Hero Version Tie Fighter

[DarthDuck]

(03-22-2010, 05:29 PM)427 Cobra Wrote:

(03-13-2010, 11:21 AM)DarthDuck Wrote: So the resin keys inside the mounts were removed and if you look closely you'll see where the slot of the armature is almost visible within the resin mount. A lil CA and paint will eventually cover that though and final sizing isn't done yet since it appears those four lil "pads/squares" which protrude out aren't quite the same from inner to outer. .

Elmers' brand wood filler, Don. That's what I use to remove the irregularities, and small imperfections that superglue can't. The big plus is that you don't need a solvent like actone,or lacquer thinner to remove it, it's soft, and it's waterbased. This stuff dries hard as a rock, and has very little shrinkage, so you can use it for gap filling, and any areas where superglue can't be simply applied, then sanded flat. A lot of people don't know that just because they've sanded a superglue spot down that it isn't perfectly smooth. I used to be one of them. It's hard to see if there is a tiny bit of unevenness in a part, but I use Elmers' applied with an old credit card like Bondo - the two part resin, not the red spot putty. There're no toxic fumes, and it can be washed out of clothing unlike solvent based products.

Well, that seems like a good trick too! I like a few methods already including Tamiya putty thinned with lacquer thinner, same with Miliput. Both are easy to work with and the Miliput as it's setting up can be smoothed with a lil saliva on a fingertip or spatula, easily. But really, this gap is so small just a lil thick CA put inside the gap will close it right up. Actually the first coat of primer will probably fill it.

But I'll store that tip for future use as well!