This is going to be a LONG story, so get ready. . . 
This is my second CR Galactica project build, this time an (authorized) commission for a third party. It also grants me the distinction of having built 3 battlestars (not including mockups and prototype structures). That may be a new world record?
Anyway, I have been busy with this plus many other things lately, so sorry about not posting anything sooner. For example, we are relocating out of Seattle and have been looking for a house. That finally came together and we are now in the process of packing to move. Also, the weather is getting ready to turn cold here, so I need to get as much building done as possible in the next few weeks. It's going to be a busy Fall!
This build started with the head section. Before anything could be done, however, a lot of prep work was required. I began by making numerous modifications to the design of the structure. The original build was so complex, it took months to complete just that one section. The number of parts was staggering (over 400 numbered parts, not including duplicates). To make things easier this time, I wanted to streamline it as much as possible.
Special Jigs/Tooling
As an aid in assembling the parts as precisely as possible, I developed a special jig made of machined aluminum. This provided a perfectly level work surface with multiple slots to facilitate bolting parts to the table. Unfortunately, the “T-slots†were too small for standard 5/16 threaded T-slot bolts. Thus, I had to fashion my own hardware using 1/4-20 threaded set screws (i.e. headless bolts) in various lengths plus T-nuts to accomplish the same functionality.
The final table was 15 inches deep by 30 inches wide. It includes four leveling feet at the corners. Overall, it works brilliantly. . .
Work Shop Safety
With a suitable work surface, the next challenge to overcome was work area safety. I spent many, many hours in the shop working on the last CR build. Two of the most important shop concerns are lighting and ventilation. To provide a bright enough work area, I had installed several shop-type fluorescent light fixtures overhead. Because the ceiling in my garage/shop is a standard height of 8 ft, hanging these fixtures meant the bulbs were only about a foot or so from my head.
Well, it turns out fluorescent lights emit a LOT of UV radiation. In fact, there are two types of UV rays -- UV-A and UV-B. The first type are present in natural sunlight, the latter type not so much. Wouldn’t you know it, UV-B rays cause DNA damage and skin cancer. And, typical fluorescent lights crank out large amounts of UV-B rays.
I discovered all this because I was getting sunburned from working in my shop -- even in the middle of Winter! (Remember, these lights are only a foot or so away from my head. Maybe if the ceilings were taller it would not have been as bad.) Once I figured out what was happening, I located UV sleeve filters to fit over all the fluorescent tubes. These were not cheap, but they seem to work great and I no longer get a sunburn from working in the shop. These filters do reduce light output somewhat, but they also provide color correction to turn cold fluorescent tubes into something resembling natural sunlight. In addition, they also help reduce eye strain. Overall, this was a very worthwhile investment.
What interesting problems we Galactica builders have to overcome?! LOL
Ventilated Work Area
The second challenge I had to deal with is one we have discussed here before. The glues and solvents needed for working with both styrene and acrylic are quite toxic. Many modelers routinely use these solvents without being concerned about how it might affect their health. Being short-sighted here, however, can cost you big time in the long run.
I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to use these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is required. Although it is not widely known, the manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is required. These can cost a lot of money.
One solution I had in mind was fashioning some sort of ventilated work booth in a corner of the shop. I searched and searched online but the only examples I could find were custom built for industrial/factory settings. These setups cost many thousands of dollars. It took a LOT of research to come up with a DIY setup that I could use in my small shop. But, after a lot of time and effort, I finally put together something that worked.
As with most projects, there are multiple challenges to overcome. The fan that provides the ventilation must be spark-proof. Since this fan is venting air containing flammable fumes, a standard fan simply will not do. Many people make the mistake of using ordinary fans in their home-brew spray booths because they think the filter will provide some protection. Filters, however, only trap particulate matter in the air. They do not remove solvents. Thus, any ordinary fan can provide a source for ignition and can potentially cause a fire. If you are concentrating the fumes from the solvents in a small area such as a spray booth, the risk intensifies.
Unfortunately, a truly spark-proof fan is an industrial item. I discovered the prices started at about $700 US for such fans. This was WAY out of my budget for this project. In the end, I discovered an online post where someone recommended the use of marine bilge blowers. These are specifically designed to ventilate the engine compartments on a boat where gasoline vapor may be present in the air. Since gasoline is about as flammable as you can get, anything rated for use in such an environment would be more than sufficient for my needs. But, these blowers run on 12V so that presented new challenges in terms of wiring (see below).
I wanted a booth that I could work inside while gluing and have the fumes safely carried away. This meant I would be using it for hours at a time (unlike a typical spray booth). I chose to make it out of clear acrylic to let all available light in and not require any extra lights. The final dimensions were 4 feet wide, about 3 feet tall, and 2 feet deep. This is what was needed to accommodate any major section of the Galactica.
With the booth itself designed, I opted to use dust removal gear for extracting the fumes. I found the largest dust collection port available -- called the “Big Gulp†-- and designed it into the back of the cabinet. (In fact, I used two of them.) I then created custom brackets and hose connections to the bilge blowers. Each blower uses a standard 4 inch hose. To route the air outside, I came up with a custom adapter that combined the two 4-inch hoses into one large 8-inch ventilator hose. All this was mocked up in 3D using Rhino as the final design ended up being rather complex.
The final step was the wiring. Again, the idea was to create a spark-free environment. This meant adding anti-spark measures to the electrical circuitry. (Isn’t it amazing how complicated projects can get? All this just to suck out some fumes. . .) I wired in diodes as needed to keep the relays and switches from arcing. Even though I studied electrical engineering in college and I had a good bit of experience with 12 volt wiring, I had gotten quite rusty over the years, so it took a good bit of research to figure out all the specs that were needed for this project.
The final step was a heavy-duty power supply. I ordered a 20-amp unit and hooked everything up. The test occurred on a hot summer day. Each blower is rated at 240 cubic feet per minute and draws a hefty 6 amps. With a 20-amp supply, I figured there was more than enough capacity. But, the power supply got way too warm to be safe. This was because I used a traditional linear power supply with heatsinks. Since everything is made so cheaply these days, they did not include a fan to keep it cool.
I did some further research to find a quality power supply and learned about Astron Corporation. These supplies are rated for continuous use and are favored by amateur radio operators. They are not cheap, but you definitely get what you pay for. I ordered a 30-amp switching power supply with a built-in fan and both volt and amp meters. This one works perfectly and powers the booth for hours on end without getting over-taxed. In fact, the booth is so powerful, I often just use it with one fan at a time.
To make the booth even more efficient, I designed a flip-up front that reduces the front opening by about 1/3. With the door in the down position, the ventilation is increased for greater air flow. With the door up, I get more access through a wider front opening, but less air is drawn across the work surface because the opening is larger.
Construction Finally Begins
Like I said, it took a LOT of prep work just so I could start construction on this project. With a safe work environment, I am able to spend hours at a time in the shop in relative comfort. I no longer get headaches from the fumes and I don’t have to take frequent breaks to get fresh air. The work booth works great for gluing, soldering, and even painting. All that’s needed to turn it into a spray booth are furnace filters over the air intakes (plus something to protect the inside from overspray).
Construction commenced when a very large box arrived containing all the parts for both the head and neck sections. I started by assembling a custom-designed jig, then I started building the core portions of the head structure. A pipe sleeve fits over the round pipe and provides a means for attaching the bulkheads. This part has been streamlined from last time. The mouth trenches, however, are still complex because they are tricky to build no matter what. The mouth is not straight but crooked to match the character of the original. I had to find a way to build it on a flat surface, yet maintain the correct curvature. Also, the vertical wall inside each trench has to be drilled through for routing fiber optics. I chose to make this from styrene as acrylic would be too hard to drill. But, styrene transmits some light. This meant I had to paint the back side of the entire mouth trench to prevent potential light leaks.
Like I said, there are a LOT of little details in this project!
The last step in building the core structure was making the removable top hatch. This is a rather complicated but effective design that integrates the fiber optics into the hatch. Thus, when you lift off the hatch, the fibers are not in your way and it can be completely removed from the rest of the head section (unlike the original). A separate LED bulb and wire harness are hidden inside. To remove the hatch, all you have to do is unplug a 2-wire harness.
Once the core structure was complete, I could begin test fitting the skins. This is where I am at right now. The top skin is being fitted as we speak. Even though the top is divided into four separate sections, I am taping all the skins together to fit them as a unit. Once fitted, they will be carefully glued in place. Then, it will be time to start work on the bottom.
This is my second CR Galactica project build, this time an (authorized) commission for a third party. It also grants me the distinction of having built 3 battlestars (not including mockups and prototype structures). That may be a new world record?
Anyway, I have been busy with this plus many other things lately, so sorry about not posting anything sooner. For example, we are relocating out of Seattle and have been looking for a house. That finally came together and we are now in the process of packing to move. Also, the weather is getting ready to turn cold here, so I need to get as much building done as possible in the next few weeks. It's going to be a busy Fall!
This build started with the head section. Before anything could be done, however, a lot of prep work was required. I began by making numerous modifications to the design of the structure. The original build was so complex, it took months to complete just that one section. The number of parts was staggering (over 400 numbered parts, not including duplicates). To make things easier this time, I wanted to streamline it as much as possible.
Special Jigs/Tooling
As an aid in assembling the parts as precisely as possible, I developed a special jig made of machined aluminum. This provided a perfectly level work surface with multiple slots to facilitate bolting parts to the table. Unfortunately, the “T-slots†were too small for standard 5/16 threaded T-slot bolts. Thus, I had to fashion my own hardware using 1/4-20 threaded set screws (i.e. headless bolts) in various lengths plus T-nuts to accomplish the same functionality.
The final table was 15 inches deep by 30 inches wide. It includes four leveling feet at the corners. Overall, it works brilliantly. . .
Work Shop Safety
With a suitable work surface, the next challenge to overcome was work area safety. I spent many, many hours in the shop working on the last CR build. Two of the most important shop concerns are lighting and ventilation. To provide a bright enough work area, I had installed several shop-type fluorescent light fixtures overhead. Because the ceiling in my garage/shop is a standard height of 8 ft, hanging these fixtures meant the bulbs were only about a foot or so from my head.
Well, it turns out fluorescent lights emit a LOT of UV radiation. In fact, there are two types of UV rays -- UV-A and UV-B. The first type are present in natural sunlight, the latter type not so much. Wouldn’t you know it, UV-B rays cause DNA damage and skin cancer. And, typical fluorescent lights crank out large amounts of UV-B rays.
I discovered all this because I was getting sunburned from working in my shop -- even in the middle of Winter! (Remember, these lights are only a foot or so away from my head. Maybe if the ceilings were taller it would not have been as bad.) Once I figured out what was happening, I located UV sleeve filters to fit over all the fluorescent tubes. These were not cheap, but they seem to work great and I no longer get a sunburn from working in the shop. These filters do reduce light output somewhat, but they also provide color correction to turn cold fluorescent tubes into something resembling natural sunlight. In addition, they also help reduce eye strain. Overall, this was a very worthwhile investment.
What interesting problems we Galactica builders have to overcome?! LOL
Ventilated Work Area
The second challenge I had to deal with is one we have discussed here before. The glues and solvents needed for working with both styrene and acrylic are quite toxic. Many modelers routinely use these solvents without being concerned about how it might affect their health. Being short-sighted here, however, can cost you big time in the long run.
I had been using WeldOn solvents for gluing acrylic for years. In fact, I had even used this stuff indoors which, it turns out, was a big mistake. The only safe way to use these chemicals is outdoors. Even then, special protection is required. Although it is not widely known, the manufacturer actually states that a regular paint/chemical respirator will not protect you. An air-supplied respirator is required. These can cost a lot of money.
One solution I had in mind was fashioning some sort of ventilated work booth in a corner of the shop. I searched and searched online but the only examples I could find were custom built for industrial/factory settings. These setups cost many thousands of dollars. It took a LOT of research to come up with a DIY setup that I could use in my small shop. But, after a lot of time and effort, I finally put together something that worked.
As with most projects, there are multiple challenges to overcome. The fan that provides the ventilation must be spark-proof. Since this fan is venting air containing flammable fumes, a standard fan simply will not do. Many people make the mistake of using ordinary fans in their home-brew spray booths because they think the filter will provide some protection. Filters, however, only trap particulate matter in the air. They do not remove solvents. Thus, any ordinary fan can provide a source for ignition and can potentially cause a fire. If you are concentrating the fumes from the solvents in a small area such as a spray booth, the risk intensifies.
Unfortunately, a truly spark-proof fan is an industrial item. I discovered the prices started at about $700 US for such fans. This was WAY out of my budget for this project. In the end, I discovered an online post where someone recommended the use of marine bilge blowers. These are specifically designed to ventilate the engine compartments on a boat where gasoline vapor may be present in the air. Since gasoline is about as flammable as you can get, anything rated for use in such an environment would be more than sufficient for my needs. But, these blowers run on 12V so that presented new challenges in terms of wiring (see below).
I wanted a booth that I could work inside while gluing and have the fumes safely carried away. This meant I would be using it for hours at a time (unlike a typical spray booth). I chose to make it out of clear acrylic to let all available light in and not require any extra lights. The final dimensions were 4 feet wide, about 3 feet tall, and 2 feet deep. This is what was needed to accommodate any major section of the Galactica.
With the booth itself designed, I opted to use dust removal gear for extracting the fumes. I found the largest dust collection port available -- called the “Big Gulp†-- and designed it into the back of the cabinet. (In fact, I used two of them.) I then created custom brackets and hose connections to the bilge blowers. Each blower uses a standard 4 inch hose. To route the air outside, I came up with a custom adapter that combined the two 4-inch hoses into one large 8-inch ventilator hose. All this was mocked up in 3D using Rhino as the final design ended up being rather complex.
The final step was the wiring. Again, the idea was to create a spark-free environment. This meant adding anti-spark measures to the electrical circuitry. (Isn’t it amazing how complicated projects can get? All this just to suck out some fumes. . .) I wired in diodes as needed to keep the relays and switches from arcing. Even though I studied electrical engineering in college and I had a good bit of experience with 12 volt wiring, I had gotten quite rusty over the years, so it took a good bit of research to figure out all the specs that were needed for this project.
The final step was a heavy-duty power supply. I ordered a 20-amp unit and hooked everything up. The test occurred on a hot summer day. Each blower is rated at 240 cubic feet per minute and draws a hefty 6 amps. With a 20-amp supply, I figured there was more than enough capacity. But, the power supply got way too warm to be safe. This was because I used a traditional linear power supply with heatsinks. Since everything is made so cheaply these days, they did not include a fan to keep it cool.
I did some further research to find a quality power supply and learned about Astron Corporation. These supplies are rated for continuous use and are favored by amateur radio operators. They are not cheap, but you definitely get what you pay for. I ordered a 30-amp switching power supply with a built-in fan and both volt and amp meters. This one works perfectly and powers the booth for hours on end without getting over-taxed. In fact, the booth is so powerful, I often just use it with one fan at a time.
To make the booth even more efficient, I designed a flip-up front that reduces the front opening by about 1/3. With the door in the down position, the ventilation is increased for greater air flow. With the door up, I get more access through a wider front opening, but less air is drawn across the work surface because the opening is larger.
Construction Finally Begins
Like I said, it took a LOT of prep work just so I could start construction on this project. With a safe work environment, I am able to spend hours at a time in the shop in relative comfort. I no longer get headaches from the fumes and I don’t have to take frequent breaks to get fresh air. The work booth works great for gluing, soldering, and even painting. All that’s needed to turn it into a spray booth are furnace filters over the air intakes (plus something to protect the inside from overspray).
Construction commenced when a very large box arrived containing all the parts for both the head and neck sections. I started by assembling a custom-designed jig, then I started building the core portions of the head structure. A pipe sleeve fits over the round pipe and provides a means for attaching the bulkheads. This part has been streamlined from last time. The mouth trenches, however, are still complex because they are tricky to build no matter what. The mouth is not straight but crooked to match the character of the original. I had to find a way to build it on a flat surface, yet maintain the correct curvature. Also, the vertical wall inside each trench has to be drilled through for routing fiber optics. I chose to make this from styrene as acrylic would be too hard to drill. But, styrene transmits some light. This meant I had to paint the back side of the entire mouth trench to prevent potential light leaks.
Like I said, there are a LOT of little details in this project!
The last step in building the core structure was making the removable top hatch. This is a rather complicated but effective design that integrates the fiber optics into the hatch. Thus, when you lift off the hatch, the fibers are not in your way and it can be completely removed from the rest of the head section (unlike the original). A separate LED bulb and wire harness are hidden inside. To remove the hatch, all you have to do is unplug a 2-wire harness.
Once the core structure was complete, I could begin test fitting the skins. This is where I am at right now. The top skin is being fitted as we speak. Even though the top is divided into four separate sections, I am taping all the skins together to fit them as a unit. Once fitted, they will be carefully glued in place. Then, it will be time to start work on the bottom.
Charles Adams | www.StarshipBuilder.com | Follow me on Facebook
Author, MODEL DESIGN & BLUEPRINTING HANDBOOK, Volume 1 SECOND EDITION NOW AVAILABLE
Author, MODEL DESIGN & BLUEPRINTING HANDBOOK, Volume 1 SECOND EDITION NOW AVAILABLE