SS Red-5 X-wing build

[DLT9]

well been busy latly on the X here's the progress.
good to be back!
waiting on the Rel templates for the markings and battle damage.
also would like to know the with of the candycane stirpes on the lazer cannons.
i based myself on the efx xwing and some builds of wel known builders in this community.






help and constuctive critisism is more then welcome.

[427 Cobra]

I would not have based anything on the EFX X-wing,as it's notoriously wrong on so many levels! The canopy is too dark,and the wing insignias can be bought from http://www.jbot.ca for twenty bucks. I wouldn't waste my money on the blast mark stencils,when a few reference photos are priceless. I can post unretouched photos if Red 5 if you need them.

[DLT9]

thanks that would be cool!
and my canopy is too dark?
then is it just a shade of gray because i mixed gray and blue to get the color i used.

[JAWS]

Lookin good D. Nice to have you back. Chris is an X Wing Junky. He just can't settle for anything but accurate.

[MonsieurTox]

Looking good !

I too think the canopy is way too dark and the gray panels on starboardside are also too dark IMHO... Nothing you cant correct You can also mist some base color on the panels to light them up.

[DLT9]

thanks guys!
i softent up the canopy with a white wash and imo it looks better.
will do some more referece seaching in my pics archive for the gray panels to see what i need to redo.
snapped some quick pics to let the experts see the rest of the painting so far and i think its too dark too.

[427 Cobra]

These colours are all too dark. This is one of the problems with the EFX model. It has dark colours,and not enough weathering,as well as improper weathering marks. There are a lot of irregularities that the EFX model has that are very obvious,so I'll help you out here. I'll post phots of the ILM model in the morning. This way,you can see the actual ILM red 5 [/align] from different views in high resolution,and in better colour than the ones floating around the internet.

[DLT9]

thanks man!
i hope i can correct them without much trouble...

hey mate if you dont want them riculating on the net youre red 5 pics then email them to me
i will only use them for my self.

just gave the fusalage a good white primer coat.

[JAWS]

Its lookin good but take the tips these guys give you. You know they know their stuff & you like accuray aswell as the rest.

[DLT9]

thanks mate and the others giving advice on this!

got the bird masked up for the red markings,i will use flat red like before without giving a black wash now.

[Apophis]

(01-14-2010, 07:36 PM)DLT9 Wrote: thanks mate and the others giving advice on this!

got the bird masked up for the red markings,i will use flat red like before without giving a black wash now.

Dont forget to use some liquid latex mask for the paint chips before you apply the red and also use 0000 steel wool to help with the weathering.
The floquil white takes the steel wool really well, it turns the white to a whitish gray color.

[79 Daytona]

Looking GOOD!!! Can't wait to see more!!

[427 Cobra]

Here,Bjorn. This is the all new Red 5 thread. I've posted various photos there,so that I don't derail this thread. This will show you the various sides,and all the detail the this model originally had. Just right click,and save away on all the pictures you need. Unlike the members of the RPF that keep all their reference photos selfishly to their little circle of friends,I'll post any and all reference you need on any model that I have photos of.

http://www.studioscalemodelers.com/forum...hp?tid=407

~ Cobra Chris

[DLT9]

thanks guys!
well i didnt add liquid mask on the red panels,but they look good to me now.

still need to redo the grays and then a lot of weahtering i see in the red 5 thread.
i will used the lightest grays i have and lighten them up with some white list if its needed.
will post some pics of the evolution!

---

is it me or does the yellow stripe run form the canopy up the the nose in a single line?
but really badly chipped in the middle?

[427 Cobra]

Here,Bjorn. In this condensed photo of Red 5s' nose,you can see that there is a definative break in the yellow stripe (red arrows). There's also a green strip along the side (blue arrow). The radar hubs along the sides of the fuselage (green arrows) on this particular model are offset from each other.

[DLT9]

hey cobra thanks for the insight!
as for the green stripe is that the only green panel on the bird or are there still others.
it also look faded on the top rigde of the nose or im i wrong.

[427 Cobra]

No,this panel on the forward fuselage is green,but it is a mettalic looking shade mixed with a slight bit of gray. The harsh studio lighting washes it out. There are three green panels on Red 5. These are the two in this inset photo (green arrows).

[DLT9]

thanks mate really appreciate this!!!!

[427 Cobra]

(01-16-2010, 07:50 AM)DLT9 Wrote: thanks mate really appreciate this!!!!

Sure thing! This is why I'm here. One thing I forgot to mention,is that if you look closely,you can see a small chip of yellow in the gray panel on the foward fuselage where the bottom red arrow is. This means that it's not a solid gray stripe all the way through from one side to the other. This horrible studio lighting has washed this all out. If there are any spots,or other parts that you're having trouble with,just let me know - I'm always here to help!

[DLT9]

thanks mate!
a thought,could the colors of the pics be enhanced with a programm like photoshop?
ex. darken the yellow so it becommes more visable.

[427 Cobra]

There is only a little green overspray on the side panel (green arrows),but it is definately there. The yellow stripe is there cutting a notch into the gray stripe across the fuselage (yellow arrow).

[DLT9]

Wow man where do you get all these reference pics!
But they really help out along with youre expertise!

[427 Cobra]

There are a few books with these pictures in them: The art of Star Wars. The Star Wars chronicles. Sculpting a galaxy. These all have these types of photos in them,although not all of them are the same. I supersized these photos for you. I have software that allows high resolution photos to be resized for a clearer view. I got these photos from http://www.modelermagic.com I just cleaned up the colour,and the brightness for these to look exactly as they originally did back in the seventies.

[DLT9]

well here's an update!!!!

i got the templates i bought on RPF for the red signd on the wings and CRAP! when i removed them they pulled my paint to the bare resin!
left glue residue and yes i need to strip the whole surface an start over again
had to contain myself not to smash the bird against the wall!!!!

had some small chipping due to masking tape but this pulls it off.
its like there is no bonding between the resin kit and the primer used!!!

will have to meditate on this yoda style

[427 Cobra]

(01-14-2010, 02:56 AM)427 Cobra Wrote: The wing insignias can be bought from http://www.jbot.ca for twenty bucks. I wouldn't waste my money on the blast mark stencils,when a few reference photos are priceless.

I hate to say this,but I tried to warn you earlier. If you're using acrylic paint with mylar stencils,it'll tear it. The glue on this stuff is incompatible with most soft paints,and acrylic is one of them. I don't know if you have this available in your country,but "Castrol super clean" is what everyone uses to remove paint with. If you don't have that over there,use brake fluid for cars. But be very careful with this stuff,and apply it to a small area that won't be seen first to ensure that it won't soften up,and ruin your model. It shouldn't but that doesn't mean it won't. I'd just paint the base coat with automotive acrylic primer,then spray it with gloss lacquer,and steel wool it like the original ILM guys did.

You need to take pictures of this first,then email them to REL,and see if he'll give you a refund,or at least a partial refund for these. It's not like you're stealing them. You bought a product you can't use,why pay for it if it doesn't perform the way it should to begin with?! REL is a decent guy,I think he'll understand your situation,and agree that this should've worked as suggested. Especially since,everyone uses acrylic paint for their models anyway - I do!

[DLT9]

thanks for the heads up mate!
i dont know about the castrol but i go to autobody school and there we have cellulose thinner,it desolves any paint.
i texted my teacher to ask where i can buy that is small quanities and if the will effect the resin.

REL is a cool guy and i posted in his sale that i has gone FUBAR will pm him too about this later.
i dont hold any grudge at him

i can still work on the fusalage untill i get the wings sorted....

[427 Cobra]

I take it that you're talking about lacquer thinner = cellulose thinner? Be very careful with that stuff - it WILL remove paint,but it'll also remove resin,soften it,and may likely mar the details,and the finish of it. I'd apply this with a cotton swab in a small area first. If it doesn't ruin the finish of the resin,or remove the detailing from it,use an old toothbrush to remove paint from the scribe lines,and detail panels.

[DLT9]

i have some left over resin parts of the xwing that i was gona test on.

[Apophis]

Well, i think i can chime in here, make sure you srub the resin clean, and use sandpaper on the wings, it will make the paint adhere better. i dont know what was causeing the paint to come off, i had the same problem with all of my x-wings except the CC version, maybe its the resin Mike uses? i scrubbed the resin with detergent and let air dry etc..., i also use floquil paints which are kind of hot, and usually etch into the resin pretty good but it would pull off with the tape, every time.
So, like i said scrub it good and sand well, and dont use a lot of pressure on the mask, just on the edges, let dry and pull off the mask and tape at a 90 degree angle.

[427 Cobra]

Your best bet is to mask with regular masking tape. I cut all the stripes individually,then lay them down on the wing,but I measure it at 1/4" of an inch wide for each stripe. Use an sharp Exacto knife blade against a clean metal surface to do this,so that the edges are straight,and true. Make a pattern of how big the chevrons (red flag looking part) are to be,then trace that out onto each wing in the same place as the original models were. Mask around your marks,then spray your paint from your airbrush. Before removing the tape from your model,use a hair dryer to help soften the glue on the tape first. This should make it a little easier to keep the paint from lifting with the tape.

[DLT9]

thanks guys for the tips on this.
i tried out lacquer thinner from tamiya and everthing work out fine,just no rushing and using small quantities.

will clean up the wings and then sand the exposed spots then reprime them and the restart all the masking of the different colors to spray.
i will make my own wing markings like you told me,this will work much better i think.

[427 Cobra]

Just remember to use 600 grit wet-or-dry paper when sanding on this,anything rougher will leave undesireable scratches. Plus,rougher sandpaper will remove the details from the wings,and other parts that have fine chips,and greeblies. I wouldn't worry about details being sanded to make paint stick to them,just the places where you have to mask.

[DLT9]

yeah i know that i go to autobody school remember

[427 Cobra]

Ahh,sorry - I forgot! My dad was an autobody man for two of the local Chevrolet dealerships here it town. I learned a lot from him,and the rest I learned from the local painters' union,and experience. He left the Kelly dealership he worked for first,because it was too little pay,then he left the Dehaven dealership because he got fired for painting cars for the managers' friends on the side after hours. He stole the DeVilbiss paint gun,and an oilless air compressor from them. These were the tools of my trade for a long time after I left the painters' local # 469. The Dehaven shop closed up after the owner died. My dad worked as a computer programmer for BRC rubber before that place closed its' doors for the last time,and now he drives a semi truck for Prairie Farms dairy.

[DLT9]

Wow! I Hope i can get à career in that sector painting is what i love THE most.
It Will also benefit my modeling and vice versa.
At school we painting with sata that's second best to devilbiss.
Wil buy a compressor and paintguns from those Brands' someday.
Due to modeling i could get very creative in painting.

Sorry for typo's i'm typing with iPhone

[79 Daytona]

Autobody that's cool DLT9 , I took two years of it when i was in school. I still do some paint work from time to time i painted both of my cars and my bike and i painted a few bike for some of the guys at the Honda shop.

[427 Cobra]

Hey, Bjorn - any updates on this?

[DLT9]

yeah but its sloooooooooooooooooooooooow.

i cleaned up the templates mess and respayed the wings white and tried to salvage some previous paintwork aswwell.

been busy with school,getting fired and my collection room in my new house.
found a job in the autobody and getting an internship from them :d ,plus going to school for another year to get my degree.

will have to re-read my thread on my xwing to try and pic up where i left off,and i know you guys will help me out on this.
im actually thinking of finishing the fuselage first and then the wings?

cheers guys

[JAWS]

Nice to have you drop in. Sounds like the facts of life are playin a bit of havoc on a few of us... Keep us posted.