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StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-20-2010
This is going to be a LONG story, so get ready. . .
This is my second CR Galactica project build, this time an (authorized) commission for a third party. It also grants me the distinction of having built 3 battlestars (not including mockups and prototype structures). That may be a new world record?
Anyway, I have been busy with this plus many other things lately, so sorry about not posting anything sooner. For example, we are relocating out of Seattle and have been looking for a house. That finally came together and we are now in the process of packing to move. Also, the weather is getting ready to turn cold here, so I need to get as much building done as possible in the next few weeks. It's going to be a busy Fall!
This build started with the head section. Before anything could be done, however, a lot of prep work was required. I began by making numerous modifications to the design of the structure. The original build was so complex, it took months to complete just that one section. The number of parts was staggering (over 400 numbered parts, not including duplicates). To make things easier this time, I wanted to streamline it as much as possible.
Special Jigs/Tooling
As an aid in assembling the parts as precisely as possible, I developed a special jig made of machined aluminum. This provided a perfectly level work surface with multiple slots to facilitate bolting parts to the table. Unfortunately, the “T-slots†were too small for standard 5/16 threaded T-slot bolts. Thus, I had to fashion my own hardware using 1/4-20 threaded set screws (i.e. headless bolts) in various lengths plus T-nuts to accomplish the same functionality.
The final table was 15 inches deep by 30 inches wide. It includes four leveling feet at the corners. Overall, it works brilliantly. . .
Work Shop Safety
With a suitable work surface, the next challenge to overcome was work area safety. I spent many, many hours in the shop working on the last CR build. Two of the most important shop concerns are lighting and ventilation. To provide a bright enough work area, I had installed several shop-type fluorescent light fixtures overhead. Because the ceiling in my garage/shop is a standard height of 8 ft, hanging these fixtures meant the bulbs were only about a foot or so from my head.
Well, it turns out fluorescent lights emit a LOT of UV radiation. In fact, there are two types of UV rays -- UV-A and UV-B. The first type are present in natural sunlight, the latter type not so much. Wouldn’t you know it, UV-B rays cause DNA damage and skin cancer. And, typical fluorescent lights crank out large amounts of UV-B rays.
I discovered all this because I was getting sunburned from working in my shop -- even in the middle of Winter! (Remember, these lights are only a foot or so away from my head. Maybe if the ceilings were taller it would not have been as bad.) Once I figured out what was happening, I located UV sleeve filters to fit over all the fluorescent tubes. These were not cheap, but they seem to work great and I no longer get a sunburn from working in the shop. These filters do reduce light output somewhat, but they also provide color correction to turn cold fluorescent tubes into something resembling natural sunlight. In addition, they also help reduce eye strain. Overall, this was a very worthwhile investment.
What interesting problems we Galactica builders have to overcome?! LOL
Ventilated Work Area
The second challenge I had to deal with is one we have discussed here before. The glues and solvents needed for working with both styrene and acrylic are quite toxic. Many modelers routinely use these solvents without being concerned about how it might affect their health. Being short-sighted here, however, can cost you big time in the long run.
I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to use these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is required. Although it is not widely known, the manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is required. These can cost a lot of money.
One solution I had in mind was fashioning some sort of ventilated work booth in a corner of the shop. I searched and searched online but the only examples I could find were custom built for industrial/factory settings. These setups cost many thousands of dollars. It took a LOT of research to come up with a DIY setup that I could use in my small shop. But, after a lot of time and effort, I finally put together something that worked.
As with most projects, there are multiple challenges to overcome. The fan that provides the ventilation must be spark-proof. Since this fan is venting air containing flammable fumes, a standard fan simply will not do. Many people make the mistake of using ordinary fans in their home-brew spray booths because they think the filter will provide some protection. Filters, however, only trap particulate matter in the air. They do not remove solvents. Thus, any ordinary fan can provide a source for ignition and can potentially cause a fire. If you are concentrating the fumes from the solvents in a small area such as a spray booth, the risk intensifies.
Unfortunately, a truly spark-proof fan is an industrial item. I discovered the prices started at about $700 US for such fans. This was WAY out of my budget for this project. In the end, I discovered an online post where someone recommended the use of marine bilge blowers. These are specifically designed to ventilate the engine compartments on a boat where gasoline vapor may be present in the air. Since gasoline is about as flammable as you can get, anything rated for use in such an environment would be more than sufficient for my needs. But, these blowers run on 12V so that presented new challenges in terms of wiring (see below).
I wanted a booth that I could work inside while gluing and have the fumes safely carried away. This meant I would be using it for hours at a time (unlike a typical spray booth). I chose to make it out of clear acrylic to let all available light in and not require any extra lights. The final dimensions were 4 feet wide, about 3 feet tall, and 2 feet deep. This is what was needed to accommodate any major section of the Galactica.
With the booth itself designed, I opted to use dust removal gear for extracting the fumes. I found the largest dust collection port available -- called the “Big Gulp†-- and designed it into the back of the cabinet. (In fact, I used two of them.) I then created custom brackets and hose connections to the bilge blowers. Each blower uses a standard 4 inch hose. To route the air outside, I came up with a custom adapter that combined the two 4-inch hoses into one large 8-inch ventilator hose. All this was mocked up in 3D using Rhino as the final design ended up being rather complex.
The final step was the wiring. Again, the idea was to create a spark-free environment. This meant adding anti-spark measures to the electrical circuitry. (Isn’t it amazing how complicated projects can get? All this just to suck out some fumes. . .) I wired in diodes as needed to keep the relays and switches from arcing. Even though I studied electrical engineering in college and I had a good bit of experience with 12 volt wiring, I had gotten quite rusty over the years, so it took a good bit of research to figure out all the specs that were needed for this project.
The final step was a heavy-duty power supply. I ordered a 20-amp unit and hooked everything up. The test occurred on a hot summer day. Each blower is rated at 240 cubic feet per minute and draws a hefty 6 amps. With a 20-amp supply, I figured there was more than enough capacity. But, the power supply got way too warm to be safe. This was because I used a traditional linear power supply with heatsinks. Since everything is made so cheaply these days, they did not include a fan to keep it cool.
I did some further research to find a quality power supply and learned about Astron Corporation. These supplies are rated for continuous use and are favored by amateur radio operators. They are not cheap, but you definitely get what you pay for. I ordered a 30-amp switching power supply with a built-in fan and both volt and amp meters. This one works perfectly and powers the booth for hours on end without getting over-taxed. In fact, the booth is so powerful, I often just use it with one fan at a time.
To make the booth even more efficient, I designed a flip-up front that reduces the front opening by about 1/3. With the door in the down position, the ventilation is increased for greater air flow. With the door up, I get more access through a wider front opening, but less air is drawn across the work surface because the opening is larger.
Construction Finally Begins
Like I said, it took a LOT of prep work just so I could start construction on this project. With a safe work environment, I am able to spend hours at a time in the shop in relative comfort. I no longer get headaches from the fumes and I don’t have to take frequent breaks to get fresh air. The work booth works great for gluing, soldering, and even painting. All that’s needed to turn it into a spray booth are furnace filters over the air intakes (plus something to protect the inside from overspray).
Construction commenced when a very large box arrived containing all the parts for both the head and neck sections. I started by assembling a custom-designed jig, then I started building the core portions of the head structure. A pipe sleeve fits over the round pipe and provides a means for attaching the bulkheads. This part has been streamlined from last time. The mouth trenches, however, are still complex because they are tricky to build no matter what. The mouth is not straight but crooked to match the character of the original. I had to find a way to build it on a flat surface, yet maintain the correct curvature. Also, the vertical wall inside each trench has to be drilled through for routing fiber optics. I chose to make this from styrene as acrylic would be too hard to drill. But, styrene transmits some light. This meant I had to paint the back side of the entire mouth trench to prevent potential light leaks.
Like I said, there are a LOT of little details in this project!
The last step in building the core structure was making the removable top hatch. This is a rather complicated but effective design that integrates the fiber optics into the hatch. Thus, when you lift off the hatch, the fibers are not in your way and it can be completely removed from the rest of the head section (unlike the original). A separate LED bulb and wire harness are hidden inside. To remove the hatch, all you have to do is unplug a 2-wire harness.
Once the core structure was complete, I could begin test fitting the skins. This is where I am at right now. The top skin is being fitted as we speak. Even though the top is divided into four separate sections, I am taping all the skins together to fit them as a unit. Once fitted, they will be carefully glued in place. Then, it will be time to start work on the bottom.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - Richard_2001 - 09-20-2010
Charles,
Looking good there! I really like the head hatch design and incorporated it into my build plans as well :-)
Doing your move is gonna slow down this build a lot unless you can get it all done in 5 weeks hehehehehehe Now that would be a record!
Richard
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 09-20-2010
Wow Charles you have been busy. It must have taken you a week just to type that post! Lol! Thanks for the update mate. Its always an eye opener. That build looks so clean & beautiful Charles. Thanks.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-20-2010
"... Kent may seem like just a mild-mannered reporter, but listen, not only does he know how to treat his editor-in-chief with the proper respect, not only does he have a snappy, punchy prose style, but he is, in my forty years in this business, the fastest typist I've ever seen." Perry White
My way of jokingly saying I type really fast. Now, if I could only learn to build like that. . . LOL
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - 427 Cobra - 09-21-2010
(09-20-2010, 07:43 AM)star-art Wrote: This is going to be a LONG story, so get ready. . .
The second challenge I had to deal with is one we have discussed here before. The glues and solvents needed for working with both styrene and acrylic are quite toxic. Many modelers routinely use these solvents without being concerned about how it might affect their health. Being short-sighted here, however, can cost you big time in the long run.
I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to use these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is required. Although it is not widely known, the manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is required. These can cost a lot of money.
That is completely untrue! Whoever gave you the you information you have was totally wrong! An organic filter respirator is what you need. I've been an industrial painter, and I've used both types of masks. The air supplied mask has incoming air from the environment around it. The only way you're going keep the air from being contaminated by chemical fumes is to isolate it from the work area which is next to impossible in a small work area that you have available. Air supplied masks are for particulate - not fume type applications. For them to say a vapor filter type mask is not sufficient is like me saying that the oceans aren't sufficient for aquatic life! It's ridiculous, and self defeating for them to say that, especially when they sell a product intended for public use!
I've used, and I still own the 3M brand organic charcoal activated filter respirator given to my by Stan Geiglein (pronounced: Gigline) over fifteen years ago! This has charcoal filters that absorb chemical odors, and particulates. It's designed for this purpose, and it does it very well! This is made to absorb the most toxic of fumes, and chemicals in particulate (sprayed) form without harming the wearer. It has two filter cartridges with two particulate filters with postive, and negative neoprene washers that act as internal barriers to protect the wearer from harmful chemical inhalation. A regular dust mask isn't designed for this type of usage, and isn't considered a respirator by any standard.
Charcoal is naturally absorbant to keep you from smelling even the most powerful chemical odors. This coupled with the cotton particulate filters will keep you healthy - I'll stake my reputation, and everything I know on it! I've used it I don't know how many times when working with the painters union, or at home, and I have no ill effects on my health, or on my body, and I don't smoke! None of the other people I know who have used these have had any health related issues from all the chemicals they used, and most of them do smoke. Acrylic glues are just acetate, and acetone for the most part, and are not nearly as toxic as M.E.K. = Methyl Ethyl Ketone - the main component of lacquer thinner. Xylene (pronounced Zy-leen) is one of the most powerful chemicals known to man, and it's also used in certain chemicals used in warfare to cause the most damage to lungs, and skin as it burns upon contact as it's so caustic.
I've used this without problems as long as I wear my respirator, protective gloves, and goggles. Some companies call a paper mask with a small cartridge in the center a respirator mask, but this is not correct terminology, as they even admit that it's only for light usage, and not for painting with harsh chemicals. These won't protect your health/lungs, but a TRUE organic filter respirator will. These have been in use for over fifty years, and no one has suffered ill effects from using one.
Air supplied respirators are about $80.00 - 3M respirators are around $14.00 - $20.00 depending who you buy from. Which one is right for your application versus which one is more expensive. Luckily enough, the one you truly need is the less expensive of the two. You want one that is of the most benefit to you healthwise. Catridges can be bought for around $14.00 a set at most home improvement stores. I hope that this will help you if you ever need to do some painting, and need something that is portable, and safe as well as economical. Just remember to take the cellophane wrap off the cartridges before use - one of our guys didn't and wondered why it wasn't working!
(Poor Gordy - nice guy, but a little flighty)On the other hand: I wish I could've been around when you were looking to make a paint booth. I made one with a buddy of mine when we needed something practical, and cheap. We took a regular box fan and put it in the cieling of his garage next to the vent pipe for the old heater we removed since it didn't work anymore, and wrapped visqueen (plastic weather sheet) around the perimeter of it, then stapled to the rafters. I don't recommend this for all applications, but it worked it a bind for a quick project we needed to paint without getting dust in it. You can also make a makeshift booth from 2 x 4s' and plastic sheet stapled to them for a quickie fix. Just use drywall screws to hold the 2 x 4s' together so it can be taken apart later.
A square made of 2 x 4s' - 4' feet by 4' feet by six feet high with four 2 x 4s' centered across from each other to make a retangular shape screwed to another 2 x 4' frame made with four a 4' foot box with 2 x 4s' (one over lapped on top the other) on the top of the upright 2 x 4s' with a hole drilled into them to hang something from. Drape your plastic over it, then staple it to the 2 x 4 frame to secure it. This will allow you light through it, and it will keep dust out. Simple, but effective, and no real mechanical know how to build it. All you need is a circular saw, or hand saw, a stapler, a drill and a 1" inch drill bit. When finished, this should measure 4' x 4' x 6' high. Allow a slit along one side to enter - that would be embarassing to build it, and not be able to get into it!
~ Cobra Chris
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-21-2010
I appreciate your input. I was simply presenting the facts as I know them, based on my experience. Like I said, the manufacturer of WeldOn states that an air-supplied respirator is required and a paint type/organic vapor cartridge does NOT provide protection. I did not know this until after I had been using it for years. Then, I found it in some safety data sheet online and I was pretty concerned.
However, with that said, it appears they have recently reformulated their product this year and the new formula is referred to as "Low VOC" so it may no longer be as toxic. I do know they reformulated #3 a while back and I was told by a friend who builds professionally that newer stuff doesn't work as well so he switched to #4. Apparently, #4 is now reformulated as well. The old formula stuff I've been using for the last 6 years is noxious. I used a quality 3M respirator and I could smell it anyway. I could smell it with a fresh cartridge and it only got worse over time. I keep my cartridges sealed in a Ziplock bag when not in use as recommended by the manufacturer. I got headaches from exposure and it left me feeling light headed. When I read the MSDS, I realized I was not properly protected from the fumes.
The bottom line is, when you use this stuff for hours at a time, several days a week like I do, you need to take precautions. Perhaps I need to worry about this more than the average hobbyist since I have a lot more exposure to it than most people. But, I am not going to risk my health any more than necessary.
BTW, I looked up air-supplied respirators and found setups costing around $2000. The mask itself is not that much as you say, but then you need the air supply and all the equipment that goes with it! This is not the sort of thing you want to scrimp on as you are directly breathing whatever it puts out.
Also, isn't MeK and/or Xylene in styrene cements? I seem to recall one, the other, or both listed as ingredients in the tube type cements we used to use growing up. Nasty stuff! Hopefully that is changing, but we need to be aware of what we are breathing when we work on models.
As to paint spray booths, there is some debate online about using ordinary fans. It is true that there aren't a lot of reports about fires resulting from these. However, it is a fact that professional/industrial setups use spark-proof or spark-resistant fans. If you think it is safe to use an ordinary box fan in your setup, I won't argue about it. Just keep in mind, an ordinary fan makes little sparks inside the motor. IF the solvent level in the air passing over it ever gets concentrated enough, it could ignite. That doesn't mean it will, but I simply take a "better safe than sorry" approach.
PS I located one of the warnings from the manufacturer. I am assuming this applies to the "classic" formulation. See attached.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - 427 Cobra - 09-21-2010
I understand what you're saying, but these people have never used a proper organic filter resipirator - not a chemical actived cartridge, but charcoal. There are different types of cartridges for different applications. You'd have to go to an industrial supply company to get the heavier charcoal filters with the red stripe on them - not the blue version, which is only for light applications. I haven't had to replace these, since it's been a few years since I've worn my mask. If your mask doesn't keep out fumes - it's either defective (a hole, or leak) , or your using the wrong filter cartridges for the job. I've used Weld-on cement with my respirator, and never smelled the fumes from it, but I also didn't have facial hair when using it either. We had one guy at the local # 469 that had a full beard, and he wanted to keep it, but they told him to shave it off because it wouldn't provide a proper seal. Some people don't fit these masks as well as they're designed to, so it may not work as effectively as it should. However, this shouldn't be a concern to most people, as it does what it should for most. A thick mustache, or goatee will also hinder the proper use of any respirator no matter what type of cartridge it has in it. Also, a loose fitting respirator won't provide a proper seal either. Be sure your mask is tight fitting, but not restrictive to the point of discomfort.
Xylene, and M.E.K. are only reserved for paint removers. This stuff is too hot chemically, and too toxic for glue use. Tulol as known as Toluene, or oil of mustard is what Testors uses in their glue. This is what you'll see in most styrene based adhesives. This acts like PVC glue which doesn't join two surfaces together, but it melts the plastic much like a weld. This makes for a stronger bond on broad surfaces, but tiny parts will still be delicate because they're so small. Super glues bond to the surface of the part it's applied to rather than bonding to it molecularly. Xylene is not something that I would put into glue as it's only formulated to remove paint - it can't be used for anything else, as it flashes (dries) off so quickly. It evaporates much like acetone, but it's much hotter, and can only be put into metal tubes as it melts plastic. M.E.K. is the same way - too hot for most uses, and it's highly toxic to the nervous system. These chemical agents are only formulated for industrial use, and not for sale, or use in most household products. You can buy it from home improvement stores, but you won't want to use it, except for removing epoxy, or polyurethane paints used in automotive, and furniture factories. No matter what the manufacturer states on their labels, an air supplied respirator is NOT going to help in a small environment as the one you're working in! You need an outside air supply with the proper filters for this. Most household adhesives are not for all day, or everyday use, so you need to be careful, and aware of what you use, and how long you use it. Air supplied masks aren't respirators, as they don't cover only your nose, or mouth area, but your entire head. These are used in industrial sandblasting, or abrasive blasting as it's usually said. These offer more protection than a respirator, as the abrasive comes out at 300 feet per second. This mask is to keep the particles from hitting your eyes. The air is only supplied as the mask goes around your entire head, and there's no breathing hole.
Chemical sensitisation is one factor that you have to keep in mind when using chemicals in liquid form, or even in a dust, or powder form. This can cause all kinds of health problems, and they can ruin your clothing. Just be careful, and ever conciencous about what you're using, and the duration of how long you use it. Chemical cartridges are only good for a few days even when new. If you use it all day - this will deplete any cartridge in about three to four days. I've kept mine in plastic, and the charcoal in it stopped working after about four days. I only used it three times in that span, and only for about seventy minutes each time. This stuff doesn't last forever, and any cartridge left, or stored in the same area the fumes are in will also contaminate the cartridges as well. Just be careful, and remember to do the positive, and negative air pressure check. If you smell chemicals even with new cartridges, and all the mask parts tightened to manufacturers specs, and if you don't have any facial hair to obstruct proper use - the integrity of your mask has been comprimised, which means you'll have to throw it away! Most of these are soft silicone/rubber, or 100% silicone for ease of use, and to conform to the features of individual faces.
I don't recommend using harsh chemicals all day unless it's totally neccessary where nothing else will help, or can be substituted. In your case, I'd use superglue as this is what I use all day, and I don't have ill effects from it. I cap it after everytime I apply it to the parts I need to join. I don't need to wear a mask of any kind, as I'm usually only scratch making parts, and glue is mostly an afterthought to join things together. I'm more careful about what I use chemically speaking since I know what's in most household chemicals, and I don't get them on my skin, or inhale them either by accident, or intentionally. I guess you'll have to use your best judgement on what to do when you can't paint in your booth. If you can't use a booth to paint something in - use a respirator at least. It may not be a "Be all - end all" of breathing equipment, but barring the use of an oxygen respirator for divers, and firefighters - it's the most protection that you can buy without drastic measures, or bulky equipment. It sure as hell beats a paper mask which amounts to almost nothing - it's kind of like pulling your T-shirt over your face.
How to conduct a positive, and negative pressure test:
With both hands over the filters of your respirator - check by inhaling. If you have them completely blocked, and air still comes in - make sure that all parts are secure tightly before doing anything else. If you can't breathe in, and the filters are tight, the neoprene washers inside are working correctly.
To conduct a negative air flow test: cover the bottom aireator with the palm of your hand. If you can feel, or hear air escaping, tighten all parts, and retest. If you don't feel air escaping, the neoprene washer inside is working correctly.
If you feel air entering while checking the positive pressure test, or air escaping while checking the negative pressure test - it's most likely a loose fitting part. If you've tightened all the parts, and replaced the neoprene washers, this means that the integrity of the mask has been comprimised, and is therefore rendered useless - throw it away! Before tossing your respirator check for small imperfections, or cracks/splits anywhere along the seal on the sides, and toward the edges of the mask itself. This will help you determine the shape its' in before deciding to do anything else. There are replacement parts for any defective seals, or plastic cartridge encasements. You can get new filters, and cartridges at most paint stores, or better department stores. When you change cartridges, change your filters too - these will hold chemical odors as well!
~ Cobra Chris
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-22-2010
I think we've now pretty much covered it.
My ventilated work booth pretty much solves all these problems for me. With just one fan on (i.e. half power) I can glue without wearing any sort of respirator and I can't smell a thing. The fumes are directed outside and well away from the shop. Same goes for soldering. Normally, the solder smoke/fumes aim straight for my face no matter which way I move, now they go away from me. I can also paint using brushes as well as clean brushes in paint thinner without getting any of the fumes.
It's really great when applying putty as both the 2-part polyester stuff I use (recommended by the pros) and my air-dry lacquer-based touch-up putty are both rather nasty smelling and pretty toxic to breathe.
All this may be a bit of an "extreme" solution, sure, but it works great! Would I recommend this for everyone? Maybe not, as it was a lot of trouble and not a small expense to build. But, I use it nearly every day and it's become one of the most valuable pieces of equipment in my shop.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - 427 Cobra - 09-22-2010
Believe me - a paint booth is the way to go! If I had my choice, I wouldn't hesitate to use that over putting something on my face! The paint booth I was describing is only for spraying things you don't want to get dust, dirt, etc. in. It's just a cheap temporary alternative to buying something to use all the time. I'd only wear a respirator for that, since it doesn't allow for ventilation. It would do for spraying a smooth finish over something until the paint dries enough to hang dry in a shed, or garage.
On the soldering iron thing - why does it ALWAYS have to fume towards your face, and right into your eyes?!! Been there - done that! Even if I was outside it would blow right into my face as if it had radar!
I just don't get it.... That booth is rocking, and I just wish I had somewhere to put something like it, but I don't have a garage, or a basement.
This makes my life a lot more difficult than you guys realise. I need a new home - this one's too small! I have a card table that I work on -other than working in my friends' garage, but that's just not feasable. This only adds to the dreariness of my work situation. It's also why I can't become motivated to get anything done. I'll figure it out later. Just keep rocking on with the paint booth, and show us what you've been doing with it. I'll definately be watching even if I don't leave any more comments - I need the inspiration. ~ Cobra Chris
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 09-22-2010
Yeah Charles definately doesn't muck around. Thanks Charles for your insights.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-22-2010
Thanks!
With the core structure now complete, skinning commenced today. The bottom trench (redesigned) went together very smoothly and is done except for the KoolShade vent. This is the only major section of the skin to be made from acrylic. Most of the rest of the head will now be skinned in styrene. That will make it easier to apply the skins, as well as reduce costs.The top skin is already test-fitted and is ready for gluing. I still need to build the forward lower trench and install the upper and lower "lips" to finish the mouth trenches. Lots still left to do, but I should have most of it wrapped up within a week or so. I'll see if I can take some pics tomorrow. . .
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 09-22-2010
Yeah pictures Charles lots of pictures. We're picture crazy around here...
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - kbilly - 09-23-2010
Hey Charles, Wow!!! This build will be great, and is already off to a great start, it looks amazing!!.
I like that quote "If I had 8 hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend 6 hours sharpening the axe". I know how many years you've spent researching and building the Galactica - from the pictures you've posted you appear to now have it down to a fine art.
Glad to see you on this board. I still miss the days of your board, but have to say that this one feels quite similar. I like the ethos here, everyone helps out where they can and the off-topic crap is kept to a minimum. I'll watch your build with interest.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 09-23-2010
Thanks.
I'm hoping practice makes perfect. I've spent many years trying to learn the skills needed to design and build structures from scratch. It's been a long journey but I have enjoyed every step. My hope is now that I am starting to get the hang of it I'll be able to get a lot more building done on a number of different projects.Here are the latest pics of my progress on the head section. Today I polished up the bottom trench. It is done minus the KoolShade vent on the port underside. These panels are solid 1/8 inch plex with beveled edges for near perfect seams. Little or no putty should be required and it will be further trimmed out with Plastruct extruded rails. By making this in acrylic, it helps tie the bulkheads together in order to provide extra rigidity. It is rock solid and should hold up well.
The forward lower trench (in 0625 styrene) has also been fabricated and test fit in place. The sub-structure (plex) is complete and I am ready to install the trench panels themselves.
I'll be on the road tomorrow so no more progress until this weekend. . .
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 09-23-2010
Wow that is awsome!
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 10-02-2010
Lots of progress to report. The head is being skinned and it is going very smoothly. I am extremely pleased with how well the styrene panels are working out. They are much easier to deal with than the plex skins used on the first build.
The head is nearly complete at this point. The bottom is completely done. I started there as this is probably the hardest part. First, I finished up the bottom forward trench. Then, I fabricated and installed the KoolShade vent using authentic vintage stock (extremely rare and expensive today!).
With the trenches done, I could put the large "chin" panels on the bottom of the head. These are quite tricky to install. The styrene is not nearly as stiff as plex, so a good bit of structural reinforcement is necessary. I designed backer panels that get laminated to the inside surface of each chin panel. Whenever you do this, it's a good idea to add weep holes to the part to ensure an even glue bond. (You'll notice I do that sort of thing a lot to enhance structural integrity throughout the build.) They are further stiffened by the addition of internal stringers and they also get welded securely to each bulkhead using 1/4" square plex rods.
With the bottom skinned, I then machined the ends of the lower trench flush with the back of the head and installed the bottom forward trench rear walls followed by styrene cladding for the "cheek" panels on the very back of the head. I finished up by installing the "lower lips" to trim out the mouth trenches on either side.
At this point, it was time to start working on the top. I pieced the entire top skin together (already test-fitted from before) and installed it as a unit. The front section has to remain unattached for now in order to install the fiber optics inside the head. The rear center portion is part of the removable top hatch. So, the only parts of the top skin that can be glued down right now are the two rear pieces on either side of the hatch.
With those in place, I could finish up the hatch assembly itself. The clearance was very tight and the fit was perfect. (The hatch sub-structure even has little levelers all around so it can be made to sit perfectly flush with the top skin! I tried to think of everything. . .)
Next, it was time to start installing the side skins. I got the starboard skin in place using special clips I designed to make the process easier. The bottom of the skin was stiffened by adding plex bar stock on the inside of the lower edge. It was all quite solid and went together well.
The final touch will be the eye sockets. These are a royal PITA to build with this design, so I saved them for last. The top hatch, one of the coolest features of this particular version, has one drawback -- the structure blocks access to the inside of the head where the eye sockets go. Thus, there is no way to get at the underside of the skin when building them.
The skin itself starts out flat but it's curved when installed so you can't really pre-build the eye sockets on the back side of the skin before it goes on (well, maybe you could but that would be real tricky). Putting in the chin panels on the bottom requires full internal access, so the chin gets put on before the side skin. This means there's no access from below. Bottom line: Once the side skin goes on, all you have is a hole for the eye socket and no other significant access. This requires installing the sockets from the outside. Talk about a challenge!
The only way to proceed is with a lot of patience. I'm not really sure how I did this before, but somehow I figured it out. So far, I've fabricated the starboard eye socket (no pictures yet) and I'll polish it up over the weekend. With luck, the rest of the head should be complete very soon.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 10-02-2010
Wow that is one super complex construction you have dseigned Charles. looks scary. Nice work though. Thanks for the update.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - 427 Cobra - 10-02-2010
I see you use those little clips for projects too. I use them for holding convex shapes while the glue dries. I used these when I was making a Terminator endoskeleton arm. I wish I could get myself motivated to get my projects as far as you have. This looks very scientific, almost like a NASA model. Very cool - thanks for sharing these pics.
~ Cobra Chris
![[Image: PictureorVideo3979.jpg]](http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/ss229/Photostaff/Reference%20photos/PictureorVideo3979.jpg)
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - LastBattlestar - 10-03-2010
I only just saw this thread- very informative. I've been airbrushing the APC tonight in my spare bedroom-converted-to-hobby room and wish that I could set up shop properly with spray booth! I just open the outside door to the balcony and point the fan out. It draws quite a bit of paint fumes/dust out, but what else can I do with a rental property? The worst I experience are rattle cans, acrylic paints, CA, resin dust and solder, so I throw on a filter mask for the rattle cans, dust and soldering. Sometimes.
The Gal head looks really sharp Charles, nice job. I hear you on the eye boxes: they are incredibly hard to build in. I still didn't get mine quite right (the rear walls don't lean out enough), but was surprised at the difficulty. Good idea on the lid/lighting module. I'm not planning the lighting stuff yet, but did envisage a plug-in harness for it. The engineering challenges are immense on this project and it's cool to see the different ways we all tackle them for the same end result.
BTW, nice to see your conversion to styrene.
It's my absolute favourite material. I just love building things from those big, virgin white sheets!Mike
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 10-03-2010
Yeah, this is a frighteningly complex build. Remember, the original was built directly on the armature and that was hard enough. This one is "modular" meaning it is a separate unit that can be mounted on or taken off the armature as needed. This makes it easier to detail but complicates both the head structure and the armature design. As a result, the CR head section will never be offered as any sort of "kit." We agreed it is just too complex. With so many parts and so much complexity, there are just too many potential pitfalls. Imagine providing all these parts and then having to deal with sending out replacements when things get screwed up during construction. This is why the head can only be offered fully built.
The rest of the ship is easier in comparison. But, with that said, the engine section gives this one a run for its money. What looks like a simple box becomes almost equally complex by the time you design it as a modular structure (i.e. can be removed from the armature) and then add all those angled panels on the front, a built-in ventilation system, high-tech lighting, removable lid, and modular/removable rear thruster modules.
As for materials, I feel styrene is definitely easier to work with. But, it has its disadvantages, too. For one thing, it's far more fragile. The plex skins on the first build were hard as a rock and not easily damaged. A slip of the knife, etc. was no big deal. These styrene skins are easily dinged and scratched up. A wayward drop of solvent has the effect of "acid blood" from one of Jim Cameron's aliens, LOL. I'm a perfectionist, so I cringe when stuff like that happens.
On the upside, it's very easy to repair any trouble spots. The stuff sands easily and cleans up very nice. It glues very securely to plex using solvents and to resin using CA. I have the option of using solvent for regular bonding of styrene-to-styrene joints (strong and flexible) or CA when I need an instant bond (quick grab but creates brittle joints). So, yeah, I do like working with it.
PS The KoolShade vent is not just for looks -- it is a fully functional air intake. One challenge is light blocking. The material allows air to flow but does not totally block out any light source behind it. As a result, I had to design and build a box structure behind it to help prevent any light leaks.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - dbhs - 10-03-2010
Fantastic thread, Charles. I skimmed through the whole thing just now and have a ton of questions. I'll read it a bit more thoroughly first.
My shop has a small vent with a gravity-closing louver on the outside wall. I just need to swap out the fan for one better suited to venting flammable vapors so I can hook up a spray booth to it. Right now it just has a fan with the motor centered on the opening. It was set up by the previous owner for venting soldering fumes. He was a stained glass artist.
I was reading through your book earlier today as well. I'm going through each section one by one so I don't miss anything as there's lots of good details and tips throughout. I like how you incorporated the drafting basics, linework, dimensioning graphics into the book. These basics are essential.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - Cylon-Knight - 10-03-2010
The black sections on those last pics are neat... looks like a "stealth Battlestar"
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 10-03-2010
Thanks! Keep in mind, soldering fumes/smoke reportedly contains acids that can attack surfaces. These fumes should be filtered before they enter the airstream. Same goes for particulates such as paint sprays. To use a booth like this one for spraying or soldering, install something like furnace filters over the openings. I have not yet done this but I will before I do any extensive soldering work in it. If I use it for painting, I'll cut and fit some white panels to the inside to protect the clear acrylic from getting paint on it. (If that were to happen, I would lose some of the light coming into the booth.)
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 01-04-2011
Wow, it's been a long time (way too long). I have been busy moving to a different area about 4 hours away from where I lived for nearly the last 10 years. It's good to be out of the city and into the country once again. The new place has dedicated shop space, something I've been wanting for a long time.
Now, we still have a long way to go before we're settled in, so I can't get back to work just yet. But, I'm still alive and kicking. Also, I plan to get online via Skype this week. It will be great being able to talk to folks on the other side of the world without running up a huge phone bill.
The build, as it sits right now, is the head section is complete. The neck and engine section parts are cut and ready to go. I'm still setting up the new shop, but hope to be back to work this month. It's pretty frigid here at the moment, but my new shop space is insulated, so it will be practical to heat. If I'm lucky, I may get some work done without having to wait for Spring to arrive.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 06-27-2011
After a long hiatus, I have completed my move and set up a new shop. Things should be progressing more rapidly from here on out. I put the finishing touches on the neck section this week. It's very difficult to photograph because of the black color and glossy surface. It will get rubbed down to a satin finish later before it's delivered.
As I'm going along, I am remembering just how long it took me to build the last one. There are many details to attend to everywhere. Plus, I am juggling two battlestar projects at the same time right now.
The neck section is actually very tricky to build -- much more so than it looks. A surprising amount of engineering had to go into what on the outside appears to be just a simple box. Yet, every intersection is at an angle, and almost nothing meets at 90 degrees. This requires taking it very slow and triple checking everything at each step along the way.
There are probably more fiber optics in this module than anywhere else on the ship so gaps and holes had to be included in order to run them later. This required plotting out every single fiber run in the 3D computer model before the first part could be cut. Plus, the top is removable and so there is a need for some sort of support shelf for it plus screws to hold it down and some way to ensure it's all level. To make things even more difficult, two screws for securing the top hatch of the head are also present in the lid for the neck. It is surprisingly complex inside there.
It turned out very well though and this section is now ready to go on the armature for test fitting with the head and main body. Next up, I'll be building the engine section. I'm waiting on the arrival of a few key parts so I can get that started.
PS What looks like curvature or warping in the pics is barrel distortion from the camera lens. Everything is straight and flat!
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - Wombat - 06-27-2011
The only thing that would make that look better is if it was sitting on my bench!! LOL
Nice work and a bit of a prelude to some of what i have ahead of myself.This is as you mentioned is a pretty complex area when you see how it's built up.From the outside you'd never know just how much goes into this one area,but it's quite a lot.
The finished section looks great,really hope i can do as good a job here with mine.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - darkimmitator - 06-28-2011
Incredible workmanship Charles . Impressively clean and sharp work indeed !!!!!
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 07-03-2011
Ello! man I been missing some stuff. Nice work Charles. Look forward to seeing more from you & Mr Wombat.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 07-26-2011
I'm juggling two major builds so I'm going back and forth between them. I've been busy working on another head section build that can be seen here. This is the most complicated part of the entire ship and takes a lot of time and effort to complete.
The engine section, however, is a close second in terms of complexity. While the outer shape appears far more simple, on the inside this structure includes a removable lid, built-in ventilation system, and high-tech lighting. In addition, to make the detailing process easier, the rear thruster openings are built as a removable module. All this complicates the design quite a bit.
I got started on the engine section for this build over the weekend and this is the progress so far. Before getting too far along, I wanted to pre-install the vintage KoolShade vents on the sides. This stuff is a bit of a pain to work with. It's very tricky to cut, it likes to unravel like loose threads on a garment after it's cut, and there's really no satisfactory way of attaching it to anything.
The only option in this circumstance is to use drops of CA glue to secure it in place. Unfortunately, that cannot be done without making a bit of a mess. Also, for some reason, when the CA cures it turns white! I don't know why, but it must be a reaction with the finish on the KoolShade.
The only way I could get this to work was to touch up the KoolShade with flat black paint after it was glued in. While this does not look absolutely perfect, I have to remember this entire area will be hidden in deep shadow and visible only if you were to shine a flashlight into the engine trench. Also, parts will be covering these vents and some paint may get in there as well during finishing. So, in the end it will look just fine.
BTW, the vent as it appears here is not exactly like the original. Back then, they put KoolShade on the inside of the engine box to block light from getting through the holes in the sides. They cut giant pieces that covered the entire side panels on the inside. This simply is not practical today since vintage KoolShade is so hard to find and it now costs $50 per sq ft.
My replica engine section does not have working vents in the sides anyway. Rather, it draws air through the waist vent and out the thruster openings. Thus, the side vents were not needed. But, in the interest of making it look as authentic as possible, I created "dummy vents" in the side panels. These will be visible when you look into the engine trenches to appear very much like the original.
My side panels are made from two layers of 1/8 black acrylic laminated together. I cut holes in the outer layer but not the inner layer. This creates the impression of a vent. To complete the illusion, I installed KoolShade in each opening.
Like I said, it's not a 100% match to the original. Once it's trimmed out, however, it really looks the part.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 07-30-2011
Moving along. A huge box arrived yesterday with parts for another engine section build (in addition to this one) and included a few missing pieces for this build. Most notably, the resin thruster openings for the back end are finally here. While I designed these for the model now on display in the Science Fiction Museum, I've never actually had the raw castings in my possession before.
I did a quick test fit just to see how they went together. The resin parts need some cleaning up, and there is minor distortion typical of such castings that needs adjusting. But, overall, they look like parts that were manufactured in a factory. I'm very pleased with how they turned out.
I took the main engine box off the jig and secured the acrylic pipe sleeve permanently in place. Work has also started on the front end. Finally, I built the sub-structures for the side boxes. These will get skinned in 1/16" black acrylic prior to final installation.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - padawan-builder - 07-31-2011
Hey Charles,
Long time. Great to see you at work again. These builds are amazing. The engineering that went into the G in its current form is just incredible. You should be proud.
I can't help but wonder what a complete kit would run if it were bare bones? No electronics, no parts, just what was necessary for the main body? Doubt, I have the resources, but can't hurt to ask.
Again, incredible piece of engineering. I will be fun watching it assembled.
Mel
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 07-31-2011
He Mel! Great to hear from you. Shoot me an e-mail. . .
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - Wombat - 08-02-2011
There looks to be some fine engineering that has gone into this section also,like all of it really. It looks pretty basic from the outside when it's done but theres a lot to do on the inside to achieve that look with this design. I see more of the same again really as i've seen with my head build up. The person getting this section will be very happy with the standard you set yourself when doing these commissions. Least they should be and if they ain't ya can send it to me! LOL
Looking really good there,nice clean work!
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 08-03-2011
Thanks! Phil, I got your missing head parts in so I will soon be back on that and I will also be starting your engine box shortly.
All in all, this section really gives the head section a run for its money in terms of complexity of construction. It is taking me almost as long to build. The hardest part is the sloping front section with all the angles, and the thruster module in the rear.
In fact, I just got the resin castings for the engine openings for the first time and they are proving to be a bit of a challenge. It is standard for resin parts to shrink a bit and also warp. This has nothing to do with the quality, it's just par for the course when working with resin.
Well, this build is so precise that the tolerances are really tight. I've been wrestling with the engine thruster castings to get everything to fit. Even being off 1/32 of an inch can cause issues and when you have resin castings this big, they will tend to be out a good bit more than that.
The biggest challenge is the fact you really need to assemble these castings to get them lined up and fitted. But, they are designed to be split into pieces as this makes detailing the inside of each engine opening as easy as possible. So, I am trying to get them lined up and test fitted without permanently assembling them. It's proving to be really tricky. But, I think I have it figured out. So, there will be another update soon.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 08-04-2011
After a bit of a wrestling match with some massive resin parts, I have completed the thruster module. This is a removable assembly containing all the engine openings for the ship. It is removable to make the job of detailing the inside of the openings much easier. Some details are already molded into the castings.
What makes this a challenge? First, the thruster openings are cast resin. As a result, they tend to shrink and warp (typical for resin parts). The tolerances on this build are very tight (about 15 thousandths of an inch or 015). Not having had these castings in my hands until now, I had no way of knowing how well they would fit. As it turned out, they were off maybe 1/16. Not too bad. In addition, the warping/twisting caused a misalignment of about 1/8 inch on top of that.
Now that I am aware of this, I probably should have added more clearance to my laser-cut parts. As it is, they were very tight and so I had to do some hand cutting and machining to allow room for a proper fit. That took quite a bit of time.
Next, the thrusters are split into parts to allow you to get at the inside surfaces to glue in the details. In order to test fit everything and correct any warpage, they needed to be glued together. But, permanently assembling them would negate the advantage of having them split into sections for detailing.
The solution was to tack them together with CA and then heat and coax the parts into alignment. I then did some minor machining of the resin parts to achieve a near perfect fit. The finished assembly looks more like something made in a factory than anything I might have built by hand. So, there is a bit of a "cool" factor for me when I look at the final results.
BTW, I don't like to rely on glue when joining dissimilar materials. It's fine when gluing acrylic or styrene to itself as those materials achieve a molecular bond when using the proper solvent. This creates a very strong joint that will stand up to stress.
When bonding dissimilar materials, however, you need to take things into account like expansion and contraction that can cause a glue joint to fail over time. While I could have used CA to glue the resin parts to the acrylic structure, that would've resulted in a brittle joint that could snap if flexed. Just getting all this to go together required quite a bit of handling and I would have been popping glue joints right and left (I already ran into this problem because I tacked the thruster castings together).
I solved this issue by using screws to secure the thruster castings to the structure. No glue was required at all. The castings were specifically designed for this by way of screw bosses and pilot holes that line up with matching holes in the acrylic structure. All I had to do was drill out the pilot holes and install self-tapping #4 screws.
This module is still not completely finished, but this is about as far as I can go for now since the client will need to disassemble everything in order to detail each opening. But, I can still install the diffusers and honeycomb mesh. My design allows light to shine through while also permitting air to flow for ventilation. I'll tackle that next.
For now, I put the thruster module into the engine box just to see how it looks. The lower side boxes (now skinned) are loosely attached at this point. The front sloping section is also still under construction.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - JAWS - 08-08-2011
Wow that looks sexy..... Reminds of the nightnmare me & Phil had working on our engine boxes... Nice stuff Charles.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 08-14-2011
With things going on around the house and some construction in the shop, progress has been a bit slow. But, with that said, this engine section is very close to complete.
The front sloping section is currently being built from laser-cut styrene and the bottom portion of that is complete. The lower side boxes are permanently installed. (The upper side boxes remain removable for now to help facilitate detailing and they were removed when the attached photos were taken.)
The waist assembly has been fitted and only the top panel remains to be installed. Other than that, about all that's left is to build the upper sloping sections on either side at the front, install the main sloping front panel, and build the "light tunnel" for the center engine outlet. Then, I will install the ventilation fans and set this section aside until the main body is completed.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - darkimmitator - 08-14-2011
So Charles . Do these modules bolt together for ease of maintenance ,or are they permenently glued together as each module is completed ? Outstanding engineering by the way !
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - star-art - 08-15-2011
Thanks!
They are permanently bolted together. You can, however, keep the modules separate while you detail them up to the point where they interface with each other. Eventually, they all get bolted together and the only details still left to apply are the ones at the joints between modules.
After the model is completed, the head top hatch, neck top lid, main body lid, engine section top lid, and bay rear end caps are all removable for maintenance.
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - darkimmitator - 08-15-2011
Thanks Charles . All very helpfull info !!
RE: StarshipBuilder's CR Galactica Build #2 - Wombat - 08-21-2011
Not that i'm surprised as it's the story of this particular design but, that looks really well engineered again there, Charles and very clean work as per normal. Those thruster vaults even though they were a lil headache getting things to fit look great as does that complete assembly they are incased in. It took me a month or more to make and detail that area beforehand but i feel the next attempt will got a lot smoother as your design pretty much has covered the hard part of there construction.
Nice work there!!
Not that i'm surprised as it's the story of this particular design but, that looks really well engineered again there, Charles and very clean work as per normal. Those thruster vaults even though they were a lil headache getting things to fit look great as does that complete assembly they are incased in. It took me a month or more to make and detail that area beforehand but i feel the next attempt will got a lot smoother as your design pretty much has covered the hard part of there construction.
Nice work there!!