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+--- Thread: BSG Shuttle GAL356 (/thread-265.html)
BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-13-2009
I've been waiting a long time for one of these. It doesn't look like this kit is going to disapoint either.
Super clean casting work from Mr. Salzo and great teamwork from the pattern builders Sean and Ryan.
I thought about building out the interior to match the set as seen on the show. I've seen a few builds of this out there that turned out really nice. But after thinking about it I decided to just go with the studio-model interior. I'll do the pipe armature and lighting as well to be as close to studio-model-accurate as possible.
-Doug
![[Image: GAL356-1.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-1.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-13-2009
It's a very impressive kit,good to see yours has arrived there.
I'll be doing the same as you with the interior,i'm going for that SS look not the set interior also.
Man,you're getting like Jase,a shit load of build's on the bench at once,but i guess it gives you a bit of choice what you feel like playing with at the time?
Be good seeing these all built up,i feel you that even though you was the last to get his you'll probably be the first to complete it.
Do you have a good link for an online LED shop?I wanna try getting something like the big bulb's that were used on the original if they make such a thing?
Anyway,no time to chat,you got casting's to clean up,and lot's of em!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-13-2009
Hey Phil !
Funny that you mentioned the lights. I happen to have a few bulbs that look very similar to what I've seen in the reference photos. I haven't measured them yet so not 100% sure they are right. I got them years ago from a doll-house store. At the time that was the only place I could find miniature lights. They were for a little diaorama that I never finished. They look like tiny incandescent bulbs that actually screw into sockets. I'll take a pic tomorrow.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-14-2009
This is what I have. They seem a little smaller than the original but the same round shape. I think these are intended to use with 12V power. Definitely not bright enough with a 9V battery.
I found these available here:
http://www.cir-kitconcepts.com called screw base bulbs and sockets.
![[Image: GAL356-2.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-2.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-3.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-3.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-4.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-4.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-14-2009
OK,thanks for posting that Doug.
Yeah,the sorta have a look that'd work for me but i agree,they are way to small and nowhere near bright enough.
I've been searching for places down here and there are automotive LED's that you can get,they are more like 9mm in diameter but that may still be to small?But again the problem is they are 12V also,i wanted to run an internal power supply (9V Batt) rather than feed with wires through the stand to feed em.But the build has to have the big bulb's to have the SS look about it,the small one's just don't cut it!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-14-2009
From the screen caps it seems that there's no detail intended in the engines...Just really bright lights.
I don't think that's going to be possible from a battery. I wanted to use a battery too but with these type of bulbs I'm thinking plug-in power supply will be necessary.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-15-2009
Wow kool stuff Doug. I want to get started on mine but am still awaiting mail with armiture. Had a relaxing weekend & look forward to building again this week. Hopefully.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - bwayne64 - 12-15-2009
I was thinking some of the super bright L.e.d 's would work. And still be low voltage. Maybe the head of one of those bright mini flashlights. You could recess the reflector in the engine tubing and cut down the flashlight body if needed. That's what I'm considering for mine anyway,
Good luck with the kit man, they are awesome, Cheers,Joe C
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 79 Daytona - 12-15-2009
That looks cool Doug, say how are you going mount the LED's.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-15-2009
The engine lights will need some sort of support inside the tubes of the engines. These are mosly hollow so that shouldn't be a problem.
For the cockpit, I'm not sure yet where the lights were located in the original. From the screen shots it seems the lighting is indirect so maybe they go in the middle right under the lid and just shine down around the central thing. This isn't very clear. As a group we should assign some names to these parts so we can all tell what we're talking about.....
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-15-2009
(12-14-2009, 06:19 PM)dbhs Wrote: From the screen caps it seems that there's no detail intended in the engines...Just really bright lights.
I don't think that's going to be possible from a battery. I wanted to use a battery too but with these type of bulbs I'm thinking plug-in power supply will be necessary.
Heres what i'm thinking at present.Still wanna power from a battery rather than an external source.I don't know what you call it,series or parallel,but joining two 9V batt's in whatever way it is to get 18V.Then use a resistor or whatever it is that's needed to bring it back to 12v output from the two batt's.Another thing to think about is the amout of degree the light is thrown,something with a 180 degree i think would be best?Afterall,we want to light the exhaust bell's not have a torch with a narrow beam.The only thing that may be a concern is how much heat a 12V LED put's out.As you know yourself there,these engine bell's are pretty damn thin and won't take much heat to distort them.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - LastBattlestar - 12-15-2009
Nah, I'm running 12V LEDs in my Moldy Crow and B wing and there is basically no heat at all after being on for hours. Worry not, young Phil!
Mike
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-15-2009
You're right. I don't see any problems with LEDs but the tiny incandescent bulbs will produce a lot more heat. Maybe not enough to be a problem but more than LEDs.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 427 Cobra - 12-16-2009
LEDs don't produce heat - only light! These are Light Emitting Diodes. This means that the tiny amount of the electrical current is so small that it has to be amplified 1000 times by the acrylic bulb formed around its' anode,and pentode. This allows this tiny electrical reaction between the two elements together to be seen by the human eye. This is how it works to make light without heat. This means that you can use it in small places without worrying about heat,or burnout where regular bulbs fail.
This is done with a tiny amount of current,so that you can see it,but it won't get hot no matter how long it's used. The spark that is seen between the two is caused by an external source going from one side to the other,with the two tangs of the conductors connected by a tiny filament. This light effect between the anode,and pentode is amplified to be seen,so that it can be used where a lightbulb is impractical. This way,you don't have to replace it,or worry about maintenance. It is very rare that you'll have to replace one,unless the power source your using is too much,and it causes the LED filament to "shortout",or break.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - swhite228 - 12-16-2009
(12-16-2009, 01:14 AM)427 Cobra Wrote: LEDs don't produce heat - only light!Actually they do produce some heat, not a lot but enough to raise the temperature in a glass light globe 20 degrees over the course of 72 hours.
Most of the heat comes from the resistors but the leds also add heat.
Here is the post from HobbyTalk where I did a small experiment out find out if leds really do generate heat
Quote:I took a 60 led string of Christmas lights (bright white color) and put them in a glass dome off an outdoor light fixture, then plugged them in.
After 3 days of constant use I pulled out the trusty digital instant read lab thermometer and got the following results
Room temp at the time of reading: 70.8 degrees f.
Temp inside of the glass globe with LEDs: 91.8 degrees f.
So the LED strand raised the temp by 21 degrees.
To be fair the resister pod on the strand was in the globe as well and I'm assuming that is where most of the heat came from.
So if the resistors could be moved away from the leds and placed outside of a model then heat wouldn't be an issue???
This was done with a strand of Christmas lights in a room where the temperature remains the same day and night. The globe was placed so there was no airflow same as a sealed model.
As a follow up I removed the resistor pack from the globe after letting the setup sit unpowered for 2 days to cool down, then powered the setup.
After 24 hours the temperature was 5 degrees higher than the room temprature.
I don't think anyone would leave a models lights on for days at a time so the temp leds generate over the space of say 20 minutes is nothing to worry about.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-16-2009
OK,so tempreture won't be an issue then.i can't see as you mentioned anyone running it for large periods of time in one hit.
I'm still looking for something though that may work.
This is the sorta thing i'm thinking about now,this has a 180 degree spread so should light the nozzel quite well i'd think?The sizing is 10mm but that also might nof be to bad?Theres a chart listed with figure's but i don't really know how right all that equates too.
They'd be nice if they were clear bulb's and a screw connection,but if they are not available and these would do the job i'd probably be happy with something like this.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s_1led.htm
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-17-2009
These look great and there's a lot of other cool light products there as well. I wish they had some photos of the bulbs lit up to get a better idea of how they'll look.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - swhite228 - 12-17-2009
(12-16-2009, 09:55 PM)Wombat Wrote: OK,so tempreture won't be an issue then.i can't see as you mentioned anyone running it for large periods of time in one hit.Watch as you get into the super bright leds they generate more heat than the garden variety you get at Radio Shack! Larger leds like the Luxon stars require heat sinks and can generate over 100 degrees of heat them selves.
I'm still looking for something though that may work.
This is the sorta thing i'm thinking about now,this has a 180 degree spread so should light the nozzel quite well i'd think?The sizing is 10mm but that also might nof be to bad?Theres a chart listed with figure's but i don't really know how right all that equates too.
They'd be nice if they were clear bulb's and a screw connection,but if they are not available and these would do the job i'd probably be happy with something like this.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2Fba9s_1led.htm
There is an option for making screw type bulbs out of leds that we used to do in college years ago. I'll leave out the hot acid part as it isn't that important to what you need.
Back in the day when white leds were $$$$ our friends at NASA were buying them by the box load and sending them to their sites to put into equipment being developed for the agency. A good idea except they tended to buy from suppliers sockets that didn't have led bulbs to fit them.
In fact there wasn't anyone making an led package for regular light sockets. The result was they would buy the bulbs they needed to fit the socket and break the globe and solder an led matrix to the 2 wires inside the bulb (the acid part was used in making the matrix), then recast the globe with water clear resin.
The same could be done here using the led nightlight bulbs (a group of 3 bright white bulbs in a plastic case. remove the cone shaped globe and electronics, solder the leds back to the base,replace the globe with a round globe. and there you go. C-7 sockets are available at most hardware stores or use an old Christmas light set to supply them.
[attachment=1276]
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-19-2009
^
That's an idea but something that is probably beyond what i can do.
If i can get something that'll work OOB that would be my preference,unless someone can make up what's been described,i'd be happy to pay to get em made and sent down here.The only other thing is what diameter these C7 bulbs are,not the screw part but glass itself.I think having the three lil LED's in there would give out plenty of light though and perhaps this is what we need to have a bright enough light?
Nothing can be simple though can it?
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-19-2009
Hows progress on your actual build going? Are you going to suplement actual kit parts?
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - swhite228 - 12-19-2009
(12-19-2009, 08:36 AM)Wombat Wrote: ^
That's an idea but something that is probably beyond what i can do.
If i can get something that'll work OOB that would be my preference,unless someone can make up what's been described,i'd be happy to pay to get em made and sent down here.The only other thing is what diameter these C7 bulbs are,not the screw part but glass itself.I think having the three lil LED's in there would give out plenty of light though and perhaps this is what we need to have a bright enough light?
Nothing can be simple though can it?
Think old style small globe Christmas lites.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-19-2009
No. Not me.
But I am using them as a reference for something else.....
My local hardware store has a good selection of odd sized bulbs. I'll check that out this weekend and report. If they're good I don't mind getting more to send to you guys. I'll make a lis of what's available and powere reqts of each. I'm still thinking small incandescent screw bulbs. I'm not planning on leaving the lights on for extended time anyway so i'm not worried about heat.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 79 Daytona - 12-19-2009
You know i pull my Shuttle out today and started to do some clean up on it and i am still not sure if i am going to light it or not but i kinda want to so i am really looking forward to seeing what you come up with it.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-19-2009
My hope is to find 12V bulbs that look right for the engines and then use LEDs in the cockpit that will also work on 12V. Evan Designs (where i got the LEDs before) sells pre-resistored LEDs for 12V power packs. Then I only need one power supply for everything.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-20-2009
Ok –
Here’s where I am with the lighting.
I found these bulbs today that are about 9/16†diameter (about 14mm for you metric guys). They work on 12V AC and I also found a socket that they fit in that also fits perfectly inside the engine tubes. Unfortunately the store didn’t have any bulbs that run on 9V. They had a bunch more like this and one size smaller that run on a variety of lower voltages (between 2.3 and 6.7) and these were all replacement bulbs for flashlights that work with C and D batteries. They also didn’t have any that run on 18V but did have one that runs on 24V.
These bulbs cost $2 each and the sockets are $3 each.
This is the link to Evans Design’s LEDs for 12V.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html#
I like how the light looks on the engine bell with this light. So I’m thinking I can use the 12V LEDs in the cockpit connected to these lights in the engines. I’d like to have the option to mount the model from either the bottom or side but I’ll probably never mount it from the front or back. If I can run a power lead out of the side and the bottom and just use one at time I think that will work. The one not being used just needs to be capped off under the cover so it doesn’t short out. It will also need a long enough lead to connect to the power supply source.
Phil, If you can figure out a resistor that can step the power down from 18V (2 9V batteries) to 12V then these should work for you.
It’s been a while since I studied electricity in school but found this http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/battery5.htm and it seems you’re right about getting 18V from 2 batteries with a serial connection. In fact, if that diagram is right, couldn’t you just add two 1.5V batteries to the 9V and have the 12 volts?
I can see where this will get difficult if the wires run through the pipe support as I’ve done on other models. I may just wire to the bottom and have the pipe supports for ‘accuracy’s sake’ on the other sides but no lighting connection. I need to think about that some more.
Just for reference, my engine bell is just about 2-7/32†diameter.
Photos of the parts and wired up.
![[Image: GAL356-5.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-5.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-6.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-6.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-7.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-7.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-8.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-8.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-9.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-9.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-10.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-10.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-11.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-11.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-12.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-12.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-13.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-13.JPG)
It was hard to get the exposure right on the camera. I'd say the actual brightness was somewhere between these 2 photos. Pretty bright.
![[Image: GAL356-14.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-14.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-20-2009
That look's pretty good,perhaps a little large in diameter but the effect sound's like it'd be pretty good going on something between the look on thos elast two picture's.I wonder how the smaller bilb look's that you mentioned?Is it much smaller,again i think something around 10mm would be a good size?
You know,i never thought about just adding two 1.5v batt's to the 9V.That'd work also,although they'd probably drain quicker than the 9V,but who cares,it'll work for me without using resistors to get the voltage back using two 9V's.
Thanks mate!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-21-2009
I did a little more experimenting on the lighting. I found some more small lights that also work on 12V. These are halogen bulbs at 5watts and 10 watts.
This is the 10w bulb next to the previous incandescent. You can see it is much brighter. (The exposures is distorted so just keep relative brightness in mind. Both lights appeared much brighter in person). The 10W bulb got hot pretty fast and I'm thinking it will be too hot for turning on for more than about 15 seconds or so especially since the resin of the engine bell is really thin and might melt fast.
![[Image: GAL356-15.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-15.JPG)
This is the 5w bulb. It is still much brighter than the incandescent but didn't get hot as fast but was much warmer than the incandescent. The size, brightness and color of the 5w halogen looks really good. It's much 'whiter' than the incandescent which looks really yellow in comparison. The color seems to match the color of the light as seen on the show pretty well.
![[Image: GAL356-16.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-16.JPG)
Here's the 5w bulb in the engine bell.
![[Image: GAL356-17.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-17.JPG)
.
I also did some work on the armature. I hope Sean, Mike, or Ryan can speak to this issue (I'll post over at RI as well) but I'm coming up with different dimensions than in the photo from Sean.
This is a rough diagram of the layout with dimension in mm. Mine comes to 455mm in length.
![[Image: GAL356-19.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-19.JPG)
Here's with the parts laid out on top. The 2 hardware stores I go to had almost no stock in 3/8" this weekend and this is all they had. for the rear section I'll have to cut pipe to length and tap threads on the ends. The hardware store lets me do this with their equipment but I wanted to lay these out and get some feedback from the group before I do that.
![[Image: GAL356-20.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-20.JPG)
Here are my assumptions on where these go. One is a ?
Please let me know if I'm wrong here.
![[Image: GAL356-18.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-18.JPG)
(12-20-2009, 11:01 PM)Wombat Wrote: That look's pretty good,perhaps a little large in diameter but the effect sound's like it'd be pretty good going on something between the look on thos elast two picture's.I wonder how the smaller bilb look's that you mentioned?Is it much smaller,again i think something around 10mm would be a good size?
You know,i never thought about just adding two 1.5v batt's to the 9V.That'd work also,although they'd probably drain quicker than the 9V,but who cares,it'll work for me without using resistors to get the voltage back using two 9V's.
Thanks mate!!
I'll wire that one up too and take some pics for comparison. I think it will be too small.
I forgot to take some pics of the product packages so you guys know what I bought. I'll do that and add it here for reference.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - erospawn - 12-21-2009
(12-15-2009, 07:03 PM)LastBattlestar Wrote: Nah, I'm running 12V LEDs in my Moldy Crow and B wing and there is basically no heat at all after being on for hours. Worry not, young Phil!
Mike
Its the resistors and the amount of current draw that produces heat..
You want to align the batteries in series in order to get double the voltage... but the key is.. the current, not the voltage is what makes things work. 50,000 volts sounds bad.. but its not.. 30 miliamps sounds miniscule...but its the amount of current to make you let go...
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-21-2009
Here are the bulbs that I sampled above:
![[Image: GAL356-21.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-21.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-22.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-22.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-22-2009
Wow Doug your 'Truckn' along buddy. Looking good on the progress. Keep up the good work mate. I love the light tests youve done. Ive just been playin around with LED's & power this week. Thought it was time to get my head around whats needed. Have fun.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-22-2009
Just playing with alternate lights if fun. I don't have any of the 180 degree LEDS that Phil mentioned but it would be good to see how they look. I don't have any LEDs that will give the effect I'm after.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-22-2009
Yeah the LED's Ive got are straight shooting(best description I can come up with...) meaning they direct light straight out. I actually wanted the 360 ones Phil is talking about. Its really quite basic once you get you head around the basics. Surpriseingly so. Phil, do some home work mate, get a soldering iron & your in business.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-23-2009
Jase,I don't need too,someone's doing it for me!
Doug, i see a winner with the 5W.Man that looks just Frakin great!!
I'm sold on that one mate!!
Thanks also for posting all that for everyone to be able to see the effect's from the different product's!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-23-2009
I nearly have a working 5-point armature. I need to get the last connection figured out then I'll post what pieces i'm using.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-23-2009
WTFG!!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-24-2009
Dougies going for gold! Still no box from Canada Wombat....
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 79 Daytona - 12-24-2009
That sounds COOL Doug can't wait to see it.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-24-2009
Here's my little Christmas present to the group. I got the 5-point armature
working after a little trial and error and I wanted to share what I did in case
it is helpful for anyone doing this type of mounting armature in their shuttle.
First the plans then some issues I encountered with the assembly.
The part list I used is (all 3/8" fittings):
(6) couplings
(3) 1-1/2" nipples
(2) 3" nipples
(1) bronze cross
(1) tee
(1) close nipple (1" nipple)
(1) 6" nipple
You'll also need (not shown) a pipe section for the stand and a floor flange.
Here's the diagram. Note that the rear is to the left and front to the right.
This is looking down (plan view) and the bottom mounting point (off of the
tee) is actually pointing down but shown pointing in the port direction in order
to dimension it.
The long pipe in the back is not labled but is made up of (2) 3" nipples and a
coupling (substitute with a 7" pipe instead).
The cross is bronze because it's the only one I could find. You could probably
use a steel cross but this will probably be a little bigger in size (like the tee)
and you might need to reduce the size of the adjacent nipples to the next
size down. I thought the smallest size was the 'close nipple' but I found out
a 'butt nipple' is smaller and would probably be necessary if you use a steel
cross next to a steel tee.
I used a pipe wrench to tighten all the joints down to get these dimensions
except for the 1-1/2" nipples on the port and starboard couplings. These are
a little loose and are threaded on so the couplings fit just right in the
recesses in the armature plate. Because they are loose, these joints will
definitely need gluing down to the armature plate and the other pipes.
The 2 areas with the red hatching labeled as 'very tight' are just that. I had
to put the pipes in my bench vice and really lean on a big pipe wrench to get
these tightened down to the right dimension.
![[Image: GAL356-23.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-23.JPG)
The pipes aren't perfect and the assembly needed just a little bending to
straighten it out. The front and back pipes were just a bit out of alignment
with the holes. To fix this I added some layers of masking tape in the armature where the port side nipple sat against it until the pipes aligned to the front and back holes.
The fittings are not consistent in size and threads. I recommend a lot of test fitting to make sure yours is working the same as what I'm showing before you glue anything together.
Overall armature.
![[Image: GAL356-24.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-24.JPG)
Front mount point.
![[Image: GAL356-25.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-25.JPG)
Looking in from the cockpit opening.
![[Image: GAL356-26.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-26.JPG)
Rear mount point.
![[Image: GAL356-27.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-27.JPG)
That's it. I hope it is helpful.
Best wishes to everyone here for a happy and safe holiday.
-Doug
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-24-2009
That looks fantastic Doug,and more importantly it's tried and tested for everyone to see.
I know i for reasons i appreciate everything you are putting into this and sharing for everyone to see.This is all a big help for those building up a shuttle.That's nice work and planning along with a good description on the thing's you found while doing the test fitting.
Good work my friend and Merry Christmas to yourself and everyone here!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 79 Daytona - 12-25-2009
I agree with Phil this going to be a big help thanks for posting Doug.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-25-2009
No problem, guys.
Here's some shots with the lights set in place. I just wanted to see them in place to check brightness on the overall model.
Looks spot on to me so I'm going to stick with these lights.
![[Image: GAL356-28.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-28.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-29.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-29.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-30.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-30.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 12-25-2009
I don't think we are gonna get any betta than that.
Look's great,and more importantly very much like the original SS Shuttle.
I give a big thumbs up on that combo mate!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-26-2009
Wow Doug looking good mate. Your just motoring along aren't ya buddy.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 79 Daytona - 12-26-2009
I agree that's looking outstanding Doug!!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 12-26-2009
Doug can you show us pics of how you wire your lighting systems up please? ie:Lights to power, switches, resistors etc?
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 12-27-2009
Don't buy any parts just yet. Sean just posted some new info on RI that will change the front end a bit.
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - dbhs - 01-19-2010
I finally got the armature finalized. I decided to keep the front extending all the way to the front.
Here's the modified diagram for the armature. I changed the coupler in the front to a smooth coupling (referred to as a "merchant coupling") and extended the front in length just a bit so the end of the armature extends into the fitting block to help support the front end.
![[Image: GAL356-31.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-31.JPG)
The cockpit piece needed to be modified a little to make it fit.
![[Image: GAL356-32.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-32.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-33.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-33.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-34.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-34.JPG)
I installed the engine light sockets with epoxy putty.
![[Image: GAL356-35.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-35.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-36.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-36.JPG)
Here's how the bulbs look relative to the engine bells.
![[Image: GAL356-37.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-37.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-38.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-38.JPG)
Added the side plates on these guys.
![[Image: GAL356-39.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-39.JPG)
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - Wombat - 01-20-2010
Looking good there Doug!!
I like what i'm seeing,hope you don't mind me borrowing some of your idea's for my build?
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - JAWS - 01-20-2010
Very nice mate. Excellent work!
RE: BSG Shuttle GAL356 - 427 Cobra - 01-20-2010
Epoxy putty is what I used to make parts with too. Very easy to mix,and form by hand. I can't wait to see this thing lit up!