Star Trek tricorder

[427 Cobra]

Since there's no prop catagory, I'll post this here since it is a model of the original tricorder in actual studio scale. This is a consignment for Roy (Coffee Addict). These are photos I took for reference.









Here you can see that I've started working on this already. These recesses are not deep enough for the hinge pins to sit down in evenly. I'll have to do this delicately so that the alteration is invisible.

[Coffee Addict]

I can't wait to see this build!

Roy

[427 Cobra]

Not nearly as much as I can't wait to see it finished! There's a lot of wiring to do before I can paint it. I can't believe the way some of this is cast, as there are some parts that should be remastered, then cast to correct some deficiencies! I'll post photos tomorrow. I have a lot of work to figure out tonight before I can post some real progress. The red LED is one of these - the instructions on the site Roy bought this from is supposed to be cut down instead of sending the correct size to begin with. This will shorten the lifespan of it. I'll explain later. This is pretty decent kit otherwise.

[JAWS]

Oh its a kit. I thought you were scratch building it.

[427 Cobra]

Nope. These are already made. They're kits that are very complex in nature, and require some serious skills to complete. The hardest part about this will be the lighting. Right now I'm at a crossroad with the graphics. The ones I bought are purportedly from rodddenberry, but these aren't glossy, and they aren't produced on a reverse transfer type mylar sheet as the originals were.

The guy I bought these from swears that these aren't made by him, and that the ones he makes are excellent compared to them. I can only take his word, as I don't have another sample to work from. He said that he's willing to work something out, but I've already paid for the shipping on these. They're made out of thick paper, which you can't see through where the LEDs are, but there's only one. I was hoping that the sheet I bought to replace the incorrect ones would be the same in every way, but it isn't! I'll figure that out, but in the meantime, I'll chip away at this until I have it painted, and put together.

[427 Cobra]

It's official - the graphics I have are for this tricorder, but they're not see-through. I'll have to commission somone to make a set for this, so that the miniscule LEDs that can be seen will be visible once this is turned on.


The hinges aren't spaced right, so I'll have to correct this, so that everything aligns evenly the bottom is perfectly aligned, but the flip top doesn't. The spacing between the two is different. This guy instructs you to drill screws into the bottom holes of the hinges, but then he shows that you're to drill them out after supergluing them in place. WTF?!?!?!?! How are you to fix it, if you've made a mistake? This is why I cut the holes in the body first. The instructions on roddenberries' site are very haphazard! I'll show you how to avoid this with my instructions. He overworks the tricorders he's built. I'll show you the right way without a lot of B.S.



You can see that the hinge pins (as they're called) - not axles, are sticking out too far! . This is because I cut away more material than neccessary, but only because the hinges were shown backwards in the instructions. I'll fix this later. I just want to fit the hinges, then fix any irregularities later.






There's a gap in the brackets, but I'll have to fill this, and all the bubble holes that are present. You're supposed to fill, and sand the brackets, but there's no way to do this without having the screw heads show anyway. I'll have to recess these, and fill them with wood filler,so that they're not visible once painted. I have to finish fitting this before I can do that.







This shows that the top is uneven. This is caused by the inconsistent mastering process that this part underwent when being made. The hinge slots need to be farther apart by a 1/16" to the outside of the hinge on the right. More antics to correct - stay tuned.

[DarthDuck]

Ooooh?
Not to knock the "kit" but it looks like you've got your work cut out for you?

[Coffee Addict]

Hey Chris,

Where are you on the tricorder? No hurry just checking.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

I'm not in a hurry to get this done, as I want it to be accurate, and correctly built. I'll have to take my time, and not cut any corners. I got the hinges straightened out. This was a pain because the flip top was 1/16" of an inch closer together in the hinge recesses than the clear cast body recesses were. I had to cut this wider, so that when this opens, and closes it'll be even on both sides unilaterally (side to side, and up and down).

I'm working on the electronics right now. I need a reed switch, and a battery pack. I hope to get a rechargable 3.5 volt battery pack for this. This will make it easier, but it will incur an upcharge for the batteries,and the charger. I'm afraid there's no getting around this. A recharable one saves a lot of money in the long run, and it keeps you from breaking the wires inside the unit, as you won't have to remove the battery pack. I can't go any further until I get the battery pack, and the reed switch, as all this needs to be fitted before I can paint it.

[Coffee Addict]

Hey Chris,

Did you receive the reed switch? I have been gone all week. My brother passed away Tuesday night and I have been trying to deal with that. Its kinda scary because he was younger and in way better shape than myself.

Roy

[erospawn]

I am sorry to hear that. my condolences to you and your family.

[JAWS]

Thats extremely sad Roy. I am sure we are all sorry to hear this & wish you our deepest sympathies.

[Coffee Addict]

Hey Chris,

Where do we stand on this and Arnold. I have sent a couple emails with no response. I am going to be moving soon.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

I'm sorry, Roy - I haven't checked my emails in days. I got your PM. PM replied to today. This will be wrapped up today, or tomorrow. I only need to wire this to the reed switch, and paint it. It'll take a few days to dry to enough to be handled. Figuring out the guts to this is what has delayed completion, and shipping. I'm sorry for this, but it was unforseen. I'll wrap, and ship it with Arnie this weekend.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

Status???

[427 Cobra]

I'm sorry, Roy - I have been working on this, even though I haven't posted anything new. It's been raining here so much that I can't get anything done on the X, or much of anything else! I've gotten this tricorder almost complete. The paint I bought needs to be remixed to the correct colour - it was too bright! I took pictures of this, but I haven't posted them, as I've been so busy I can't think straight. I also have projects from other people that need to be finished, so I'm jumping back and forth like mad to keep up. My table's a mess right now, so I have to finish the projects that I started, and get back on my own stuff ASAP.

I've been so busy lately that I've only been popping in for a few minutes at a time to post. Today I have a little more time, but I need to finish your tricorder. I need to get a battery - this is all it needs to be complete other than the finish and appliying the stickers to it.

~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

This is all I have taken photos of so far. I have to get the paint done ASAP, so that I have it almost finished. Then after it dries, I can apply the decals. No descriptions today - I'm rushed for time as I'm late for band practice. I'm the bassist in our band even though I usually play guitar at home.




































There was a scratch on the front of this, so I sanded it with 600 grit. I'll have to rub this out on the buffing wheel so that the LEDs won't be diffused when lit.

[Coffee Addict]

I'm so excited! Looks great so far.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

I'm glad someone is! The refitting of the door is what took so long. The cutouts that were marked on the body shell were misaligned slightly, so I had to reposition this several times to make it fit perfectly. I'm not going to charge extra for that, as it's not your fault, Roy. The stickers are placed on there, not glued. This is soley for example. I still have to figure out the reed switch placement yet. I made these stickers from a sheet that Myron sent me via email. The ones that I bought from him are wrong, even thought they are the Roddenberry version. They're for a different tricorder altogether, but I'm not going to charge you twice for these.

All this needs now is the LEDs soldered into the lid, and painted. I'll let you buy your own battery, and charger for this. The reason being is so that you'll have compatible connectors that'll fit each other with no problem. Myron gets his off ebay, as they're cheaper, and easier to find than the local stores.

These pictures are over two weeks old. I know that this has been sitting for over a month, but parts, and paint have slowed me down to a crawl on this build. I have the LEDs now, and the reed switch along with the paint, so I can finish this, then send it back once the paint dries. I'll have to fill, and sand the hell out of this today once I get the last of the parts installed.

[dbhs]

Looking great !

[directorcass]

Hooking up the reed switch can be a pain in the rear. Just make sure you have a strong magnet in the door. On mine, once I had the reed wired into my circuit I epoxied it between the I & E on the front panel. I then held the door to the main body and moved the magnet around until it tripped the reed. I marked the location with a sharpie and then epoxied the magnet in place.

[427 Cobra]

That's the problem - I don't know how to wire a reed switch in this, so that it'll work. The magnet that Roy sent me is tiny, and it won't have enough pull in it to trigger this through the acrylic. I can get a stronger magnet, but I just need to know where to put this, so that it'll work once it opens up.

~ Cobra Chris

[directorcass]

(05-25-2010, 12:58 AM)427 Cobra Wrote: That's the problem - I don't know how to wire a reed switch in this, so that it'll work. The magnet that Roy sent me is tiny, and it won't have enough pull in it to trigger this through the acrylic. I can get a stronger magnet, but I just need to know where to put this, so that it'll work once it opens up.

~ Cobra Chris

For those who may not know, a reed switch is a glass tube with a wire on each end. It has two metal wires inside that touch. When a magnet is placed near them it will pull the wires away from each other, opening the circuit (off). When the magnet is removed the wires touch and close the circuit (on) It is just a fancy on/off switch operated by a magnetic field. The reed switch is mounted in the body of the Tric and the magnet is located in the door.

Just splice the reed into the negative wire from the battery and the board, just like an on/off switch. Grab a "Rare Earth" magnet from RadioShack for a few dollars. The magnet pulls apart the two flat pieces of metal inside the tube, breaking the circuit (off). When the door is opened, the magnetic field is removed and the two bits of metal touch and closes the circuit (on). Depending on the strength of your magnet you may have to drill a hole under the Starfleet R&D sticker and mount the magnet flush, under the sticker. This will move the magnet closer to the reed switch, typicaly mounted behind the I & E buttons.

[427 Cobra]

Please forgive me, Robert. I meant where can I put the magnet so that it won't interfere with the other components inside, but it will still work with the PC board already glued in. There's a hole under the R & D sticker on the bottom of the lid/door, but I don't know where to put the switch so that it will activate and not be obstucted by the PC board.

I'm thinking of drilling a small hole in the side edge of the door, and putting the magnet there so that I can put the reed switch along the side of the main board. I figure that this will make it activate with no problem. Thank you for your help with this. I just need to get this done as it's the very last thing I have to do before I paint the tricorder, and place the stickers.

On another note - have the door in primer, and the paint is mixed to the proper colour. I'm sick right now, and it's only getting worse. I have the majority of this finished. I'll get the wiring, and paint done hopefully tomorrow, but I want a few more pictures of this in the unpainted form first so that I have references for my portfolio.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

Thanks for the updates Chris. Take your time and feel better.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, Roy. I wired all the stuff I could until I found out that I don't have the resistor value for the LEDs in this tricorder. I contacted roddenberry by phone and email. I'm awaiting their response. I'll have to disinfect your tricorder with a thin coat of alcohol now that I've infected it with my cold germs. I haven't touched Arnie, or his weapons, so he should be safe for you to handle without getting sick.

I use 91% alcohol so that it cleans without leaving a residue on all my electronic components. I've never had a problem with them after cleaning them this way. I'll have to do this when I'm completely well again, so I don't cross contaminate. I keep everything clean, but when someone else gives me their cold - there isn't much I can do, except wear gloves which I don't have at the moment.

I haven't put the stickers on yet. I'm waiting for the electronics so that I can paint it first, then let it dry completely before applying them to the tricorder itself. I'm also having trouble finding a magnet that'll be strong enough to pull the reeds apart without interfering with other components, or having to modify the door.

Anyway, I thought I'd just give you an update, so that you don't think I'm screwing around and dragging my feet with this. Right now I really need to get off the forum and the computer as I feel really puky at the moment.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

I totally understand! I was down for 6 days with that crap. You shouldn't need resistors for the electronics. I think the max the board can take is 4.5 volts. The circuits came from another source, not Rod.comm.

[427 Cobra]

While I have my second wind - I got the specs from roddenberry.com. Unfortunately, you have to use resistors with any type of LED, as they won't work without a controlled circuit. Regardless who made it, the LEDs in this need to run at a constant rate. The rate for this is 82 Ohms. I don't have the correct ones for this right now. I have every other kind, except these. When I get enough strength to leave the house, I'll go to the electronics store, and get the parts I need to make this work.

If I remember to, I'll post pics of this before I paint it tomorrow. If I feel as bad as today, it won't happen until friday. Stay tuned, people.

~ Cobra Chris

[directorcass]

I wish I could see the pics you posted. Whatever photo hosting service you're using is blocked here at work. Are the boards pre-wired/soldered? Did you have to build the boards yourself? Who made them?

[427 Cobra]

I'm sorry, Robert. These say GM props on the backside of them. These are all pre-wired together. The LEDs inside the door are not wired, but free standing - alone from any type of PC board. These will need to be at a controlled rate to allow the battery to last longer. The way it works is simple, but the reed switch has been a real pain in my ass! After all this is wired together, I'll check for continuity with my volt/Ohm meter. This will tell me if all is working properly without the battery installed.

On a sour note: I rubbed out the scratches on the face where the LEDs on the PC board show, but some of the LEDs on these boards DO NOT LINE UP WITH THE STICKERS. What this means is, there are places where the stickers will light up where it shouldn't, and not light up where it should. This PC board is not for this particular tricorder!

Let me show you with the following pictures.



This was taken two days ago to show you that I have made progress despite my being sick. I don't want you to think I'm dragging my feet with this.



This is to show you that I had to put spacers in this to move the top of the door closer to the face of the main body for magnet spacing. The nonfunctioning ones have the hinges recessed the way I originally had this, as I was only copying what I saw on the roddenberry website. This is 0.40" of an inch difference. This looks better without the 1/8" inch gap between the top of the door, and the body it had before this modification. Now it looks more like the real thing. They recess these more deeply to help hide the hinges.





I know that the top was hard to see through, so I wet-sanded this, and rubbed it out on the pedestal buffer (polishing machine) that we use for musical instruments in my friends' garage. This is after I removed the hot glue from this to reposition the reed switch. This is only laying on top temporarily, there wasn't enough room for this to be placed inside the cover between the PC mother board, and the acrylic body. I had to reglue this so that it could be removed easily in case something blows up, or needs replacing at a later time. I don't think it's in mine, or Roys' best interest to glue this so hard that it can't be serviced later if need be.

I glued the hell out of this the first time thinking this is the way it had to be, but it isn't neccessary. This only made it harder for me to go over this again after the glue had to be removed very carefully with a screwdriver, and a pair of needlenose pliers. I had to reposition the board as it was slightly askew. I didn't think this was very professional of me to leave it this way, even if it wasn't noticable. It took five minutes for me to remove the glue without damaging the board - this proved to be my own undoing! I carefully reglued all of this so that all the boards can be removed without sacrificing structural integrity.






This is a close up of the magnet that I broke in half to help strengthen this. This is a ceramic magnet that I got from a broken guitar pickup. I laid the smaller one that I got from Roy on top to see if there's a change in pull on the reed. I won't know for sure until I can put this on the Ohm meter.





This is a photocopy of the original stickers that were supposed to come with this. I use these so the originals don't get destroyed when making adjustments, or when something needs tweaked. This way, I can get an idea of how it should look when finished without a rehashment of what happened to the original sticker sheet.



In this picture you can see the black arrow shows where the LED is. This is where the PWR lettering is, and it won't show the little light through the coloured area where it should. The conferderate gray arrow that is barely visible to the right is where the other LEDs on the same board also don't line up where they should. The little E sys lettering is where the second one is located. The only way to fix this is to paint over them. The upper right block on the peak of the tricorder body has absolutely no LEDs whatsoever, and the one to the left of it only has one.

The ones in a line from left to right on the main body are where the numbers are. The ones to the left of these will only light up the bar in one spot. These stickers are identical to what was sent with the tricorder except for the background colour. This means, whoever you got this PC board from should've checked to be sure that this was 100% correct for your particular model. The rest of the LEDs will line up, but the ones at the bottom that you can just barely see might be a little off.
Otherwise, this should look just like a real tricorder. The crazing you see is only from the superglue, I'll have to clean that up so that it'll be perfectly clear.

[Coffee Addict]

No resistors required! They have been integrated into the board. I have the specs for this circuit board from the builder which I will send later. Don't do any more till you get them.

Roy

[directorcass]

The boards I have for my Tric are also from GMProps. Although my boards are for the Playmates Tric, I was very impressed with them. Going from a lightbulb and a single blinking LED stock to 52 twinkling and blinking LEDs was glorious!

This may be a lot to ask Cobra, but anyway you could post some pics with picasaweb? It seems to be the only one I can view at work.

https://www.google.com/accounts/ServiceL...ssive=true

[427 Cobra]

I'm sorry, Robert - I don't have Picasa on my computer anymore. When I got a virus a couple years ago ('08), it wiped a lot of my programs off the hard drive permanently. In the photos on the roddenberry site, it shows resistors soldered into the wires for the LEDs. I haven't cut these leads for the LEDs yet, but as soon as I get the reed switch placed - I'm going to seal the back cover plates' frame permanently. (I just hope that I don't remove the paint from the screws if I have to remove the cover plate for any reason.) Then I'll wire the LEDs and paint it all at once. I just needed to find out what value resistor. Now I know, but regardless who made this, it should still work on the same basic principle as other electronics.

All I'm waiting for is the resistors, and the paint mainly. I just need to get the reed switch glued into place, and find a strong enough magnet to separate the reeds when engaged. After that, I can wire the LEDs in, then paint this. I'm not going to superglue any of the stickers on, or the plates in the door. The reason for this is so that if something needs replaced, it can with little trouble. I'll reinforce the wires coming out of the door so that they don't get broken off while being handled. At least this way, you can replace everything if ever need be, and it'll still work without destroying the paint, or the door itself in the process. The only thing that you'd want to be careful with is the LED at the bottom of the door, as it'll be hidden behind a sticker. That one will just be hot glued into place by the wires to keep it from being difficult to remove if it ever needs to be replaced.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

Hey Chris,

Can you take some pics of the backside of the tricorder. I'm assuming at this point you have glued in the circuit boards? I'm trying to figure a way for the graphics to line up. How far off are they at this point?

[427 Cobra]

I already have the circuit boards hot-glued to the inside of the casing. These are off by more than 1/8" of an inch each! There's no way to fix them. Six of these are behind the yellow strip, but only partially. I added arrows to one of these pictures to show how off they are from the stickers. It's only in three places.

~Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

There isn't much sense in going any further. If they don't line up then it defeats the purpose of finishing. Please box it up and send it back. Don't go any further on it. maybe I can get the boards out without causing tons of damage.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

I'll leave the wires, and LEDs in place so that you use them if you get another board that will line up correctly with all the buttons as they were originally intended. I'm not going to superglue all the parts in the door, so that you can remove the guts in case they ever need replaced. As far as the LEDs, whoever you got this board from should've made damn sure that these LEDs would line up perfectly with this sticker set. The sad thing is, the one on the front works perfectly, and all the LEDs line up on it.

The other two areas are where the stickers go, and don't line up where they should. This would work if you were able to remove them from the PC board, and place them where they need to be, but there aren't enough to light up all the areas needed, even if you could. The hot glue will come off without damaging the boards if you want to remove them, you'll just have to be very careful in doing this.

I'm sorry this didn't work out for you, Roy. I'll complete the tricorder as promised, so that this will come to you as a finished piece - it just won't have the correct PC boards with the properly spaced LEDs. This way, if you need to get another PC board set later everything else will be already done. The only thing you'd have to worry about would be proper placement of the PC boards should you choose to replace these with the proper ones at a later time.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

(06-06-2010, 03:38 PM)427 Cobra Wrote: I'll leave the wires, and LEDs in place so that you use them if you get another board that will line up correctly with all the buttons as they were originally intended. I'm not going to superglue all the parts in the door, so that you can remove the guts in case they ever need replaced. As far as the LEDs, whoever you got this board from should've made damn sure that these LEDs would line up perfectly with this sticker set. The sad thing is, the one on the front works perfectly, and all the LEDs line up on it.

The other two areas are where the stickers go, and don't line up where they should. This would work if you were able to remove them from the PC board, and place them where they need to be, but there aren't enough to light up all the areas needed, even if you could. The hot glue will come off without damaging the boards if you want to remove them, you'll just have to be very careful in doing this.

I'm sorry this didn't work out for you, Roy. I'll complete the tricorder as promised, so that this will come to you as a finished piece - it just won't have the correct PC boards with the properly spaced LEDs. This way, if you need to get another PC board set later everything else will be already done. The only thing you'd have to worry about would be proper placement of the PC boards should you choose to replace these with the proper ones at a later time.

~ Cobra Chris

Please do as I ask and stop working on it. Just box it up and send it back the way it is. Make up a detailed bill and send it to me via email.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

The Tricorder is already finished. I'll put this in a box, and send you the bill. It won't have any extra charges on it.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

It really can't be finished if the graphics don't line up. Get everything packed and send me a detailed bill please. Its time to get this wrapped up.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

Maybe I'm not being clear - the graphics line up with the tricorder body, it's the LEDs soldered to the PC board that won't line up with the graphics the way that they're intended to be for this model. Meaning, that the PC boards you sent along with this tricorder are not the ones for this particular one. It'll be finished, just not an electronically functioning version, which this was not intended to be according to the http://www.roddenberry.com site. They do not sell these in kit form with electronics at their own admission.

I further understand that you wanted this to have the electronics in it, as it should've had from the factory, but this is a recast version of the previously released licensed toy. This is a vaccum formed shell with a urethane cast door, parts, and hardware store hinges. These are made to offer the public a cheaper, although illegal version without electronics, as this site is NOT a legitimate Paramount subsidiary, or any licensee of it. The roddenberry site looks legitimate, but everything on it is an illegal non-licensed recast version -not a Master Replicas brand version, as only their products are legitimately licensed by the Paramount corporation for public distribution! Roddenberry offers electronic versions, but these are PRE-wired, assembled and made with the exact same recast materials as all the rest, but at MUCH higher price than the non-functioning ones.

Look, Roy - I'm only trying to watch out for you, as I know you don't have a lot of money, or resources. I thoroughly researched this for the last two months patiently trying to find all the right information on this particular brand of tricorder only to find that this isn't something you can buy off the shelf. I even went to the extremes of asking many other people about these all over the forums, and all their associated parts so that I could build the most accurate, and truly functioning T.V. prop that money could buy. I even charged you a much lower rate for my services that anyone else on any of these forums would have charged for the same services.

At the risk of losing you as a customer for any further work, I've tried to be as professional (unbiased) as possible, even though this took time away from all my own build time at home. The last PM I got from you sounds like you're pissed off at me, even though this is of no fault of my own. The stickers I got are the correct ones, as is the placement of all the parts to ensure as accurate a build as possible with what all I was supplied from you. I have applied myself to learn all that I can to build this cheaply, but with the utmost quality, and integrity. I have nothing against you, but in your last PM you made it sound as if I have a lack of knowledge about this tricorder, and that this is the reason the LEDs which are PRE-wired to the circuit board was all my fault! This IS the one that YOU purchased for this tricorder before ever soliciting my services. I do understand basic, and some advanced electronics, and theory. I could still make this work without a huge upcharge for parts, and without a charge for further labour.


I understand that this is a huge disappointment as you hired me to make a working tricorder. However, the parts this has are incidentally the wrong ones through no fault of my own. I only pointed this out, as I don't want to send this to you knowing full well that this isn't what you thought it to be. I'm not looking for a fast buck, but rather lending a helping hand to a fellow sci-fi fan in need. I didn't want you to open this tricorder up, and see lights where there shouldn't be any, or not see them where they should be under the graphics sheet. I don't feel that this is professional. I know that you have a budget for this project, including the Arnold figure, so I set my prices accordingly. This is also why I didn't superglue any of the parts that allow access to the electronics, so that you can replace them at a later date in time. This makes sense, don't you think? Please, don't be angry at me for doing what I feel is reasonable, and the right thing to do as far as this tricorder is concerned.

I'm not going to ask for more money, as this was already mentioned in the original email I sent you. I have to finish this as far as I originally promised to for the $45.00 that I said I would. Even if you don't have the money to buy the correct PC boards for this now, maybe you can buy them later, and not have to worry about doing anything else other than that. It's not going to cost you any more money for any more labour that I do - it's already covered. This is otherwise what I agreed to do - assemble this, and paint it in it's finished form. The electronics were supposed to be a part of this, but I already installed them per our agreement, whether working or not. The only thing this needs now is a battery. I'll have to let this dry before I can box it. This is as far as it can go without wiring a battery, or a new set of PC boards for this. I've already done what I can do with this up to this point, which is what I agreed to from the start. If there is anything else I might have forgotten, please PM me, and keep this thread clean, as it is intended to be a primer for others to see how to assemble one of these without a degree in engineering unlike the roddenberry site.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

Like I stated earlier the kit and the electronics are from different places. The kit is Rod.com and the circuits are GMprops. Gerry makes his boards to fit the Rod kits and also Myron's kits. You should have temp taped the graphics into place then lined up the boards behind them and then glued them in. There is a little room to trim the boards to fit as needed. That kit is the third I've had built now and there were no problems with the others. I'm not mad at you I knew you didn't have any experience with tricorders. I should have waited for a while and maybe done it myself. I have always intended to pay you more than you quoted. You have done outstanding work and you should be paid well for it.

Get me some current pics of the tricorder so I can see exactly where you are.

Roy

[427 Cobra]

I understand what you're saying, but out of all honesty - you don't expect things to turn out this way when buying from people who sell things like this for a living. We both were blind-sided on this one. This is a disappointment, especially for me, as you are a first time customer, and I've been making things like this forever. This just makes things look bad all around. I know this isn't your fault, or your intent, as no one would intentionally send the wrong part for someone else to put together! PM sent. It should be in your in-box.

I want to thank you for allowing me to do these builds for you, as I would never have done them for myself. This gave me a chance to work in another medium that without knowing you, I wouldn't have otherwise.

I'd never make you pay for my mistakes, or force you to pay for a learning curve. That's unethical, and immoral. This is also why I gave you a heads up about the LEDs. It would've been wrong for me to not say anything, then pretend to know nothing about it! Since you are a paying customer, I feel it's only right that you should know what's going on with your property. I'll remove the PC boards very carefully, so that you don't have to wrestle with them yourself. I'll have to wait for the paint to dry before I can handle it, and take pictures. I'm not home right now, as I had to help my mom with my grandmothers' house, and yard this week. I'll be around, but only in a limited capacity. As soon as I get back to my place, I'll try take some pictures, and upload them if I remember to empty my memory card (it's full).

~ Cobra Chris

[directorcass]

Sounds like you guys are getting this worked out. I just wished I had a computer to view the picks. CA, what Rodd tricorder is this, Mk #? I have GMProp boards in my Playmates and they lined up great. I think, without being able to see picks, is that the GMP boards you got may not be for that model of tricorder. When you get it back, could you emial me some pics?

[427 Cobra]

I can email you some pics, so you can see what I'm talking about. There is one on this site where you can see the LEDs won't line up in certain places. I had to remove the PC boards, so that they can be replaced at a later date. I think I still have your email address. I'll send these right after I log out.

~ Cobra Chris

[Coffee Addict]

Still waiting on the pics.

thecoffeeaddict@comcast.net

[427 Cobra]

I'm sorry, Roy - I can't post pictures right now. I don't have my desktop that I normally use on the forum. This is why I haven't posted any photos of anything I've done lately. I'm writing from my mothers' house. I'm staying here to help her clean up the rest of the mess in my grandmothers' garage this week. The realtor can't show the house until this stuff is gone. I forgot to say anything about it. When I get back, I'll shoot some photos of it, and post them here.

~ Cobra Chris