was just me.I aint saying what i've done is right,and infact i think i have thing's out just a little,but it don't look too bad really.First i glued the two wing pieces on the bottom,then i stuck with tape,the part that sit's above the entex jps part's.This gave me the area i had to play around with and try and get to work out.I think i'll let you workout what works best for you as i'm pretty sure what i've got can be done betta than i did.Those entex parts sit below the bottom edge the way i've done mine and i just couldn't get the two entex parts to line up the same with the positioning i've ended up with.The two rear brass tubes are not level because of this,but it's something i'm gonna live with!I could have filled the hole and redone on to get it level but i couldn't really be bothered.

Thats just me being slack really!


RE: GAL 356 - LastBattlestar - 01-28-2010

I've never seen you being slack with your builds Phil. You go WAY above and beyond what I'd ever bother to do!Exclamation

Mike


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-30-2010

^
I don't know about that but,if there is a way to fuck up a perfectly good model,i'll be the one ta do it!
Having one key part out will put everything else out,and as per normal i've managed to do it again.Oh well,heres the latest lot of fuck up's,and i'm sure there are more to follow soon!!

[attachment=3007][attachment=3008][attachment=3009]


RE: GAL 356 - LastBattlestar - 01-31-2010

Bloody hell dude, that's looking sharp! You have far more patience than I!

So, all finished by next weekend then?

Mike


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-31-2010

^
It's not looking that sharp,but thanks anyway!
Still kicking myself about having a crucial part out place which has had me doing the best i can to get something that still looks half respectable i still hope.Not sure about the patience either but i guess least i didn't box it with the frustration it's caused.
I guess if anything it'll be more like the original model a bit the way things have had to be layed out now?
I think i'll be pushing it trying to have it completed by next weekend.Infact i haven't got a chance at all.If i'm lucky it might be to the stage of needing paint but i think that'll be the best i can hope for.Good news on the other build,the crylic is cut and it'll be on it's way down here soon,i think that'll all be here before this one is completed.

Well i'm calling it a night/morning now,played a little more and this stuff all went down pretty good.No stress anyway came into it.I think i'll leave the rest of the bottom stuff now,it's really only the legs and the parts associated with them plus a couple of bit's to go in the chin area,one of which has to scratched up outa some styrene rod.So tomorrow or later today infact is a new day and i'll start tackling around the engines there and work my way forward.We'll see what fun that bring's me??

[attachment=3010]


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-31-2010

Well, I can find anything wrong with this. You'll have to point out the fuck ups to prove there are any at all. Looks spectacular, my friend !!

It looks like the armature is holding together still. That's good.


RE: GAL 356 - DarthDuck - 01-31-2010

(01-31-2010, 05:42 AM)dbhs Wrote: Well, I can find anything wrong with this. You'll have to point out the fuck ups to prove there are any at all. Looks spectacular, my friend !!

It looks like the armature is holding together still. That's good.


If you don't know, our friend Wombat is notoriously harsh upon himself and what he calls "all ass" is usually golden!

Looking great Phil but then, that's what I expect from you!

The Wombat with the 14K ass!Tongue


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-31-2010

You suck Phil & better knock off the pesemism or Im gonna throw a grenade in the hole of yours to snap you out of it! That is lookin SICK mate!


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 01-31-2010

WOW!!!!!!!!!!! That looks outstanding Phil !!!Big Grin From looking at yours i can see you got the small parts that iam missing.


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-31-2010

Thanks again to all you guy's but i've really fucked this build up.Enough that it's gonna be boxed now.Theres not much i can do with the latest discovery that i created.it's either crack it with a hammer and hope that it doesn't split or box it.So i think boxing it will be they way to go until i get over my disappointment of doing such a bad job with such a great kit.

Mark,there were part's missing in my kit also,but it seems i've been wasting now proper kit parts for a lot of the build.So they me be the part's you are talking about?

Mod's,can you delete this thread in a week or so,i don't wanna be reminded of the pile of shit i created!
Thanks!!


OK,i've calmed a little and we'll keep the thread going,it'll be a good one for how NOT to go about building a shuttle afterall!!


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 01-31-2010

What happen Phil? It can't be that bad. Iam sure it can be fixed don't give up now my friend.


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-31-2010

You are right there Mark,i was just disappointed at my latest discovery mate.
I'll fix it up and move on.This time it's the engines i haven't got bloody right,there's not quite enough room to fit the Leopold barrel on the top side's.It's like a book of "didn't get right's" at present.
But i've calmed down a little and with a good piece of wood i've managed to crack em both off of the body without splitting it.I really didn't think they woulda come off as i used 5 min epoxy and then epoxy putty to fill the gap's.But luckily and with some of the 14k arse that the feathered one mentioned,they did pop off OK.

So i guess thing's aren't as bad as they were looking an hour ago!


RE: GAL 356 - DarthDuck - 01-31-2010

WOMBIE?

I'm saddened to hear you suffered a setback but relieved to learn that you found a way to remedy it!
I can almost guarantee though that 99.9% of all living creatures on this planet wouldn't have been the wiser if you just fudged it and carried on without disclosing the mishap.
That's to say you really do hold yourself to incredibly high standards my friend.

Lucky for our viewing pleasure though that you will persevere and display those high standards in finished form soon!Wink


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-31-2010

Good come back Phil! Everythings fixable. Resin has a beautiful habit of rejoining perfectly when glued & you haven't even needed to do that. I been looking at those parts trying to figure the spaceing on the greeblies between the engine mount. Just remeber buddy. Your an Aussie & we don't give up, not even when the burrow caves in!


RE: GAL 356 - 427 Cobra - 01-31-2010

Listen,Phil. I go through the exact same thing you do everyday! I know you suffer the same affliction as I do - perfectionism. We're not the only ones on this forum who do. You don't realise what damage you do to your own psyche when you bash your work! You don't realise how many times I've gone back to the start on each part of my X-wing build - just to make the perfect part - the perfect shape,and size,width,and height. There are some that I feel are still inferior,even though everyone else thinks they're spot on. I want absolute accuracy. This is why I measure,remeasure,cut,scrape,and look at the photos,and go through several versions scrapping the smallest parts because I'm not satisfied with the way they look according to the reference photos.


There's no flashes of genius here,just a slow endless thought process of how to get where I need to be in order to achieve the same results I'm looking for. You are too hard on yourself! This is why I have to NOT GLUE parts together,or on another until I see that they are as perfect to the original model as possible. I want what's right for everyone - especially since the model I'm making will be built not just by me,but by others who are depending on MY skills as a model maker,and machinist to offer the best,and most accurate version of this,or any model I have to offer. Anyone who offers a model should include ALL the parts with it,and not most,but make you find the rest! NO model company ever does that. This is why I'm going to make all the parts according the original,so that you don't have to hunt them down! You're doing an excellent job at this. Don't be so hard on yourself! Go slowly - there's no time limit,or deadline to reach for us on this forum. This way,you can make it as enjoyable knowing you took your time,and care to ensure the most accurate,and enjoyable model you can build with your two hands.


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-31-2010

You guy's are great!!

I thank you all for your kind and encouraging word's there.
I'm not sure i push myself more than anyone else that build's,but perhaps i'm just trying to achieve too much at times?
This latest little set back even though i've got the part's removed again is still causing me some grief on how it all work's to get it looking like the b&w pictures again.I thought the spacing was prety good and infact everything else around the engines was fitting OK,it was just the one Leopold part that was throwing a spanner in the works.So now to get the Leopold part in place it seems to be throwing out the look for the other part's.Perhaps this is another case of the model being made symmetrical again?I don't know but i've been playing around here for a bit and can't get everything to fit like in the b&w picture where spacing is concerned.
I should just go back to how i use to build em as a kid perhaps.In the case of planes is was slap em together,no painting and when i wanted to have fun i'd stick a kero soaked rag in there arse and watch em be shot down! LOL!
I'll play around some more here but i'm struggling to get things to work out still.We'll see what happens this time.

Thanks again Gang!!!Cool


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 01-31-2010

Mark, (and other Shuttle-ers)

The kit is missing parts. Mike knows about this and told me that he'll be sending them out when he can start casting again. The parts missing are both 19s and 21 in this photo. There are 2 more parts missing that Mike said are too small to cast and he'll post instructions for scratch building them in his thread on RI. These are the little things hanging off the sides of the shuttle (#28) and the tiny prongs on the end of the antenna. And there's also a tube piece missing at the center top (#36)that Mike said needs to be scratched from a rod or tube.

Lastly, Mike told me that the piece in the photo next to the metric ruler goes in the cockpit and he'll post that up on RI when he gets to it in his build.

-Doug


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 01-31-2010

Kool thanks Doug. Team work. I love it.


RE: GAL 356 - LastBattlestar - 01-31-2010

Sounds like we've been both having a day of hell at the bench, Phil!

Damn dude, knocking those engines off with a lump of wood: classic Aussie no-bullshit ingenuity!

Don't be so hard on yourself mate, you are definitely one of the top builders in the game these days. I can build big things, but your level of precision is better than I can do. Wait until I get my Shuttle- it will look like a kids toy compared to yours!

Mike


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 01-31-2010

^
Well,i hope your day hasn't been as bad as mine,one unhappy camper is enough in this neck of the woods mate!
As for the quality of work,c'mon your work's are just outstanding and everyone know's that already!Me,i've arsed my way through one build so far,and going on what i've achieved with this kit my next build is gonna be one ugly duckling if i can't turn thing's around.


So anyway,the news on this one is the engines are back on along with the entex part i had to remove also.I'm still not sure what i've got is the best that can be done with all this,but at least the Leopold barrel's can fit now.The problem is it has other part's sitting a little lower than what it appears to be in the pictures of the shuttle.I don't know,but i couldn't get it to work any other way.I'm just gonna have ta hope it still looks OK once all the greeblies are layed out around em.Least they will all fit in there now,i'll see if i can get some of them on tomorrow night and hopefully theres no dramas this time?


RE: GAL 356 - Tordoc - 02-01-2010

I've got my armature together and I am ready to drill the hole at the bottom of the front section. Any consensus on how far forward from the aft edge I should center my drill? I don't want to eyeball it and mess it up. My first thought was to glue on the trim piece that lies over that area and drill center my drill on the round section, but I want to know how all of you did it.


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 02-01-2010

Its scary drilling those armature holes but what youve suggested should work just fine. There are scribe lines on the outside of the hull that show the location. You could just drill in the centre of that then enlarge your hole with the Dremil just enough for you pipe to screw in.


RE: GAL 356 - Tordoc - 02-01-2010

Yikes. I see scribe marks and pilot holes for everywhere except the bottom. Hope I don't screw it up.


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 02-01-2010

Hey Phil i am very glad you got the engines worked out and iam a little mad at myself because when i first saw the early pic's you posted of the engines i said to myself that i thought they looked a little on the high side but i did'nt say anything because i thought i may have put mind on a little to low but now i wish i had said something before you got as far as you did so iam sorry about that my friend .
(01-31-2010, 06:01 PM)dbhs Wrote: Mark, (and other Shuttle-ers)

The kit is missing parts. Mike knows about this and told me that he'll be sending them out when he can start casting again. The parts missing are both 19s and 21 in this photo. There are 2 more parts missing that Mike said are too small to cast and he'll post instructions for scratch building them in his thread on RI. These are the little things hanging off the sides of the shuttle (#28) and the tiny prongs on the end of the antenna. And there's also a tube piece missing at the center top (#36)that Mike said needs to be scratched from a rod or tube.

Lastly, Mike told me that the piece in the photo next to the metric ruler goes in the cockpit and he'll post that up on RI when he gets to it in his build.

-Doug

Hey Doug thanks for the info, parts 19 and 21 are the ones iam missing for the under side but there is one more part iam missing that go's on the side under the engines that looks like a T pipe i guess you could say, it go's right behide the A frame part .


RE: GAL 356 - JAWS - 02-01-2010

(02-01-2010, 08:17 AM)Tordoc Wrote: Yikes. I see scribe marks and pilot holes for everywhere except the bottom. Hope I don't screw it up.

Use the Leopold part that goes on that spot on the bottom. The round piece is where the pipe should come through. Very convenient & I wish I had have known that before I did mine the hard way Confused


RE: GAL 356 - Tordoc - 02-01-2010

Thanks. That was my plan


RE: GAL 356 - dbhs - 02-01-2010

(02-01-2010, 07:30 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Its scary drilling those armature holes but what youve suggested should work just fine. There are scribe lines on the outside of the hull that show the location. You could just drill in the centre of that then enlarge your hole with the Dremil just enough for you pipe to screw in.

This is what I did. The only safe thing to do as far as I could tell.

Also the cover over the bottom can hide some slop in the hole below so i'd drill that out and attach after the armature is in place and you can correct the hole if mis-aligned.


RE: GAL 356 - Wombat - 02-01-2010

Well i just must have fluked my bottom hole,but all i did was lay out that Railgun part with the hole already opened up in it to the size it should be.I then just lined it penciled it onto the model and dremeled it out.
The way the build has gone so far i'm amazed it wasn't another thing i didn't quite get right,but thankfully it's all perfect there.



(02-01-2010, 11:24 AM)79 Daytona Wrote: Hey Phil i am very glad you got the engines worked out and iam a little mad at myself because when i first saw the early pic's you posted of the engines i said to myself that i thought they looked a little on the high side but i did'nt say anything because i thought i may have put mind on a little to low but now i wish i had said something before you got as far as you did so iam sorry about that my friend .

Hey no problems Mark.I look at the reference and to me if you lay out the part's above the engines in the same sorta positioning on the body then it give's a good idea how low the engines should sit.This is how i did mine,but it's a mile out when it came to fitting that Leoplod barrel.Everything else was looking OK i thought but perhaps this is another case of the model being made symmetrical that is having th epositioning a little different to how it is on the original and the ones casted from that model?I don't know,but i can't get it to work trying to get that look.What i've got now is about the best i could do to get that barrel to fit in.



Hey Doug thanks for the info, parts 19 and 21 are the ones iam missing for the under side but there is one more part iam missing that go's on the side under the engines that looks like a T pipe i guess you could say, it go's right behide the A frame part .

That part is from the Harrier kit and i did get both of mine in my kit.It looks like your's has just been missed,but Mike will cover you for that if you drop him a mail.Thats one thing about Mike,he'll make sure the customer is happy.He's a good fella as we all know!!


RE: GAL 356 - 79 Daytona - 02-01-2010

Cool!! Thanks for the info Phil I'll drop Mike a line this week and see if he has a extra one laying around if not I'll try and make something that looks close to the part.