12-20-2009, 08:28 PM
Ok –
Here’s where I am with the lighting.
I found these bulbs today that are about 9/16†diameter (about 14mm for you metric guys). They work on 12V AC and I also found a socket that they fit in that also fits perfectly inside the engine tubes. Unfortunately the store didn’t have any bulbs that run on 9V. They had a bunch more like this and one size smaller that run on a variety of lower voltages (between 2.3 and 6.7) and these were all replacement bulbs for flashlights that work with C and D batteries. They also didn’t have any that run on 18V but did have one that runs on 24V.
These bulbs cost $2 each and the sockets are $3 each.
This is the link to Evans Design’s LEDs for 12V.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html#
I like how the light looks on the engine bell with this light. So I’m thinking I can use the 12V LEDs in the cockpit connected to these lights in the engines. I’d like to have the option to mount the model from either the bottom or side but I’ll probably never mount it from the front or back. If I can run a power lead out of the side and the bottom and just use one at time I think that will work. The one not being used just needs to be capped off under the cover so it doesn’t short out. It will also need a long enough lead to connect to the power supply source.
Phil, If you can figure out a resistor that can step the power down from 18V (2 9V batteries) to 12V then these should work for you.
It’s been a while since I studied electricity in school but found this http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/battery5.htm and it seems you’re right about getting 18V from 2 batteries with a serial connection. In fact, if that diagram is right, couldn’t you just add two 1.5V batteries to the 9V and have the 12 volts?
I can see where this will get difficult if the wires run through the pipe support as I’ve done on other models. I may just wire to the bottom and have the pipe supports for ‘accuracy’s sake’ on the other sides but no lighting connection. I need to think about that some more.
Just for reference, my engine bell is just about 2-7/32†diameter.
Photos of the parts and wired up.
![[Image: GAL356-5.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-5.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-6.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-6.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-7.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-7.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-8.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-8.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-9.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-9.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-10.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-10.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-11.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-11.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-12.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-12.JPG)
![[Image: GAL356-13.JPG]](http://www.hanshortes.com/dbhsmodeler/Diary/GAL356-13.JPG)
It was hard to get the exposure right on the camera. I'd say the actual brightness was somewhere between these 2 photos. Pretty bright.
Here’s where I am with the lighting.
I found these bulbs today that are about 9/16†diameter (about 14mm for you metric guys). They work on 12V AC and I also found a socket that they fit in that also fits perfectly inside the engine tubes. Unfortunately the store didn’t have any bulbs that run on 9V. They had a bunch more like this and one size smaller that run on a variety of lower voltages (between 2.3 and 6.7) and these were all replacement bulbs for flashlights that work with C and D batteries. They also didn’t have any that run on 18V but did have one that runs on 24V.
These bulbs cost $2 each and the sockets are $3 each.
This is the link to Evans Design’s LEDs for 12V.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html#
I like how the light looks on the engine bell with this light. So I’m thinking I can use the 12V LEDs in the cockpit connected to these lights in the engines. I’d like to have the option to mount the model from either the bottom or side but I’ll probably never mount it from the front or back. If I can run a power lead out of the side and the bottom and just use one at time I think that will work. The one not being used just needs to be capped off under the cover so it doesn’t short out. It will also need a long enough lead to connect to the power supply source.
Phil, If you can figure out a resistor that can step the power down from 18V (2 9V batteries) to 12V then these should work for you.
It’s been a while since I studied electricity in school but found this http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/battery5.htm and it seems you’re right about getting 18V from 2 batteries with a serial connection. In fact, if that diagram is right, couldn’t you just add two 1.5V batteries to the 9V and have the 12 volts?
I can see where this will get difficult if the wires run through the pipe support as I’ve done on other models. I may just wire to the bottom and have the pipe supports for ‘accuracy’s sake’ on the other sides but no lighting connection. I need to think about that some more.
Just for reference, my engine bell is just about 2-7/32†diameter.
Photos of the parts and wired up.
It was hard to get the exposure right on the camera. I'd say the actual brightness was somewhere between these 2 photos. Pretty bright.
.
Sometimes I build and think and sometimes I just build.
Sometimes I build and think and sometimes I just build.

