Four foot X-wing (ILM tribute)

[JAWS]

Update Cris?

[427 Cobra]

Soon. I need to get some rubber, and resin to cast parts in multiples first.

[427 Cobra]

I know that everyone has asked about this, so here's the latest that I have. I hoped to have more to show, but I've been called away to finish other projects that needed my immediate attention. These are the humble beginnings of the wings. These photos are almost two months old now. I had to stop once I got to the point where I needed to cast multiple parts for them. This is a problem that I hope to soon remedy.

I had to cut styrene sheets for each of these to cover them over. This will make it easier to scribe the lines.




Acrylic makes for a durable base.






This picture was taken to show transparency.





I had to wash the glue residue from the protective film off the surface of each panel.





I had to reglue the pieces that I cut from the wing inside facing panels, as I removed too much from the beginning.






A blurry closeup of the repair before I sanded it smooth.

[dbhs]

It's difficult to see in some of the photos. Sheeting with styrene is a good idea so as to not have to scribe the acrylic. How are you cutting the holes out of the middle? Are they laser cut?

[MonsieurTox]

Hey Chris, why not scribbing the plexi ? It's as easy as the styrene, that's often cleaner and the surface is harder !

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, guys. I'm using styrene because this is how the original X was made. They covered the entire thing with styrene sheet, but I'll only going to use it for the wings because these are the only things that have scribe lines other than the fuselage. I'll post pics when I have enough of these finished to see the difference. I can get clean lines, but it takes a while to smooth everything out on acrylic. If I make a mistake - it's easier to fix with styrene. I still have to make the boxes for the engines to sit on. Then I'll have these half way done. I hope to have more progress soon, (but don't hold your breath)!

~ Cobra Chris

[79 Daytona]

Great start on the wings!!!

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, Al.

I'm sorry for not answering your question, Doug. No - these aren't laser cut, I did this by hand with a Dremel Moto-tool. I drew out the basic design, then cut along the edge very carefully. I smoothed these out with 60 grit, then refined them with 220, and finally with 600 grit to make the edge super fine, and glassy smooth. This is how I cut all my acrylic pieces, which will be almost finished when I get the canopy, and vault (fuselage backside) cut.

~ Cobra Chris

[JAWS]

Excellent! Back on this build. Its abourt time buddy! I'll send you those Leopold parts for the R2 strip now.

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, Jase. A little at a time, as the inspiration hits me. I still need to order the casting supplies for this. I hope to do this today, or tomorrow.

~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

I need those parts, Jase - I'm getting ready to cast the greeblies for the wings, but I'll have to wait until I get the money for casting supplies, I'm just a little bit short for material costs with shipping. On the bright side of things, I'm almost done with the rear vault of the fuselage which will allow me to make bottom half of the fuselage now!

~ Cobra Chris

[JAWS]

I'll send them this week. Hurry up & show us that Butt Plate mate.

[427 Cobra]

I'm already about done with most of it, but I had to start on parts for the wings that are multiples, so I can finish them since they're the first things I made for this kit. I need some input, as I'm at a crossroads in the wing design. Below is a picture of the inner wing. I need to figure out how to make this so I can copy the construction without the casting process being compromised.

I'm thinking about making the wing sections solid, then drilling a hole in the master where this should be and filling it with wood filler to make an indent on the inside edge for modelers to lay a ruler between the two for marking, to facilitate drilling a small hole for a spar (red arrows) to go into the engine bay. This would allow for it to be more accurate with out the wings being hollow. I've even been thinking about leaving a slight lip around the holes for the inner wing details for those who want to make theirs look like the wings are hollow instead of cast . This way, the wing can be cast without ruining the mould with severe undercuts, and still look hollow for the most part. I'm also thinking about leaving the engine risers/bays separate from the wings, so they can be cast easier - and so that a modeler can discard, or copy the wings for those who would rather make their own hollow versions for studio accuracy. I'd make a small mark on the wing for this, so it can be placed correctly. Does this make sense?

~ Cobra Chris

[JAWS]

Just make the basic wing & have all the greeblies cast separately like a scratch build. Make the basic structures & have all the details cast seperate. This is the way it should be. the same way the G Shuttle was mastered.

[427 Cobra]

Most of these details will have to be cast into the wing. I just want to make the wing separate from the engine bay for ease of casting. It wouldn't be too hard to cast the details separately, but I don't want people to be forced into incorrectly spacing, then gluing these parts to their wings. I'll make as many of these parts separately as possible, but I can't make them all that way. I made another part tonight, but this needs to be cast, then glued to the wing. This is the Stug part.

There are other parts such as the sealab parts that will be cast into the engine risers/bays. The mount for the laser canon will be separate for ease of casting too. There aren't too many parts that I can make separately, Jase - this is the bad thing about this, as this is meant to be as accurate as possible the same way a regular kit off the shelves is. I'll post pictures of this when I can, so you can see what I'm talking about.

~ Cobra Chris

[JAWS]

Good. Just stay on this now Chris.

[dbhs]

Weird - I got 6 email notifications by post #163 came about 5 minutes apart for a half hour.

[79 Daytona]

Yeah same here.

[427 Cobra]

Doug, I edited that post a few times before posting it, but I don't know why it would send/resend this so many times.

Here's the newest from my table for all to see. I had to modify this only once (thankfully), not there's much to it, but one irreversable mistake could've caused me to scrap the whole thing.


In the beginning.





Getting there. I wanted to show that each piece is a separate component to make up an entire part. Each rivet is a rounded over rod cut, then sanded round on the end with an emery board, then glued into the plate from the bottom, this allows more realism. This is also how I made the side by side cabochons (half round greeblies) in the middle.



This still isn't right yet. I liked this look better than the actual shape it has on the ILM model. I didn't have a choice, I HAD to make this correct, and true to the original model - the cabochons (pronounced Ka-bow-shawns) had to go. You can see what change had to be made in photo below this one.



This is what it is today. I have no more plans to change it at this point in time, except the rod ends that go into the holes need to be extended a little. I had to replace the rods at each end of this for accuracy - they were too big around. I also altered the half round greeblies in the center - these are stepped, not round as I originally thought. After super sizing, and squinting forever - I saw that these have two flat surfaces each one of a different diameter with a hole in the center. I decided to make the inner circular step with aluminum tubing to save me from having to drill a hole in a styrene rod. See the picture of the ILM model at the bottom, and compare it to my version.





I used other pictures for reference for the rivets, and spacing between parts, but this one is the clearest showing the two stepped greeblies in the middle along with the diameter of the rod ends in relation to their size.

[dbhs]

Been quite around here the last couple of days. Hopefully everyone is out having fun somewhere or else getting something done on their projects...

Dude. If that's the best reference you got then you got it pretty damn close.

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, Doug. I'm trying my hardest to get this right since it's my only shot at this.

WOW!!! My 800th post. This is the most I have ever had on any modeling forum.

Here're some month old photos that I forgot about. I've been so busy with readying the garage at my grandmothers' house for the closing last monday - I didn't realise I had taken these until I was looking through all the pictures on my camera before uploading them to my computer. I haven't been able to get much more done since that time. Now that the house is sold, I can dedicate all the freetime I have available to finishing as much of the acrylic cutting I can before the weather gets too cold outside. I hope this will suffice until I can get more progress done.

~ Cobra Chris

This is the vault "buttplate" - only the top sides are too short, therefore they'll have to be lengthened to 3/8" wider than they are right now. I didn't realise this until I already cut the plate out.





These are the top, and bottom of the wings after I glued them, and cut them out. This picture was taken after they dried. I'll reinforce all the edges with Weld-on cemet to keep them from deforming while being cast.



These are the insides of the wings right after gluing them. I laid all these on top of the sheet of styrene on the bed while gluing, and cutting because it was the biggest clean, flat surface available. I still have yet to clean up the edges of the styrene because I still have to straighten out the acrylic pieces that I cut for them. Once this is all joined, I can cast the inside detail parts for the Stug, then glue them and call these done for the most part. I think I'll wait until they're completed before scribing the lines on them in case I make a mistake that will need to be sanded out, or filled.

[JAWS]

Sweet Chris. Glad to see some major progress on this build. Looking good.

[79 Daytona]

Outstanding work!!!!

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, guys. I'm going to try to finish the wings this week even if it kills me! I need to find some corrugated roofing for the wing panel that the Saturn V housing goes on. This is the part that is supposed to be Holgate-Reynolds brick sheet. I don't know where to get this in only the strip form, as opposed to brick design since the four foot model doesn't have brick on the wings' cooling plenum/engine platform. It's just straight lines, and I need to get some of this so I can finish the wings completely. I've already tried to mark straight lines for this on styrene, but I can't seem to get them straight - even when I'm not drinking!


This is the part I'm talking about for those who don't understand X-wing lingo. You can't really see it here, but there are many lines in this oblong L shaped panel in the blue circle. This is supposed to be perforated on the real deal the same as a honeycomb radiator for engine coolant, hence the brick sheet pattern used on the studio models. This is supposed to be where the radiators are to cool the main engines. For whatever reason the dynamic duo decided not to use the exact same sheet, but improvised instead.





Here's a closeup of the Saturn V housing, and the radiator panel. This is the bottom right wing inverted since the other picture isn't as clear. The (green arrow) is the reverse side of this same styrene sheet, and the smoother, but lined side (red arrow) is what I need. This is called wood siding/panel on the package SKU number, but I can't seem to find it online. It's almost $6.00 a sheet at the local hobby shop, but I only need a little bit to finish this up. Does anyone here know if, or where I can get this any cheaper online?

~ Cobra Chris

[MonsieurTox]

Chris, I got my corrigated styrene sheet from Plastruct. You jut have to chose the correct one !

[427 Cobra]

That's what I used. I put the corrugated side on the Saturn V rocket housings, and the smoother wood side is what I need to put on the intake plenums. I appreciate your help, but I need to find this cheaper - the hobby store charges what http://www.plastruct.com charges directly from their website. I need some, but I don't want to pay full price as I only need a little bit. The scraps I have left aren't enough to finish ONE wing, let alone two!

~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

I've really screwed up now - I cut off too much from the trailing edge (red arrow) when I made the side of the intake plenum with the sealab part. I sanded it even with the acrylic base. How do I fix this? Do I start over? Meaning, do I sand off the styrene, or attempt to glue an extremely thin strip to this in the hope that it will not deform, or come back off? Either way, this is going to take some effort, but it needs to be done. I only did one side so far, so I won't have to do this again.

FYI - this is a lot bigger than it looks in this picture = about 3" each way.

~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

So much for getting a response! Due to the lack of funds, and the lack of interest in this subject (too many X-wings), I won't be posting in this thread anymore.

~ Cobra Chris

[MonsieurTox]

Post pics of your part Chris, that's hard to figure how it could be fixed with a pic of the original model.

[JAWS]

Chris this thread has more views than any other thread. I think that shows interest even though people aren't posting any replies. Like Julien said. Its hard to see how to fix something if you don't post pics of what youve done. Stop being negative & get back to the project.

[79 Daytona]

I agree with jason and i know i have'nt posted anything on this thread in a while but i still keep up with it and really look forward to every update you post so please keep the updates coming.

[DarthDuck]

And Chris, while I've been remiss to post that doesn't mean I'm not watching with interest!

I have self professed ADD which means when I see what I know will be a WIP for a very long length of time (in my mind at least) I somehow expect ,"I'll just catch up and post later on". True, might not be fair but I'm just explaining myself since it has seemed to effect you?

Carry on!
Or, Carry Out- same price.

[427 Cobra]

(10-29-2010, 04:08 AM)MonsieurTox Wrote: Post pics of your part Chris, that's hard to figure how it could be fixed with a pic of the original model.

I sanded off the part I thought I was emphasizing with the red arrows. I guess I was too vague, and not thinking clearly when I posted that picture. I'll explain this later when I have the new part glued back onto the acrylic panel.

(10-29-2010, 07:36 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Chris this thread has more views than any other thread. I think that shows interest even though people aren't posting any replies. Like Julien said. Its hard to see how to fix something if you don't post pics of what youve done. Stop being negative & get back to the project.

OK, I see your point, but I already removed the panel that was sanded short. I figured that the description of what happened would be enough. I needed an honest opinion about it, but I couldn't get anyone to say anything. There's a small lip - TOO SMALL to glue without making a mess! I superglued the styrene square to an acrylic piece to make a panel for the engine bay. I sanded the entire styrene square even with the edges of the acrylic part, when the very end should've extended about .60" of an inch over one end. I remembered when I had to make engine bells that needed to be separated after being glued incorrectly. I used a kitchen knife with an upholstery hammer tapping it slowly on each end of the blade as it cut between the styrene, and the acrylic with the acrylic stood up on end - pretty much the same way I did with the engine bells. I had to do this very carefully, so I didn't cut myself while holding it.


Duckster - I believe you, and I are on the same page here as well. It doesn't affect me when everyone doesn't post - it does affect me when I ask a question, but it goes unanswered. I know I'm not a wordsmith, so I don't always write the way intend for it to be worded, and sound proper, so that everyone can understand me completely, but already knew that I needed to fix a problem, I just didn't know what was the safest way to do it. I have my answer to that, but why do we have so many members that come here, register, log in a couple times, then never come back? Only a few of us participate on a regular basis. With the few members that we do have - we need to stick together! If I write something cryptic - let me know! You guys should know by this time that I can be confrontational when attacked (who isn't?), but not when I make a mistake! You guys can always send me a PM if I mess up, or write something you find objectionable.

Sometimes it takes me an hour to post something here, as I don't always know what to say - even longer with pictures, and I edit my posts a lot! I don't want it to, it just makes it harder having ADD, and the other problems that I think about constantly. I have to word my sentences carefully when I type, as I have to concentrate five times harder than anyone else does. I touch type when I look at the screen because all the letters on my keys are worn off! I can't type as proficiently as I should since I can't feel the bumps on the F, and J keys since I hold my hands as if I'm playing the piano. Not having a computer for over two years has wrecked my typing abilities! Now I'm not on for a long enough time for me to become consistent with all the letters in the correct order, so I have to go back and delete them every few letters, then finish typing. I'm good enough, but not perfect! I have more speed than accuracy. I guess I'll have to start all over with microsoft word - I don't want to go back to yahoo chatrooms, and risk a virus just to become better at typing! I used to do this all day long, from the time I got up, to the time my old lady got off work at 5:00 P.M.

Sorry this is so long!

Anyway - back to our regular program.

~ Cobra Chris

I don't have any glue, but tomorrow I'll go to the hobbystore to get it, and some styrene shapes for the laser barrel heatsinks. A few days ago I did a little job that netted me enough money for glue, so full-steam-ahead! Here's a little something I did a couple nights ago. I guess this is all for naught seeing as it didn't come out the way I intended it to. I'll have to buy the expensive-assed corrugated styrene sheet I should've bought for this to begin with afterall!

This is the very beginning - right before scribing the lines into the styrene. I didn't use the master pattern since it was too thick, .40" - and the original one was .20" thickness, the same as corrugated edge on the Saturn V parts, which is the reverse of the ribbed panel (bottom photo of this post).





I'll have to redraw my lines for the sealab parts onto a new piece of styrene. This is the first picture I took after washing these two once separated from each other. I'll have to sand the styrene, and superglue off with 100 grit sandpaper, then smooth it out so the glue can adhere to both pieces evenly. I'll need to use another piece of .40" thick styrene so this will have the correct overlap on the end, and distance from the radiator panel the second time around.





This is the part I was talking about - it was sanded too short on one end. I took this picture after I separated these two, and washed them in the sink. I wanted to show the damage this caused by being glued together with superglue gel that was almost too dry to use. This just made a mess while I was applying it. It didn't dry evenly around the edges. Take my advice people: if your glue is like chewing gum - THROW IT AWAY!





The first run of scribe lines came out good, but at this point in time I was getting tired of doing this, so I stopped for the night, and picked it up again yesterday morning.





This was a lame attempt to show all the scribe lines a little clearer, but the flash washed out the other panel at the angle it sits at. The panel closest to the camera (left front) became the panel for the left wing, as the first one wasn't as good as I wanted it to be. I flipped this over since it wasn't scribed, and used it as a reverse from the right wing pattern it originally was. I traced out two right wing panels, and one left wing panel without really thinking about it at the time.





Each of these (like this post) has taken two hours to make from start to finish. It's still a waste of time, and effort, but I'll use these pieces for scratch making something else some other day - if I don't die before then.





These curled up from being scribed, as this made a relief on one side since I made five passes, which cut through most of the styrene. This makes spaces between the lines, and the panels between which causes them to spread out and away from each other.





This is the material that I need for these pieces - notice how it has ribbed, not scribed lines, and it has a slight inwards rounded over edge between the panels. For some reason, Plastruct also moulded the corrugated side of this on the reverse. This is two sided, which is probably why it's so expensive. I guess being moulded with two designs on one sheet was also the reason it was used for the original four foot model on two different parts. Why not take advantage of having two designed sides to one sheet, when it can be used for more than one thing?

[JAWS]

Kool. More pictures less typeing & you'll be fine. May I suggest usin Microsoft Paint to add arrows etc. keep at it.

[427 Cobra]

Update coming later today, I just have to find out who's been trying to open my mail - I keep getting packages with damage where it looks as though someone is interested in what I have delivered to my home! I got some supplies from Ed, and it will be a godsend as soon as I can get to cutting the parts I need to make the fuselage. Stay tuned, people - the ride's about to take off again.

~ Cobra Chris

[modelnutz]

Cool...you got the "stuff"

You're gonna love working with that foam.
Let me know if you have any questions about working with it.

[427 Cobra]

This isn't a joke, I was doodling the shape to see where I need to extend the fuselage from the canopy to the end of the nosecone, and the hyperdrive motivator in accordance to the scale of the original model. I'm going to use these proportions to upscale the diagram to four foot length. This will help me to correct my symmetry to the correct proportions with the angles of the fuselage panels. I don't have a definitive X-wing model to follow from, so using photos, and scaling to the correct proportions in a smaller scale will help me make this with little, or no correcting as much as possible before converting to full size plans. This will be like making an RC plane in every respect. I'll need to ensure this comes out perfectly - I'm running out of time to do this, and 0.40" thick styrene sheet. Whatever materials, and supplies I have will be needed to finish the greeblies on the fuselage (hyperdrive motivator), and wings.

I think I have a little more tweaking to the length of the fuselage between the canopy, and nosecone. The angle of the fuselage around the canopy will be the hardest part, as this needs to be a perfect fit between the two, even though the canopy will be moulded into the fuselage.





A distance shot to show this is very close to the correct shape of the X-wing fuselage. The wings are already started, but I need to adjust the fit between the two for an exact scale match. This will complete the plans, and ensure correct proportion, and symmetry.





This is some type of strange foam that Ed (Modelnutz) sent me. It looks like the balsa wood foam that I've been hearing so much about ( I hope). I just need to figure out how I'm going to cut this down with as little waste as possible. This (balsa foam) has had rave reviews from modelers the world over since I've been on the modeling forums. I'm very glad to (finally) have some, or something similar to experiment with. Thanks, Ed!




There are balsa strips in this box, which looks like it's been tampered with! The tape is broken on the very end that Ed cut down to save width, and length, and some asshole's decided to try to sneak a peek without being too obvious! The rest of this is intact, which is why I believe it to be the work of the postal "service" which is notorious for stealing from its' customers! I need to report this right away! I've been having trouble with my mail/post being opened lately. <--- VERY PISSED OFF!!




Cut open.




Tape intact.

[79 Daytona]

Looking GOOD!!!! Can't wiat to see more.

[427 Cobra]

I just got a huge streak of inspiration after looking at these photos. The split fuselage design is what I'm going to use. I figure that I can make balsa wood sections much like an RC plane with sheet styrene vacuum formed over it. This will allow me to make the two materials stick together, and share the same shape while fitting into a regular oven. I'll make a similar shape to the X-wing below for the fuselage pieces to go together, so that they can be cast without warpage, or deformation.

This will allow for it to go together in easier to handle sections, and I can put alignment pins in each part all along the fuselage for perfect alignment! All you'd have to do as a modeler is putty over the seams, run an Ex-acto knife through the scribe lines while the putty's wet and sand smooth once dry. I can't get razor sharp edges with having to cast each fuselage - that's something that can only be done under tight controls that I just don't have the equipment, or money to afford! I'll make these so they'll be a tight joint, but it won't be guaranteed perfectly seamless once joined, since I can't control the casting process, or any irregularities known with casting compounds.



I had planned to use a similar method of top half/bottom half construction as the kit in these pictures with multiple sections joined together. I just needed a picture of this, so everyone can see what the hell I'm talking about! I still need to iron out the vault/ buttplate, as I had to tear apart a few pieces that will need to be remade since they were wrong. This is going to set me back a couple days. I don't know if this kit below is two solid pieces with a separation in the fuselage, or hollow, but mine will be hollow inside to allow for an armature, and lighting options.

[427 Cobra]

Here's the general shape. Unfortunately, I can't trace the actual size to the correct dimensions since the fuselage will take more styrene sheet to compensate for the overall coverage of the underlying structure while vac-forming. I'm half way there now, I just need to make a vaccum former. This will give me most of the dimensional shape of this once formed over my balsa frame. I'll break this down into three separate pieces to be cast in resin form. The "R2" socket is obviously too big, but I only drew it, for a reference point. I still have yet to scale, and create the parts for the hyperdrive, but all the will come as soon as I have the fuselage properly measured out. Right now I hear the wing sections calling my name.......

[modelnutz]

CC...the foam is just good old urethane foam.
Balsa foam is much softer and way dustier to work.
Also, Balsa foam's nowhere near as strong as the stuff I sent to you.

[dbhs]

Glad to see you back on this Chris. Keep the updates coming. I think you're right about skinning the wood with styrene.

[427 Cobra]

I figured this was balsa, but it's very dense, and hard to the touch. It's OK, even if it's not balsa - the harder it is, the easier it will be to sand! I can't wait to get to it.

A little more of an actual update. This is what I've been working on for the last few hours, only to find out that I have to go back to the hobby shop to get more U shaped channel. I have enough to make four lengths, but not enough to finish the rear sealab panels for both wings. The groove panels look good though!


Starting over.


This is the sealab (white) panel before I smeared the glue all over to seal the edges between styrene, and acrylic .





I hope my computer doesn't end up like this - I found a bunch of filth at the bottom of the tower this afternoon - I can only imagine what the rest of it looks like inside! I took the guts from an old computer I got from my friend down the street. I wanted these parts for scratch build projects.





A new beginning

The sealab panel in progress.









These aren't from kits, or kit parts, these all scratch made, as they were on the original model. This is going to be huge - I hope you have the room for this, Jase! I'll post a comparison between this, and the Captain Cardboard kit. Each of these little pieces is T-track sanded narrow on one end, with the top sanded at an angle toward the back with a little bit of the top of the T shaved down to make the shapes you see. These are glued separately at the back of the U shaped channel.

After seeing all these details, I have more of an appreciation for how much more realistic the design of the four footer is. This has much more plausable, and understandable features than the small X-wings do. This is only because such detailing isn't possible to make, or see while filming something so small - it's too bad because the large version is much more believable to the eye with all its' detail, and there's more of it! It's just like a model cars' detailing verses the real thing - the bigger version has more realistic as opposed to the smaller one, the same type of situation applies here. I just wish that they gave this more film time in Jedi - that would've shown the massive undertaking that the hyperdrive motivator itself is among the other details that are readily viewable.





All these have yet to be glued, except the U channel on the far right end of the table. I just wanted to show these as soon as possible. Tomorrow I back up all my computer files, and clean it out. I hope my hard drive doesn't blow up before then! It's been doing some weird things today, mostly software problems.






These U channels, and T track pieces are placed here for example. They still have a little clean up, and I need to measure the spaces between them to ensure correct spacing before I can glue them in place. After I make this side, I'll have to do the same to the left panel.







A closer view from above.

[MonsieurTox]

Glad to see this update.

That's a good start on the sealab parts, keep up the good work !

[427 Cobra]

Thanks, Julien! I'm just beginning on these. There are some other parts that go on these, but those will have to wait. I messed up the left panel yesterday, and I'll have to remake it today.


This is the mostly finished right wing panel. I still have yet to place the small chip on the top left in the correct spot - I was trying to do this from memory, but it's just a little off. I'm not going to replace it now, I have to make an all new left panel. I accidentally misplaced the sealab panel with a slightly crooked side when I glued it - I hadn't noticed until it was too late, and the glue had already set! I couldn't use the same method to remove it, as I did the other one.








You can't see the chevron (radiator panel) has lines on it, but it does. This is also too big for the correct shape of the four foot monster, but it is correct for the smaller X-wings from the original movie. This is proportionate to the 18" 1/2 studio scale models. but it's not for this one. I can't take it off, or redo this now this it's glued, it'll ruin the panel, and the acrylic under it trying to remove styrene, and glue. You'd see a telltale "witness line" where the glue was. This stuff is also caustic, so it eats into the plastics. It'll just have to stay this way. I was hoping to have this done before the holidays, but so many setbacks....

I want this done so bad, so I can paint my own version, but it won't happen before Christmas with all the holiday shipping that will be going on now! This would make a great Christmas present for me! I wanted to have this cast before the end of the month, but I need a vac-former now.




Here you can finally see the lines that are in this panel.





This is/was the panel for the left side - I trashed it because of the paint stripper I used removed more acrylic around the edges that I wanted it to. This made a mess out what was left once the styrene came off. I should've been more careful, since I knew that it softens plastics, but I was desparate to remove the two panels from each other without making a huge sanding mess. It'll take less time for me to make a new panel than it would to attempt to save the old one, which I just took the protective covering off LAST NIGHT!

Look carefully, and you'll see the edge where I broke this in half to keep me from being tempted to use it anyway. I did this over the sink this morning. All this because I glued the styrene panel on facing the wrong way! I hope to have good news later today, as I have to go outside, and freeze while making a new intake panel to replace this one. Joy, oh, joy! These are angled to join the other panels at a 45 degree angle, which I'll have to sand into the new part. Wish me luck!

[427 Cobra]

Another new beginning. This took me about twenty minutes to make from start to finish - believe it, or not! It took me another half hour to make it smooth, and even all the way around, and surface it for gluing. I had to bevel the edges, which is what took the longest. This still has the protective cover over it in this picture, it was sad that I had to sand all the gloss off it to make the parts stick together once glued.






Another shot for comparison between the old, and the new.



Please study all the pictures of the old acrylic panel. This is what modeling stupidity looks like. I'm not punishing you all with a lot of pictures of the same thing, I just want this to be burned into your memory - NEVER USE PAINT STRIPPER TO REMOVE GLUED PLASTICS!!!!

I have used this technique before, but that was to remove paint, and plastic from a model. This method does work if you are trying to make an inpenatrable weld between plastic pieces, but only in a small amount. This is what's known as "plastic welding". This would've worked at removing the styrene sheet had I been more careful with the stripper, and not allowed it to set so long, and slop over the sides where I didn't want it.















If you look closely, you can see that this cracked in places from the heat of the stripper in its' chemical reaction with the acrylic. I saved what I could after rescuing this from destruction, I'll use the rest for reinforcement. I'll just cut off the really bad part, and sand the rest with 100 grit to smooth it. I could've just masked this off last night, then sanded with 60 grit until I got through most of the styrene before gouging into the acrylic below, but I was too impatient!





Back to our regular program. I love how the glue beads, and shows wet even in the picture with this crappy camera. This is how I keep my glue from seeping out the sides in a oozing mess. This was glued together with the Bob Smith industries glue. I'm using two differnet types, and brands for this, thin, and medium. The thin closes gaps where the thicker stuff doesn't get into. The thicker is what I'll use for large surfaces, and thin to seal around edges. So far this has worked very well with no problems!






This is as far as I can go for tonight - I need more U shaped channel before this can go to the end. It's mostly done, so I'll get more plastruct tomorrow, or saturday. I need to work on the engine bays next, then work the wings together. The other parts I've started but haven't finished will take the rest of the week to get done. I wish I had casting resin for the right wing panel - I would've copied that, and saved myself a little time, and effort. Oh, well...... This will be mostly scratch made, so I can't complain. I didn't want to leave you guys with the trash/bin being the last photo update of the day! I hope to have more tomorrow, since most of this went so fast today, maybe I can keep rolling with this.

[dbhs]

Ummmm....

Trash modeling?
You've lost me here.
This is the most realistic model of a trash can yet.

[427 Cobra]

Sorry, Doug - it is my best work to date! It's not every day that I get to model trash bins/cans. I threw this in because I thought I was through with it, but the beat goes on. Maybe I'll use the piece for another part. Who knows? It sure does look like it belongs in there.

~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

WOW!!! My 1000th post! I thought I'd be a lot further with 1000 posts, and 20 pages. Oh, well.

Here's the latest. I would've had this done earlier, but today's the only chance I had to get to the hobby store.

[79 Daytona]

Outstanding work that looks just GREAT!!!!!