Four foot X-wing (ILM tribute)

[427 Cobra]

Nope! I'm going to cast this in multiples. These will be made from urethane resin. If I had to make more than one of these by hand,I wouldn't even have bothered with this kit!

[PB BB1]

Thats gonna be some kit! The attention to detail on the feathers in impressive. Looking forward to seeing more.

[79 Daytona]

I can understand that. That would be alot work for one kit.

[427 Cobra]

Thanks.guys! This is just the master I'm making right now,as this won't be built into a kit form. This will be cast by Jason Wright = Jasonwright1972. If there's enough interest,we'll offer this as a kit all the time. I'll make the armatures,and lighting kits for them. Meaning, that anyone who wants one can get it for $600.00 U.S. + shipping. Now much shipping will depend on zip code,as opposed to a flat rate. This will more fair than paying more than what it actually costs. Jason of course,gets his for free!

[79 Daytona]

That sounds great!! Now if i just had the money

[JAWS]

Unfortunately Cris's pricing was extremely ambitious for a project of this scale. To offer this as a kit with armiture & lighting would not cover costs. There is some serious homework that needs to go into this befroe any pricing is established & as much as I would like & be honored to produce this kit, it might be even a bit ambitious for myself. In saying that I am doing everything I can to prepare my skills for this project & try to offer it with Cris at a reasonable cost considering what needs to go into it. If I am unable to do it I am sure the one or more of the Big boys would snap this up as I believe Cris will produce the goods on this replica.

[427 Cobra]

I didn't see all the available materials for casting when I totalled all of this up. I was thinking of casting the fuselage myself originally,but the cost of resin,and rubber is expensive,no matter what type I use. I'll provide the lighting kits for these,and the armature. That's not a problem. Most of what we're facing is the feasability of producing a kit of this size,and being able to keep it affordable to all.

I don't do casting,so I decided to have Jason do it for me. I don't have the equipment,or the materials for casting anyway. I'd hoped that when I was going to have this cast that it wouldn't be as much as it turned out to be. There were a few variables that I was unaware of when I first quoted this price. This is what I hoped for,but I won't be able to sell these for $600.00,unless a lot of people sign up for one.


Maybe I should post an interest list for all those who would like one,and see how much cast costs will be,then post that for all to see. Then those who have the money right now can have one right away. We can adjust our prices by how many people can afford this compared to our overall costs. I figured if enough people bought one of these kits - then that would offset the cost,and we could sell this for a lower price.


Only the interest in this on all the forums will determine how much this will be after we find out how to get this done reasonably,and for a reasonable price for materials. Supply,and demand is what this all boils down to.

[427 Cobra]

This is the cylinder that I originally used for the laser canon. I put the styrene over it,but it was too thick on the end toward the heatsink. So,I had to remove it the hard way,and start over. I covered this with stripper to remove the styrene,and superglue. This ruined the surface of the PVC tube,so I had to sand it with 32 grit,150 grit,and finally 220 grit to make this straight,and smooth again.

I glued three layers of 0.20" inch thick sheet styrene to this before discovering that I needed to make this a lot thicker than it was in order to make this exactly the same as the ILM model,and for this to be in the proper scale. I glued two sheets of 0.40" thick sheet styrene to this,but the first sheet cracked in several places,as the diameter was too small,and tight for the plastic to adhere easily. This has slowed my progress on this part of the build.

The styrene was straight when I took it out of the box,but slightly bent from being rolled from the distrbutor. The second layer was a lot easier to glue to this. There was a small gap that I had to close,but it took a lot to get it sealed with styrene pieces,and superglue. It took rubber bands,and a piece of sheet styrene wrapped around this to keep it tight against the tube until the glue dried. I had to sand this again to smooth it. Now I need to shape the top edge taper,then glue the greeblies to it. I bought the aluminum tubing,and brass rod for this today. I hope to finish this tonight. If not all,at least most of this tonight,as I have to make two identical sides.








I originally scored this sheet (this tube is laying on) to make it easier to glue to the tube,but the score lines made flat shapes all the way around the outside of the tube,making it impossible to not have an octangonal surface to sand out.






These photos show that this was a mess,even when I resurfaced this with new sheet styrene. The plastic sticking out is what I used to fill the gap between the two ends of the sheet covering this tube. There's a smudge where a piece of styrene was glued to this.






Rough sanding marks indicate where I smooth this out,but it still needs finessing.








I had to insert more styrene into the end of this to close a tiny gap. It pays to measure your tubing - I wish this came out better than it did! I measured once,but I cut twice thinking it was a straight cut on both sides. Oh,well.... Remember kids....measure twice,cut ONCE!




The styrene pieces didn't go deep enough,so I had to reglue more to this to make it soild all the way around. I'm glad that this is only the master - I'd hate to make four of these individually! I scrawled a horrible drawing on this to get the scale for the greeblies that go on it. This will all be sanded off once these are made - superglue doesn't stick to graphite.






I tried to make small rings out of sheet styrene,but trying to drill holes,then cut close to the hole while holding this part with needlenose pliers in one hand while holding an emery board in the other hand to sand it to shape - is like skiing,and doing your taxes at the same time!

You can barely see the first attempt at doing this on the tiny acrylic rod with the styrene piece to the right of the styrene strip with all the holes drilled in it. I broke down after only five minutes of this monotony! This is why I decided that it would take less time for me to go to the hardware store,and buy the correct size aluminum tubing for this! I took this picture afterwards to show the difference between the two. The first one from aluminum rod is to the right of the styrene failure (straight down from the Exaco blade).








This is a closeup,so you can see what I'm talking about.



The materials I use for the job.



The finished parts waiting for the next step in construction.

[79 Daytona]

I guess when doing a model suck as this there is always something that has to be redone again and again but your work is really outstanding and i really can't wait to see what you do next.

[Wombat]

I might not post much in this thread but what you are doing is pretty damn amazing.
That you are tackling such a build is pretty full on,that you intend to make it a kit is just a real nice gesture for the fan's out there.
Good stuff CC,i'm sure it's gonna turn out just fine and be a very popular kit for the others to enjoy also!!

[427 Cobra]

(12-13-2009, 02:32 AM)79 Daytona Wrote: I guess when doing a model suck as this there is always something that has to be redone again and again but your work is really outstanding and i really can't wait to see what you do next.

Thank you once again for your compliments. This has been an arduos (difficult) journey so far! Unbeknown to any of us here,Your comments were a forshadowing of what's to come next - more redoing! This was to happen before I even posted those pictures. I found this out when looking at the brass pieces that I made for this later that night. (These are the cooling lines on an actual F-4 Phantom engine.) The acrylic rods I was going to use for the Whitley bomber landing gear are too small by 1/32" of an inch in the scale that the cooling lines are bent to. I had to go back to the hardware store,and get 1/8" inch diameter aluminum tubing. This makes it now correct according to the ILM models' proportions.

(12-13-2009, 09:55 AM)Wombat Wrote: I might not post much in this thread but what you are doing is pretty damn amazing.
That you are tackling such a build is pretty full on,that you intend to make it a kit is just a real nice gesture for the fan's out there.
Good stuff CC,i'm sure it's gonna turn out just fine and be a very popular kit for the others to enjoy also!!

Thank you Phil! This was my intention from the get-go. I wanted to make the most accurate model of this when I first saw it. I didn't think about making a four foot version,but I was going to make an original seventies ILM version with this paint detail. I was later inspired to do this in this scale when I read Lorne Petersons' interview about how this was filmed,and never used. What a waste....

Any way,I hoped to offer the Return of the Jedi version in all its' accuracy,and not just a four foot seventies model. This one has a lot of detail - more than even the models of the original movie did! I myself didn't like some of the features of this Jedi model at first,but I wouldn't blame anyone that bought one of these kits,and changed it to look more like the seventies version. I just wanted to make a tribute to the ILM guys with the accurate version of this model available to the public.

I want to thank everyone who has looked at this build,and waited patiently for the next step. If you think what you've seen so far is good - wait 'til I get to the R2-D2,and pilot figures! ~ Cobra Chris

OK. With that said,here's the latest. I haven't much more progress to show,as I've had to bend all the copper wire by hand. This stuff is very rigid. It's also coated with enamel,so I'll have to strip this coating off before I can solder these parts to each other. This will make a solid joint. I've also had to put a slight radius into all the metal,as it's very delicate,and I don't want to twist,or distort these parts. I have to very careful while doing this,so that these parts will be true once cast.

It's been even worse,as I have to straighten out the copper wire from being rolled onto the computer components I took it from - I drew this multiple times in between my thumb,and a 3/8" (1 cm) drill bit to smooth out the kinks. I further straighten the wire with a pair of needlenose pliers. This takes most of my time while making these pieces. That,and rebending the wire to copy the contours of each part to identical specifications. After making a master part - I have to go back,and change the bend in some of these parts,so that they are perfectly identical in shape.







The mess that is my work table.









Freshly minted piano frames. The one on the far left is the original. The solder joint from the original connection was too far into the part. I hate to waste anything,so this will be straightened,and reused for something else. Needless to say,I had to make a new one. This isn't too much trouble other that duplicating this shape by HAND. The small bend at the bottom was made by wrapping it around a 3/32" inch drill bit. Each one of these took about fifteen minutes to make - there's a lot of bending in each of these,including the cylinder radius.








Freshly cut new aluminum rods. The ends of these will have to be soldered shut,so they can be cast without tearing the mould while being removed. Silicone will fill every tiny crevice,and hole,so I have to master every part of this model accordingly.



A closer look at the latest brass cooling line I made. These took about a half hour to make altogether. Remember - these are all handmade with no bending device,other that a pair of needlenose pliers.

[79 Daytona]

The copper wire and the aluminum tubing is really going to bring that engine to life . I need to go back and look at the pic's of the 4 ft X-Wing i always heard that the detail on the 4 ft was some what different from the other X-Wings.

[Wombat]

(12-14-2009, 05:22 AM)427 Cobra Wrote: Thank you Phil! This was my intention from the get-go. I wanted to make the most accurate model of this when I first saw it. I didn't think about making a four foot version,but I was going to make an original seventies ILM version with this paint detail. I was later inspired to do this in this scale when I read Lorne Petersons' interview about how this was filmed,and never used. What a waste....

Any way,I hoped to offer the Return of the Jedi version in all its' accuracy,and not just a four foot seventies model. This one has a lot of detail - more than even the models of the original movie did! I myself didn't like some of the features of this Jedi model at first,but I wouldn't blame anyone that bought one of these kits,and changed it to look more like the seventies version. I just wanted to make a tribute to the ILM guys with the accurate version of this model available to the public.

I want to thank everyone who has looked at this build,and waited patiently for the next step. If you think what you've seen so far is good - wait 'til I get to the R2-D2,and pilot figures! ~ Cobra Chris

You are most welcome Chris!
Mate,i don't really no much about all the X Wing's,i like SW,who doesn't,but i'm a BSG person as you've probably noticed!I have seen pictures of the big 4 footer that Jase posted and also in a couple of book's i have.To me theres no mistaking what it is and personally think that doing it accurate like the real thing is the better way to go.Replica is replica even if people don't like the detailing different to the smaller SS one's.That you'll be even offering them a base to do such a thing if they desire should be pleasing enough for them by my book!
You mention the pilot and R2 figure's.I can imagine the R2 especially will be really cool with lighting and such in this sort of scale.Also the cockpit is gonna look pretty damn good being this size also.
Keep up the good work!!

[427 Cobra]

Thank you,sir! After seeing your builds,that is very reassuring.

Here's another ridiculously small update. This is a closeup shot of the piano frame mounted for example. This still needs a little tweaking at this time,so it's not glued to the Phantom engine. I soldered these after stripping the insulation off the wire.





A little closer shot. This is for detail. You can't really see the sanding,and tooling marks,but I tried to capture this in its' raw form anyway. You can't tell in any of these photos,but these are made from two sizes of wire,just as the original four foot X-wings' are.





Here's the piano frame for the other side in its' raw form. Each of these will be wetsanded with 600 grit before gluing. This will produce a smoother finish on the cast versions of this part.

Please note the prototype of these to the right.






This is what it'll look like when it's done. This tube looks a too big in diameter,but once all the greeblies are on this it'll be to scale,and it'll have the proper appearance to the original ILM model. This is half a days work. I had to bend,and sand forever to get these to look halfway respectable. These are soldered,as metal doesn't like superglue very well. It'll stick metal to plastic,but not metal to itself.






OOOHHH! Soft fuzzy memories shot. This came out like this for unknown reasons,but I was trying to show the other associated parts with it.





This what the photo above was to look like. I just wish I could take a picture of all the hard work,and sweat that went into making these from scratch,and all the bending,and bending,and rebending that it took to get them this far! The rest of the greeblies for this will be next step. Afterwards,this will be finished once the lip at the top of this tube is beveled,and banded.







Here're a couple of comparison shots for you to see what I'm trying to duplicate.

[JAWS]

Damn this is exciting. Can't wait to cast that!

[79 Daytona]

Looking GOOD!!!!

[427 Cobra]

Let it be said that I'm a humble person willing to admit his mistakes!

(12-15-2009, 03:10 PM)427 Cobra Wrote: This is what it'll look like when it's done. This tube looks a too big in diameter,but once all the greeblies are on this it'll be to scale,and it'll have the proper appearance to the original ILM model.

Let me correct myself. This tube looks too big because it is!!! I held this next to the afterburner today,and it IS too big in diameter,so I had to strip this - again!! Remember people,speed is nice,but accuracy MUST come first!

For those who are wondering - I edited out the background in this photo,as there was a bunch of junk hanging on the wall behind it. This was too much of a distraction,so I deleted it along with the bow on top of the cookie jar,and the refrigerator on the other side of the stove.
I feel there's enough clutter in this picture to look at with the tea kettle,spoon rest,glass cutting board,simmering pot,and cookie jar as well as the stove itself.



This is the homemade bandage I made out of masking tape. I pushed the knife blade I was using with my thumb. I taped it when it started to feel sore. (notice the hair stuck to the tape)



Any way,I'm so pissed right now!! Words can't describe it! I'm more disappointed than anything. I was so proud of my piano frames after all the hard work I did. Now,I'll have to reshape these to the 0.40" less diameter this tube is now. I didn't realise this was too big until after I held the two parts together. I'm glad I didn't glue anything to this yet!

I have to think like a model maker,not just a builder. I always test the fit,and the proportion before progressing to the next step,but this time I couldn't without knowing the exact size of these two once finished. This is difficult when trying to guess what this will be in relation to the overall diameter of the other parts associated with this part of the build. I figured that this would be correct,as it looked to skimpy when I held the afterburner to this before adding the last 0.40" sheet. I now realise that the parts laid on top of this give the Phantom engine it's bulk. Oh well,back to the drawing board!

Here's the proof. This afterburner is just a hair bigger that the Phantom body. This is only in the band of the afterburner. The Phantom engine is almost the same size in relation to this. After I sand this smooth (again) it'll actually be the correct diameter I'm looking for. This won't be noticable until all the greeblies are glued to this.

[79 Daytona]

I can understand where you are coming from it sure does sucks when you spend so much time working on a part and then find out it don't fit or like in your case it's the wrong size but i know in the long run your hard work is really going to pay off big time.

[427 Cobra]

Yes,it sucks when you have to redo your own work. I already have to redo other peoples' work when I shouldn't. I don't want to redo mine too!

A horrible rash has broken out on this part,causing it to break out in hives!

Actually,I melted some styrene pieces in a bath of acetone to soften them up. I then smeared these pieces into the depressions in the tube made from the knife blade going too deep while I was scraping it. This process makes the styrene pieces bond permanently to it. The styrene acts as a filler that bonds to itself. Once this has solidified,it makes an invisible repair when sanded smooth. I put this softened styrene on last night. It has since hardened,and is now ready to sand. I was so excited to see this worked exactly as it should the first time,that I couldn't wait to post pictures of it.

(Notice the burned piano frame on the bottom right corner.) This happened after I tried to remove masking tape from it that was used to hold it in the correct placement. The flame made the copper too soft (annealed it),so I could no longer use it.







I've since made a couple of new piano frames. One of these was 1/32"nd (1 mm) too small,so I disassembled it,and used the round wire for another piano frame to solder it to. I was unhappy with the idea of having to make new ones,but I have to ensure that these are correct! The one on the far right was a dismal failure. I made this one after I tried this the fourth time. I've made five of these altogether now. The piano frame in the middle will need a little more tweaking before being glued to the tube. Then I'll make the rest of the greeblies for this now that it's the correct diameter. I hate the idea of redoing every part of this,as it's slowed my progress,and there aren't too many more parts that I've made that need to be finished. I guess that this is just part of the game.

[JAWS]

Your perfectionism will pay off in the end Cris.

[79 Daytona]

Outstanding work on the new engine. I am really learning a lot from watch your work so keep the post coming.

[427 Cobra]

I'm glad that I can teach others what I know. This is what all these forums are about. I have thirty years experience doing this (scratchbuilding),so I should have something to for it! I'll be wearing my trashy old clothes I had from way back when to add to the overall ILM mojo when I start building this into a kit once cast by Jason. As soon as I get the parts from him that he has,I'll be working on the wings. This engine will be done by then. I still have to go back to the laser canons after this,and fix the mistakes on them,and finish the Saturn V engine housings. This will complete all the parts I've made so far.

This is the tube for the Phantom engine after a second time filling small holes,and depressions in the surface with sheet styrene softened with acetone. I put a small amount of acetone in a glass bowl to cover the styrene pieces. After about ten to fifteen minutes,this is ready to apply to my engine part with my fingers. I then smear it into the holes just enough to cover them over. Then after it has hardened for a few hours,I sand it smooth. This completes the process,and there is no evidence this ever happened to the finished product. It's quick,easy,and it leaves no trace of a repair.

[427 Cobra]

As you all probably now know,this is the kit I needed for the vault of the hyperdrive motivator. I'll recast this myself out of polyester resin,so I can cut the tank body to the length of the original ILM model without destroying the Tamiya model. The Gepard body is 3" 5/8 wide,and 7" 7/8 of an inch long. When cut down,the body of the Gepard tank will be 6" long. The overall height of the fuselage will be roughly about 8". The Salzo fuselage end is 3" from top to bottom.





You can see that this is the correct version for this kit. This Flakpanzer Gepard model is 1/35 scale.

[79 Daytona]

Looking GOOD!!! I am going to have to try the sheet styrene and acetone it looks like it works great.

[JAWS]

Nice work Cris. We're getting closer to the Iconic parts of this ship! Yehhooo. Im working on the parts this week so won't be long before I post them. Keep it up.

[427 Cobra]

OK,people. This is probably going to be my last post for a while. The holidays are upon us,and I need to take the stuff off the cardtable I usually work at. It'll be needed for the kids to eat on.

My birthday is saturday,so I'll be 100 miles away from home,and the internet anyway,as I'll be visiting relatives for the holidays. This is likely to be the last I have to offer before Christmas. If I can get the rest of this done before then,I'll post photos of it. There are a few other parts that need to be added to this before it's complete,but I wanted to show everyone what was happening in my recent absence from the forum.

This is the Stug reinforcement for the wing stabalizer. Please,keep in mind that this is all HANDMADE to the the approximate specifiacations of the original from acrylic,aluminum tubing,and sheet styrene.

This is made from 3 pieces of acrylic for the base. I originally made only 1 piece for this,but it was too thin,so I had to make it twice as thick. Although the light I was using was bright,and washed out all the details for the most part,there is a bevel across the top edge of this acrylic as per the ILM model.

This measures a little over 3" 1/2 inches long,or almost 9 cm. The semicirclar part (center) is comprised of 10 indidiual parts,and it took me over 2 hours to make. The rectangular part next to it (which still needs to be trimmed) is 4 parts,and though you can't see it,there are tiny lines scribed into this just like the original part. The number 8 shaped part took 6 tries for me to get correct . This is made from 5 pieces. The "arm looking parts,and the crossmember that they're glued to came first,and were nailed perfectly on the first try. The circular part on the end by itself is 2 pieces. Last,but not least,is the oblong piece (top left corner). This is made from 19 individual pieces of sheet styrene,and aluminum tubing - all cut,and shaped by hand. None of these small pieces are glued to the base yet,as I still need to make the other part to this.

When I have more time,and better opportunity,I'll take better photos of all these pieces in their details. I need to save batteries for family photos. If you have any questions,don't hesitate to ask. I might not reply right away,but I will check back periodically for responses.

I'll let the photos the rest of the story. Merry Christmas,and happy holidays!













This is for comparison.

[JAWS]

Hey your missing 2 bolts on the left side! Hahahah just stirring, but there are two bolts to go on that piece right.

[79 Daytona]

As always outstanding work!!!

And Happybirth day and Happy Holiday 427 Cobra!! I look forward to seeing more of your work in the new year!!

[427 Cobra]

(12-24-2009, 07:16 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Hey your missing 2 bolts on the left side! Hahahah just stirring, but there are two bolts to go on that piece right.

Actually,there are four more rivets that go on this,as well as the two bolts beside the rectangular piece. This is still in the main stages of completion.

(12-24-2009, 08:14 AM)79 Daytona Wrote: As always outstanding work!!!

And Happybirth day and Happy Holiday 427 Cobra!! I look forward to seeing more of your work in the new year!!

Thank you! This is the most hectic time of the year,so I'll be twice as busy as usual.



Still not done,but the holidays are taking up my free time with shopping,wrapping presents,and baking. Tomorrow we're having company for dinner. This WILL be the last I'll be able to post for a while. Most of this is done,but there are still small parts that need to be attached to the base. I had to juggle last minute shopping,cooking supper,wrapping presents,and finishing this up. There were some last minute changes I had to make to this.


I know that this doesn't look like much,but I had to make four versions of the small styrene piece in between the acrylic parts. This is very difficult to establish the correct angle of incidence between the corners,and the braces of the styrene supports. I also had to reposition the brass tube pieces that I cut,and shaved into rings. I had to wetsand a lot of uneveness out of these parts,and remove superglue smudges.

[JAWS]

Ahh you know me me Cris Im look for any gap I can be a smart ass on. Im Ausralian, thats what we do...

[79 Daytona]

Again outstanding work!!! They look GREAT!!

[PB BB1]

Happy birthday Cobra... hope its a good one!

Your progress continues to inspire me to work on more. There's a lot of... 'well at least i don't have to scratch this entire assembly.'

Damn good work, this thing is going to be a beaut.

[427 Cobra]

(12-27-2009, 01:45 AM)PB BB1 Wrote: Happy birthday Cobra... hope its a good one!

Your progress continues to inspire me to work on more. There's a lot of... 'well at least i don't have to scratch this entire assembly.'

Damn good work, this thing is going to be a beaut.

Thank you for the well wishing,but it wasn't. This is the worst birthday I've had in YEARS!! It'll be the last. See the thread in "Our forum" related to this.


I've had to scratch make all the parts of this Stug,except the metal parts.

Now,if you'll all excuse me - I need to go,and spend my Christmas money so I can drink myself into oblivion.

[PB BB1]

Very sorry to hear that... I'd buy you a brew myself.

[79 Daytona]

Same here. I am sorry to hear about your Birthday not turning out so good . I think we're all had Birthday's we're like to forget.

[427 Cobra]

Thanks,guys! I'm immersing myself in my work this week,but I'll be back after the new year. I've had to redo this Stug part since I posted the photos of this,as it was slightly wrong in its' depth of the styrene parts. I've since rebuilt this,and I'll post pics of this when I get the other parts I made finished.

I've been skipping around to break up the monotony,but that time has now passed. I need to finish all the parts I started. I bought new acrylic sheet last night,so I can finish the wings. These will be after I finish the other parts I started,so the fusealge will be after all this is done. I won't be on here until then,so stay tuned people,and don't lose heart! I'll return as soon as I can. I have to stay on target,and get this done.

Thank you all for staying with me,and for following this thread all this time. I'm just taking a break from the forum,so I can get some progress done. Being on here is fun,but it takes up a lot of my time. Just because I've left,it doesn't mean that I'm not coming back at all. I need this time for myself,and for my build. This will help me recover from the travesty that my birthday was made into last week,and to concentrate all my efforts into finishing this model.

Thank you all once again. ~ Cobra Chris

[427 Cobra]

OK. This is definately my last post of the year. It'll also be the last for a while.


These parts are just in the prototype stage. The "bowtie" is wrong,so I made two new ones since this picture was taken.





This is the styrene fascia that I had to redo. It was too far inward towards the acrylic backing. I took this shot to show that this is the correct depth now. I know that the picture is blurry,but even after replacing the batteries,taking all the Christmas photos killed them,so there wasn't much power left to take this with. You can still get an idea of the thickness needed for the flange to be right. These are the four white spars,and bottom flange that make the enclosure for the "bowtie" shaped piece,and the transfer casing under it.





The remnants of the old flange surround. This is one of the most trying parts of this build,as there are so many small peices that make up the bulk of the Stug reinforcement.




The flange detail "bowtie",and transfer casing.




The first two failed attempts.





I took multiple photos of this in an attempt to show all the fine details,and rivets that I made from drops of superglue gel. I applied these with the tip of a piece of sheet styrene shaved to a needle point.





This is it in its' finished form. You can't really see the rivets made from superglue,or the bolts made from acrylic rod in this photo,but this will give you an idea of what this should look like when glued together. I realise that being clear,all these tiny details are almost invisible. This is why I took so many photos.





Please note the acrylic rods to the left of the white square. These are supposed to resemble bolts. The original ILM model had these made from scratch with styrene,only they were asymmetrical in shape. I used acrylic rod to avoid having them mis-shapened.








You can't see them,but there are FOUR rivets that stand up above the surface of the acrylic base.









In this photo you can just barely see the two rivets by the slanted greebly.






If you have an irregular 17" or 19" inch screen like mine - scroll to the right,and you'll actually be able to almost see all four of these rivets that I painstakingly made from several drops of superglue gel to make each of these stand up enough to have a convex shape. I wetsanded them with 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper.






A closeup of the parts that need to be cast separately. I can't master these to be cast as one piece,as there are undercuts,and details that require this to be three separate pieces during the casting process.






A shot of all the parts ready to be cast. I just need to clean this up in a couple of places,and it'll completely done.

[JAWS]

Wow that looks sweet Cris. Very nice work.

[79 Daytona]

I agree outstanding work!!!

[427 Cobra]

Thanks,guys. I glad you approve!

No people,I haven't got a new camera yet. These are pictures that I took of the new transfer casing right before the camera I was using blew up. I'll just let the photos tell the story.

[79 Daytona]

That looks GREAT!!! The detail looks outstanding!!

[JAWS]

Get a camera for gods sake man!

[427 Cobra]

This is a photo posted by Beaz of the RPF. This is what I used for reference. This is the vault of the 00 Harrow train,where the fire is stoked to create steam. This assembly was originally a door that opens when the lever is turned to the right. The little rectangles in the middle are where the train engineer would check the fire. The hockey stick shaped levers are where the engineer would grab onto to slide them open. These slid from side to side. The outside bars that are bent on the bottom are the safety hinges this entire assembly opened on. Once the safety latch(the part that looks like the hands on a clock) was depressed these were lifted up out of the floor, this entire vault opened from the left,and was hinged on the right - inside. These were so the safety latch wouldn't just come undone,and the vault just flop open. This entire assembly weighs over 200 pounds.





This is the four foot X from the rear. This is one of the scenes cut from the original Return of the Jedi. This was restored in the anniversary edition. This is the only view I've ever seen of this particular model with the vault in place.





This is a scan of the vault I drew from the reference photos.






This is it with the aluminum tubing I bent yesterday. I taped it to hold it in place,and to keep it from scratching the surface of the scanner.

The outside line is too big. The inner line closest to the vault is the correct size. I resized this according to the Gepard body. When this is cut out,it'll be proportionate to the original version. I'll have to cut discs this size in multiple layers,and glue them together to make up the bulk of the vault,and it'll also allow me to round the outside edge to match the original part. This will be made exactly the same as the original ILM models. The outside "toilet seat" shroud will be cut out to the second line from the farthest outside line that I drew. I'll bulk this up with a couple layers of styrene,and make the curvature with smaller pieces glued to the farthest outside edges,so that I can make the contour of the original "toilet seat".


This isn't idealised,but it's what the four foot version also shared with its' smaller counterparts. I was going to make it like this anyway,even if I didn't have a photo of the four footer from behind. You can see that I traced out the smaller circles with a drill bit guide. I made small center marks to align these,so I get an idea of what this would look like finished,as well as what this should be in proportion. I'll make all the greeblies for this,and glue them to the surface when I get the "toilet seat" made,and glued to it.

[427 Cobra]

Here are the latest parts I've made for the vault. I apologise for the blurry pics that the scanner takes,but until I get another digicam,I can't take any more photos. This will have to do for now. I'm bidding on one of the pawnshop garbage digital cameras that were demo models for wallyworld on feeblebay,so until the auction ends,I won't know if I'll have another picture taker,or not.



The disc is made up of eight sheets of 0.40" thick styrene superglued together. I turned this on the homemade lathe I put together from a hand drill,and a table mounted vise with duct tape to hold this to it while I held a flat board wrapped with 60 grit sandpaper against the edge of it as it spun around. This sounds thick,but it's only 5" 1/16 inch from front to back. The other round parts are made up of multiple sheets of 0.40" thick styrene glued together,and shaped into a circle by hand with an emery board. I then drilled a hole in each of them,then I reamed the edge of each before inserting another rod inside for the complete effect of the inner ridge each of these have.

The rest of the details are washed out with the light of the scanner,but the little "clock hands" are made from one piece. This is the fifth try,as I couldn't get the correct proportions,and angle to my satisfaction. This has the step graduation in it on the top,and the sides from the bigger part of the "arm" to the smaller tip of it. The rest of the parts are made of multiple sheet styrene pieces as well. I'll post pics of this when I get a digicam. This way,it'll be easier to see the overall result.

The parts that look like a walkie talkie,and a rocket are the pieces that will make up the rivets,and the mounting pin for the "clock hands".

[79 Daytona]

Again outstanding work!! I really enjoy watching your work!!

[JAWS]

can't wait til you get a bloody camera!

[427 Cobra]

You,and me both brother - you,and me both!

I've since refined this,and rounded the edge along the sides,and flattened the sides towards the bottom of the vault (circle part). I've also flattened it on the bottom where the little cut-outs are. I've rounded the outside edge along the front to match the original OO Harrow train vault,but I can't show you guys until I get a new camera (like you didn't know that).

The scanner roughs edges - ditorting them,and washes out details,so it's almost worthless. I can't show any refinements that will be viewable with the scanner,so hang on people,and be patient. Thank you all for your compliments,and your patience while hanging on for dear life in this bumpy ride of a thread!

[427 Cobra]

Now after all this time - I finally have a working camera,and a memory card for this. Everyone can finally see what I did up to to the explosion of rampant bad luck that was my mothers' camera. I only had a couple of photos come out fuzzy,but the new camera will make them a lot easier to take,and post for all to see.


These are a little grainy,but I have to figure out what setting to put this on for indoor lighting,and what quality of finish the pictures should have once taken,then saved onto my computer.









Now I see why everyone calls this a toilet seat - it looks like one! But only with all the parts off its' top.






For some reason,the camera wanted to make the pictures black & white the closer I got to my subject. I turned off the flash because it would make the tiny parts wash out. It worked on the settings I had at the time. It just suddenly started making these come out without the green background colour of the cutting mat. I'll have to keep re-adjusting it until I'm satisfied with it again.

I'll just let the last photos tell the rest of the story.

[JAWS]

Excellent work Cris. This coming along just great. So glad you got the camera!

[MonsieurTox]

That's looking great Cris, glad to see this update. That's a lot of work for something probably lost somewhere in the Archives... or in a trash bin !