Randy Cooper Stardestroyer

[olcabour]

I made at the beginning of each episode of the original trilogy
I myself symbolizes the power of the Empire
My shape is simple but graphically awfully effective on screen
I impose with my 1600m long
My opponents all have scared to come under my fire

I am ... the StarDestroyer


Although I had some 2 or 3 things left to correct on my Salzo Galactica, last december I started the Star Destroyer from Randy Cooper.
This is my favorite ship in the SW saga (the falcon coming in second).
So when Randy Cooper announced that long 90cm kit in early 2008, I quickly positioned and I was among the first buyers.
Ther were some parts missing that Randy sent me quickly.

And so he waited since back then.


This is a rather well detailed kit. I will see if it is well designed during assembly, but I have no doubt it will book me a few surprises!

Parts overview (the metal ruler is 50cm long and the floor tiles are 60cm).

top side:



belly:





Upper buildings:







trenches:





Rear:





The bridge:





There is a slight offset on the neck (which I hope to correct in hot water)





The rest of the parts (shield generators, hangar, nozzles ...)




There is an in scale Blockade Runner.




There are some molding defects : bubbles, gaps, flash, resin drops (!)
It seems thare are also some large area to sand, so a fixed belt sander or a lapidary is strongly advised here.












The internal frame is made of 3 resin parts that I don't feel there are not enough, so I am thinking to replace them with wood and aluminum channels.
The display arms are in two parts which I will replace by a single one (a table leg like on my Salzo Galactica)




It is larger than the Anigrand kit of only 20cm (72cm vs 90cm for the RC), that makes it twice bigger in volume.
despite the size, the RC is, to my point of view, more faithfull in shape and detail to the original ESB model, where the Anigrand is a mix between the ANH and ESB stardestroyer studio models.

On the other side, the Anigrand kit is an easier kit to assemble, and of a better molding (some are close to injected !)

[olcabour]

It take me over 2 months to prepare the parts: cleaning defaults, filling bubbles (always with the hedgehog method: superglue and small plastic rods) and gaps ...









Some parts were bent and reshaped with a bath of hot water or heat gun.

I had no 0.5mm optic fiber, so I ordered a 6000m roll from China (aliexpress), and was surprised to receive it the next week (I was expecting a 3-5 weeks delay).

The assembly starts with the lower part, so the two large triangles.
Each triangle is made of three parts, which don't have the same thickness...
And putting them back to back, one can see that the two sides are not symmetrical...






The first gap between the two sides is filled with a resin rod (a resin remaining piece from the cleaning step, shapped with a sanding belt machine).





To be sure that the parts are aligned, they are glued in holding them firmly flat on the table (or a wood board) with pliers. A second gap is the thickness of the plates, which is not uniform from one part to another and it needs to be uniformized to facilitate bonding. Therefore, according to places, I glued 1 to 1.5 mm thick plastic cards.








Note, for this type of kit, it is best to have the fixed and portable electrical equipment to go fast: belt sander, band saw, sander, drill, screwdriver, jigsaw ... and a vacuum cleaner for particles and resin dust. So DIY machines and not just modelling machines.

[olcabour]

I wanted a metal internal frame to ensure it will support manipulations (transport and convention exhibition) and allowing me to exhibit it under different ways.
The display stand points will be:
- underside, with a table leg (as I did with my 37" Galactica http://www.studioscalemodelers.com/forum...l#pid22181)
- Or by the sides, with square tube being inserted in the lateral trenches

So the internal frame is a cross, made from aluminum square tubes of 2 cm width, riveted together with metal brackets, and a metal plate. The underside is maintained by riveting the table leg.
The materials are so hard I broke 2 hand riveters in this operation!
So it will be very strong





The center of the rib is cut in order to the cross go through. The rib is then glued and screwed on a first triangle side.






The center of the belly dome is hollow to allow the display stand/table leg to go through.



The edges are dig so that the cross arms of the cross settled well.

[olcabour]

Now that the frame is made, it must be set on the belly shell.
In fact it is the opposite! technically it's the shell that is attached to the frame, but practically, it is similar because they can no longer be dissociated.

Beforehand I strengthen the ribs with 1cm medium wood plates.





In the center, notches are made in the median rib in order to install the U-shaped aluminum profiles that will keep them out straight the triangles. They are glued and screwed.
I begin with the first side :





The second triangle is stuck maintaining the join with tape. Bonding is first performed with cyano then reinforced with Pattex 100%.






Installation of the second aluminum U-profile




At the front, a small piece of wood, shaping the belt sander, is needed.




At the back, the top of the cross is part of the wooden rib and is reinforced with wooden blocks.




The glue used is Pattex 100%. It is solid and remains somewhat flexible. It starts to set after half an hour, but not cured before 2 hours. So the parts need to be hold in place (pliers, tapes...) during curing.

[Red III]

Looks Great! I have that kit also and it's a ton of resin! I was wondering about an armature, I like your layout.

[olcabour]

(08-01-2015, 10:33 AM)Red III Wrote: Looks Great! I have that kit also and it's a ton of resin! I was wondering about an armature, I like your layout.

Thanks Red III
I think it really needs an armature to be sure to not collapse under it own weight.
It was a necessity for mine, as to support transport and exhibit in collector conventions.

[olcabour]

To align the lateral trenches, I added an evergreen strips (4mmx2mm) over the entire length, and I then glue with cyano.









The nose is a solid part so it needs to be hollowed to later allow the passage of the optic fibers.









The end of each aluminum tube will later receive a cache that will be realized with cutted part from the trench.



By positioning the upper triangles, trench parts gaps and heigth differences are highlighted.






This is corrected with plastic strips.

[el loco]

Wow !
Great build up,
TOP JOB

[olcabour]

Back on this assembly description after a hiatus.
-----
The thickness of the plates of the upper triangle is also non-uniform.









Belt sander and plastic cards plates then come to the rescue ...




After bonding, they are reinforced with U-shaped aluminum profiles, and new slots are made in the ribs







After many dry tests to properly align the assembly (sanding, adding plastic card and the ribs) the two plates are bonded together: first, few drops of cyano for adjustment, then Pattex 100%
They are then just screwed on the model, not yet stuck, so I could get them off to light the model later.




The back shows a serious gap, filled with a resin bit.





Front, the raised plates are shifted between right and left sides. they will be adjusted later.

[olcabour]

I'll take care of the adjustment of the neck, upper buildings and bridge.
It is first made dry, with sanding and adding wedges, maintained with pliers.


I add a PVC L-strip on the rear rib to have a better hold of the neck.






Then the two main parts of the main buildings.





A wooden wedge ensure keeping them on their front side.




Then I go to the higher buildings, where you have to trim the details.





Sometimes there are several millimeters of material to remove...





After numerous runs to the belt sander, thickness is good, but still a wrong angle.




which is resolved after a bath in hot water (which softened the resin and allows it to be reshaped)




And finally the front building. Here too, we must trim the details to insert the part




The angle here is also incorrect






And is adjusted after a run in hot water.
 




It is also necessary to add plastic strip on neck so the bridge is straight.

[olcabour]

The upper is reassemble with screws, which brings its new adjustments (mainly wedges).

Plates:






The neck.






The front side of main buildings





In an assembly with screws, as there is no assembly instructions (this is not an Ikea furniture), it is important to do a complete dry test to be sure not to end up with impossibilities.

[olcabour]

Final catch-up of the heights of the lateral trenches
Some wedges are needed to correct levels, non symmetric details or parts, and adjustments (sanding) trenches to prepare the gluing of the trench lips.

[olcabour]

Now on the back

I add wedges (resin remaining parts from the cleaning step) to improve the gluing surface and clog open gaps that appear.



This is then covered with black (spray can).



And the bottom part is installed




The parts (top/bottom) are not really symmetrical (right / left) , and upper and lower plates of the Stardestroyer don't even have the same angle themselves.
So, several runs on the belt sander were required to have a good fit.

[olcabour]

The hangar bay is built and covered with primer. The small frontal hangar is opened.




I thought there were some bright spots between the tiny ribs, but it was a mistake. The holes that I did for the optical fibers are then sealed with evergren plastic rod.




To bring electricity to the Blockade Runner or Tydirium Shuttle, I install a connector slot from an old computer.
The aluminum cross will be drilled to allow it to go through.




To light the hangar, boxes are built to spread the light through the openings at the top of the vertical side bay walls. The LED are prepared.







Same way to the front opening where the light box is made with evergreen grooved plates to data the illusion of walls of a shed (sorry no photo).

The assembly is reinforced with plastic strips, and with filler glue.

[wizardofthenorth]

Thanks for sharing, and great build log. I hope to get one of these eventually.

[olcabour]

Thanks wizardofthenorth


The locations of the windows are marked with a fine felt pen then drilled (there are hundreds ones...)









In some places of the trenches, larger holes are made, because these areas will be more lighted by diffusion through a clear rod. On the original model, some bulb lights can be clealy seen.




Some holes for optical fibers are drilles fruitlessly, as they finish in aluminum U-strip (which cost me a few bits by the way...). They are then filled back with plastic filler.




The slots of the lateral electrical connectors are prepared. They will be used when the model will be hang from the side.

[olcabour]

Disco atmosphere this time, to work on the discotroyer mirrorballs!

Cleaning of casting defects and bubbles of the shield generators.




Adding beams, Evergreen strips for bottom, and (stronger) brass rods on top.

[Cylon-Knight]

Another AMAZING build!
Thank you for posting all the progress pics, love them.

[olcabour]

Thanks a lot Cylon-Knight

-------


Many small gaps are filled here and there (trenches, overhead structures, neck), and few details repaired following the numerous manipulations and adjustments.




The (Tie) small bay is installed.




The seams of the large plates are reworked (sanding), the panels lines are re-engraved, and small details (missing after sanding) are redone.





Below, the screws are hide with plastic squares.

[3phase]

Wow a lot of work going on here. No way I would attempt one of these.

[el loco]

Great, great Job !
Yeah, the RC kit is not easy, you put much time and patience in that project, can't
wait to see it finished.

Andre

[olcabour]

Thanks a lot el loco

------


At the back of the neck, the waste ejector is set up, and the gaps filled.






The assembly of the three main engines is prepared with screws. They will be permanently installed once their lighting done.







In the trenches, lateral support posts covers are done with the remaining parts from the cuts. A brass loop is added to facilitate extraction using pliers.

[olcabour]

First layer of primer in the trenches and of black inside the model





Lips trenches are now glued.






Lateral support posts covers are also completed with the lips.





Then a new coat of primer in the trenches.

[olcabour]

To facilitate transport, the bridge will be removable.
To hold it in place while remaining removable, I made a sort of plug : I used wood stocks, glued on each side, and 4mm aluminum rods.







The aluminium rods are glued on the neck side. Everything is held in place during bonding.



If a metal plate is screwed onto the bridge wood part to prevent the rods to go too far and damaging the optical fiber and LED to come.



It finally slid a little too well, so I put some masking tape on the rods to slightly enlarge the diameter.

[olcabour]

The underside support goes through the location of belly dome. The dome kit part was not glued, as I kept it to hide the hole when I will use the lateral support.
As the dome is an important visual element below the Stardestroyer, that bothered me to not have it. So I made a mold of the kit part, to have a copy which I hollowed out the center.




To fix these domes, I use two different methods :
- the complete original dome is held with a water cistern blocking unit from a (new) toilet kit. It is glued to the dome.






- For the hollowed dome, I first imagine a system of brackets but finally went with magnets : magnets in the dome, and screws in the stardestroyer belly.

[olcabour]

Next is the setting up step of the electrical and lighting circuit.


Ventral Electric supply





Side electric supply




As the bridge is removable, connectors are done with plugs.



The 3 main thrusters are warm white LED, they are entrenched in truck covers (clear resin parts provided in the kit), painted black then aluminium.








The 4 secondary thrusters are cool white LED (they indeed have a bluish tint on the studio model). They are glued to bottom of tubes, themselves fit into the tubes glued on the engine bells, which will be fixed later.





On the set of model, some bulbs were exposed in the trenches, and lit comprehensive areas in the trenches. To avoid over-lighting the trenches, I use light rods (the bulb being so remote and hidden inside the model).
These light rods are made from frosted clear rods, tubes and warm white LED.
These 11 rods are then glued to the back of the trenches.
(unfortunately, no photo of the installation step)



As I am not sure of me with these light rods, so I placed a switch on the sub-circuit, hidden in the details of a side trench.
A second switch is placed on the sub-circuit of the engines, in case they would interfere during photo shots.

[olcabour]

And I had to go with the optical fibers step (a really boring step)
They are folded in two, the loop staying on the outside (except for the bridge... no reason there... just forget this trick when I started it...). They remain well in place, do not escape and fill two holes simultaneously.








They are then set with a mixture of white glue and black paint.






The fibers are then grouped to warm white or red LED, inserted into tubes (evergreen or recycling of body pens or felt pens).
The white / red allocation is made like the original for the bridge, but randomly elsewher as it was too complicated to do, and besides the right side of the studio model was less detailed and included only very very few fibers (that was the left side that was filmed and then the image reversed).






The tubes LEDs are painted in white to enhance light diffusion inside.





then covered with black for light leaks to the outside.





For the bridge, I had to make some adjustments.








First tests.

[Satazius]

Damn. Love these detailed build posts. Inspiring work.

[olcabour]

Thanks Satazius
-----

It is time to finally close the box, so the whole upper part is installed, glued and screwed to the bottom part.
The back requires a bit more attention (cyano glue and putty) to prevent light leakage.






Last adjustments before painting:
- Realization of covers of the light rods (otherwise too bright)

- side connectors covers (tubes and tank wheels)




- the canons of turbolaser turrets are awfull as is and are replaced by a simple brass rods








- the turrets locations need wedge so that they are level horizontally.

Before:


After:




- the screws are hidden behind small squares of plastic card.




- Obviously, it was just cured when I realize I forgot fiber on a belly outgrowth ! Too bad, the holes are filled with plastic putty. Grrr!

[olcabour]

The openings are masked and then a coat of primer is applied





The preshading consists of panels randomly painted in Panzer gray all over the entire surface.











It is then covered with an off white (white with few drops of sky grey xf19)






Even if the original model is even whiter than what I did, I think it is too much white.
So, to mitigate it, I sanded the surface with an abrasive sponge.




After a light gray oil wash, I airbrushed very thin coat of the same light gray to finally arrive slowly to the color that satisfied me.

[olcabour]

Back on this wip after a very long absence.

While the paint was drying, I go into a small scratch Shuttle Tydirium around a blue 2mm micro LED. I reduced 3-view blueprint for a length of 1.2 cm. The metal rods welded on the LED are embedded in the upper wing. They bring electricity from the connector hidden in the hangar bay.








The 2 escort Tie are only 4 mm long.
The wings are plastic card, the rest is cross of brass rod welded and some white glue to the central ball.

[olcabour]

- With the paint now fully dryed, the optical fibers are cut

- The light rods covers are then placed

Before



After







- the engine lights are too powerful, so I added tracing paper round on blue engines.





For 3 large engines, tracing paper did not work (the aperture is too large and the result too flat). So, I placed cyano plugs directly on the LEDs. They are held with white glue.




left: after | right: before
 



A carrying case is custom built, with 10mm plywood and insulating foam panels.

[NemVia]

Fantastic Work. Love all of the lighting you did. Very awesome detailing as well.
Great Job!!!!
Mark

[Hammer3246]

Super Job!

[JAWS]

Very nice. Great thread. Why he didnt do a studio scale ANHH is beyond me.