Jases Battlestar Galactica

[JAWS]

Thanks very happy with that Ken.

[darkimmitator]

Your quite welcome !!!

[JAWS]

Ok so big day. daughter had her toncils out today so it was a day at the hospital. Something every parent dreads is seeing ther kids all screwed up & makes you feel worse when its yourself that actually put through this ordeal... Anyway its for the best & she did real good. tough lil bugger that one. Anyway on the way home dropped into the little model shop across the road from the school & picked up some Plastruct. Got a lil assortment of stuff & sizes as its really pretty damn cheap. have already built a 'rapore' with the proprietor & things are good.
So amoungst the C Channel & T Strip I grabbed 2 sizes of T Strip that I thought may be right for the wall. I got 4.8mm& 6.4mm T Strip & they have the long section thats the same as on the original Battlestar. Im thinking its the 4.8mm that was used but would like to know if any of you guys know for sure. I also picked up an assortment of C Channel. I also would like to know which C Channel you guys think or know was used in the edges of the ports & which one? Theres the deep C Channel then theres the C Channel with the short sides 'Fine line Styrene Channels'. Looking at the picture I think its the 2.4mm 'Fine line Styrene Channel'. But Ive been wrong before.

[JAWS]

PLEASE READ PREVIOUS POST FOR QUESTIONS

Ok finishing off my big day with some expensive test fits. Nothings cut exact except the Saturn V parts. Some other parts to get fitted soon
On the paerts maps for the top deck #13? Do we know what that is???

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

Have you molded the big 1/8 Entex JPS parts? Please do so before you glue them down. I would like to have a set made as soon as I figure out what parts are needed.

Thanks

Richard

[darkimmitator]

Lookin Good there Jase !!!! And if you are making castings of the 1:8 Jps lotus ,You could put me down for the front steering rack ,located on the engine top between the two saturn v halves ,and has the two antenae or dishes on it.

[JAWS]

No problem boys. That is one part that is getting moulded pretty soon so don't worry. The 1/12 JPS fits in the Saturn V part perfect with the 1/8 over the top. I have a Phantom engine that Phil sent & will also be moulded as soon as possible. Theres only couple of small parts I really need for the top. Phils sent everything he had & together pretty much covers it.

[Wombat]

I like the look of that very much!!

Man that really does look good,even just layed outI'm lLooking forward to getting to that area real soon myself.
Nice work there my fellow G builder!!

[bwayne64]

(05-26-2010, 09:17 PM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: PLEASE READ PREVIOUS POST FOR QUESTIONS

Ok finishing off my big day with some expensive test fits. Nothings cut exact except the Saturn V parts. Some other parts to get fitted soon
On the paerts maps for the top deck #13? Do we know what that is???

Jase I think the consensus on # 13 is that it's a scratch built box. At least thats what everybody told me. I don't see any detail on it, that would say kit part. Cheers,

Joe

[JAWS]

(05-27-2010, 07:36 AM)bwayne64 Wrote:

(05-26-2010, 09:17 PM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: PLEASE READ PREVIOUS POST FOR QUESTIONS

Ok finishing off my big day with some expensive test fits. Nothings cut exact except the Saturn V parts. Some other parts to get fitted soon
On the paerts maps for the top deck #13? Do we know what that is???

Jase I think the consensus on # 13 is that it's a scratch built box. At least thats what everybody told me. I don't see any detail on it, that would say kit part. Cheers,

Joe

Ok Joe I couldn't make anything out either. Maybe if Ken speaks with Jason again he could ask what they did.
Back to the Trench T Strip question - what do you guys rekon it was 2.4mm or 4.8mm?

[bwayne64]

(05-27-2010, 08:04 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Ok Joe I couldn't make anything out either. Maybe if Ken speaks with Jason again he could ask what they did.
Back to the Trench T Strip question - what do you guys rekon it was 2.4mm or 4.8mm?

Jase I know there was a thread at the RI on the trench tee. I think I asked about it before. But can't find the darn thing, LOL. Here's a pic I did on this question. It's from the public domain pics # 52. If you know which part that is with the arrow, the tee strip is just a bit less tall than that part. I don't know the part, so this might be of no help, I'm leaning toward the 1/4 inch base, I guess that would be the 4.8 mm ,Cheers,

Joe




   

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

That T-bar is the dark gray T-8 ABS 1/4" Tee from Plastruct.

Richard

[bwayne64]

Oops, what he said, that would be 6.4 mm. I should have paid attention in math class, LOL

[JAWS]

Sweet. Thanks Richard your the Battlestar Wiki!
Sorry, also thanks Joe!

[Richard_2001]

(05-27-2010, 09:24 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Sweet. Thanks Richard your the Battlestar Wiki!

Jason,

Your welcome and I wouldn't go quite that far but a decade of research has landed quite a few facts in my lap

Richard

[JAWS]

Are there 215 tracks behind the lower 211's? So question is are the 215 tracks on the trench ceiling & floor or just the ceiling?

[bwayne64]

(05-27-2010, 09:24 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Sweet. Thanks Richard your the Battlestar Wiki!
Sorry, also thanks Joe!

No problem man. Richard is the Battlestar Wiki. I'm just a mini Wiki,

---

Jase I don't think there are any tracks on the floor. As you probably know the floor and ceiling don't go all the way in. There is a gap there, probably for cooling. The Ceiling is wider than the floor also, so there was room for the tracks, on the ceiling. I think it's too narrow on the floor, the way they built it. I tried to find a good picture of this, but couldn't find one that shows the trench floor. Hope this helps,

Joe

[Richard_2001]

(05-29-2010, 03:40 PM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Are there 215 tracks behind the lower 211's? So question is are the 215 tracks on the trench ceiling & floor or just the ceiling?

Jason,

The lower trench floor part stops short at the inner half of the 254, (it is just as wide as half the 254) this means there is no room for them on the original. Just put them on the upper one and you are finished with it.

Richard

[JAWS]

Firstly my sight is going I don't know whats happened but my short & long vision has gone quite blurry. Its very frustrating as I had 20/20 vision up to a couple of weeks ago. Its contributed to not getting much achieved. I am quite worried & am off to the Dr's this week to get some answers. Started to get my Rocos ready for action & sanded the tracks down for priming. The breaking of my back plate has come back to haunt me & also helped slow down my being able to work on the ports. I need to have the sections attached so I can line parts up. This is a real bummer. So Ive taken a few steps backwards & slowed down a lot. There were things I haven't attended to so nows the time. Went & got some primer today. damn tamiya cans are expensive, but I know how to use them. Am going to look at an alternative very soon. So I primed up my engine box & lid to see where all the flaws are. This should have been done weeks ago. The only way to see clearly where things need fixing is with primer to highlight the proble. Im glad Ive done this. So Ive hit all the gaps with some Tamiya putty & given it a rough sand. I then went to my local 'Cheaper Auto Spares' & picked up some fine grade paper to smooth out after the rough dowm.

[JAWS]

Firstly my sight is going I don't know whats happened but my short & long vision has gone quite blurry. Its very frustrating as I had 20/20 vision up to a couple of weeks ago. Its contributed to not getting much achieved. I am quite worried & am off to the Dr's this week to get some answers.

Started to get my Rocos ready for action & sanded the tracks down for priming. I also started to saw my rocos for the trench. Wish I could see properly cause their a little off centre. Think I'll leave that for now...
   
The breaking of my back plate has come back to haunt me & also helped slow down my being able to work on the ports. I need to have the sections attached so I can line parts up. This is a real bummer. So Ive taken a few steps backwards & slowed down a lot. There were things I haven't attended to so nows the time.
   
   
   
   
Went & got some primer today. Damn Tamiya cans are expensive, but I know how to use them & how they work. I am going to look at an alternative very soon. So I primed up my engine box & lid to see where all the flaws are. This should have been done weeks ago.
   
   
   
The only way to see clearly where things need fixing is with primer to highlight the proble. Im glad Ive done this. So Ive hit all the gaps with some Tamiya putty & given it a rough sand. I then went to my local 'Cheaper Auto Spares' & picked up some fine grade paper to smooth out after the rough dowm.
   
   
   
   
Most gaps are filled & will finish it up tomorrow as Ive run out of light.
   
Least I got something done Hope I don't go blind

[LastBattlestar]

Looks pretty sharp Jase. Let us know when you find an alternative to the Tamiya primer. I've been using, wait for it, DULUX grey metal primer on most of my builds! Comes in a big 325g can, goes on pretty heavy but dries down very nicely to a finish halfway between satin and gloss, a very hard enamel finish. So far no reaction issues with styrene, filler or kit parts, but things are a little tricky to glue onto it. Scribes without cracking, but man does it stink when it's going off!

Get to the doc ASAP dude. Do you have diabetes issues?

Mike

[JAWS]

Thanks Mike & I didn't but thats not to say I don't. Hopefully its going to get better. Never had anything like this happen to me before. Guess Ive been lucky. Will get to the Dr's as soon as I ca.

[darkimmitator]

We all wish you luck at your Dr.'s checkup there Jase .Get yourself checked out real good . Stay positive my friend !!!

[bwayne64]

Jase, Man sorry to hear about your health issues. I can relate, I've had issues myself the last 6 months. Be careful with all the chemicals you've been dealing with. I don't know thats what it is, but you never know. Be sure to tell the doctor about all the stuff you're exposed to. It might be a reaction to something. Either way, get well soon Mate,


Joe

[Wombat]

Like the rest,i wish you well with your health problems there mate!None of us like visiting the quack but hopefully he can set you on the right path again and it's nothing too serious.

BTW,that engine box is looking pretty damn fine there with the primer splashed on.Remember a lot of those seams won't be visable once the greeblies have gone on.You only really need to worry about a few of them.

[JAWS]

Thanks ken, Ken, Joe, Phil & Mike. A trip to the Dr's is something I think we all put off as long as possible but I'll get there thisafternoon or tomorrow. Im actually hopeing it is something to do with the chemicals that way I may be able to fix it. My instincts are telling me it might have something to do with the Weld-On glue or maybe even my diet as I went hard to lose 12kg I put on last year. I guess we'll find out soon I hope.

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

Take care of yourself mate! Get to the Dr. and check it out you cant build a battlestar if you are blind man.

Best wishes to you

Richard

[KrokoHunter]

my fingers are crossed for you, mate.

Hope it something easily fixable, and not serious.

[JAWS]

Thanks mates. Your all top blokes & glad to have guys watchn my back.

[JAWS]

(05-27-2010, 09:07 AM)bwayne64 Wrote:

(05-27-2010, 08:04 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Ok Joe I couldn't make anything out either. Maybe if Ken speaks with Jason again he could ask what they did.
Back to the Trench T Strip question - what do you guys rekon it was 2.4mm or 4.8mm?

Jase I know there was a thread at the RI on the trench tee. I think I asked about it before. But can't find the darn thing, LOL. Here's a pic I did on this question. It's from the public domain pics # 52. If you know which part that is with the arrow, the tee strip is just a bit less tall than that part. I don't know the part, so this might be of no help, I'm leaning toward the 1/4 inch base, I guess that would be the 4.8 mm ,Cheers,

Joe

Does anyone know what the part with the arrow is? Also the part above it?

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

I have no clue! I am not even sure there is a good picture of that part even.

I will search through my kitlist notes and get back to you on it.

Richard

[darkimmitator]

An update on the plascore .According to Jason from C.R. ,the plascore is extremely expensive ,$500 for a 2 foot sheet !!!!! YIKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[bwayne64]

(06-01-2010, 11:37 AM)darkimmitator Wrote: An update on the plascore .According to Jason from C.R. ,the plascore is extremely expensive ,$500 for a 2 foot sheet !!!!! YIKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yikes is right ! Wow. I've been trying to think of a way to make those parts, from Fiber glass, or something. Painted with a chrome paint, should look OK. But making something with such a thin wall will be a bear. I never did like the way that Plascore looks, all bent up. I can't imagine a Starship would have such a fragile looking engine baffle , Did they say what size the cells are ? Cheers,

Joe

[Wombat]

Wowzer,that ain't cheap shit now is it!

I wonder if they do smaller sheets or if that is the smallest size the sell?If so we are gonna need a lot of Battlestar builders to be able to afford one of them sheets.The other option would be to create something that looks the same,but my preference would be to have the original material in my build.Infact i already know that is what i want,it's just that cost has blown me away.I'm curious to what CR will charge for enough to do G.Was this mentioned earlier?

Jase,i'm not totally sure but that could be one part.As far as i know it hasn't been ID'd yet.There doesnt appear to be any real great pictures of it but you can make it out a little in some of them.I actually asked CR if they had that part,but it was something they don't have.Look's like we'll be sticking something in there that wil just do the job,and afterall,it's gonna be pretty hard to see anyway,so it's notgonna be too critical really what we use.

[darkimmitator]

(06-01-2010, 11:59 AM)bwayne64 Wrote:

(06-01-2010, 11:37 AM)darkimmitator Wrote: An update on the plascore .According to Jason from C.R. ,the plascore is extremely expensive ,$500 for a 2 foot sheet !!!!! YIKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yikes is right ! Wow. I've been trying to think of a way to make those parts, from Fiber glass, or something. Painted with a chrome paint, should look OK. But making something with such a thin wall will be a bear. I never did like the way that Plascore looks, all bent up. I can't imagine a Starship would have such a fragile looking engine baffle , Did they say what size the cells are ? Cheers,

Joe

I believe it was said that the cell openings were 1/4 inch .

---

(06-01-2010, 06:37 PM)Wombat Wrote: Wowzer,that ain't cheap shit now is it!

I wonder if they do smaller sheets or if that is the smallest size the sell?If so we are gonna need a lot of Battlestar builders to be able to afford one of them sheets.The other option would be to create something that looks the same,but my preference would be to have the original material in my build.Infact i already know that is what i want,it's just that cost has blown me away.I'm curious to what CR will charge for enough to do G.Was this mentioned earlier?

Jase,i'm not totally sure but that could be one part.As far as i know it hasn't been ID'd yet.There doesnt appear to be any real great pictures of it but you can make it out a little in some of them.I actually asked CR if they had that part,but it was something they don't have.Look's like we'll be sticking something in there that wil just do the job,and afterall,it's gonna be pretty hard to see anyway,so it's notgonna be too critical really what we use.

I seem to remember Saving a sheet of honeycomb shaped screen that I found sandwiched between two panes of glass from the door of a microwave oven ,that looked very similar to the plascore only thiner in width .I'll search through the shed through my junk pile and see if I can find it .I have also seen industrial ceiling panels for light fixtures with similar honeycomb type holes in the panel ,and roughly the same thickness .

[JAWS]

Ok how many Engine Ports can we do with a 2ft sheet? im thinking just off my head at the size of the openings a rectangled piece 250mm x 120mm divided by 2ftsq should give us like 6 pieces? So what about $83 each.... Oh & my maths skills are basic to say the least.

[JAWS]

Not much to show this week. Ive just discovered the engine box is between 15-25mm to short... Oh well thought Id try setching up my port plating patern to keep my occupied & away from the heavy tools that can do lots of destructive damage Its just a rough to get the main plates fit inside my ports. I'll add the small chips once Ive got these large parts down. There far from 'accurate' but should look ok once cut & glued in.

[Wombat]

Oh they'll they look great,trust me!

Well mate,i've been pretty bumbed out over that bit of news.I was almost ready just to give it up for a bit infact.I really just don't wanna start again!So it's do just that or extend the whole section by what it is short.Now i think your 15-25mm is a bit more than it actually is.From measuring it up and taking in the backplate allowance it's more like 9mm.Least thats what i'm working out here.now that is still a lot but i think we can just extend the end really.There will be no load on it as we can have the backplate mount blocks attached the the sections we have already got built.Thus the backplate is held by that section,not the 9mm extension.That extension will be pretty much covered all over by part's so nothing is really gonna show.Infact it'll only need putty in certain places that will be visable.
We will have to scribe another top lid though.

Anyway fuck it,i've come too far to give up with it now and will get some acrylic tomorrow cut into 9mm strips that i'll use to make up that shortage.
Hopefully it'll all work out!

[JAWS]

Yeah Im hearin ya mate. I was lookin at it last night & sayin "I am not rebuildin that basdard!"....... I had the same thoughts for the extensions & a new lid. So guess I'll make some measurements with some extras for joining supports & get ready for another putty run.

[Richard_2001]

(06-03-2010, 06:12 AM)jasonwright.1972 Wrote: Yeah Im hearin ya mate. I was lookin at it last night & sayin "I am not rebuildin that basdard!"....... I had the same thoughts for the extensions & a new lid. So guess I'll make some measurements with some extras for joining supports & get ready for another putty run.

Jason,

Make it 352.5 mm or 13 7/8" and it will be the correct length.

Richard

[darkimmitator]

I hear you guys and your pain .I have to make a new top plate as well because of having to shorten the front slope and fixing the side slopes to be more square .

[JAWS]

Thanks Ken but things will be better very shortly! Just got back from the plastic supplier who laser cut my extension pieces & new lid Very happy as he laser cut them for complete accuracy. These guys have been lookin after me very well which is really kool. Anyway new lid, extension pieces for botton & sides & the rest of my Roco's arrived also. The Rocos arrived at the right time to get this all sorted. Its funny how these hitches pop up but things always work out for the better in the end. Check out these kool old school boxes they came in with my favourite all time Military Vehicle on the top.

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

Sweet! I have a few of those 6 pack boxes myself They are a pretty cool bit of nostalgia.

Richard

[Wombat]

AWESOME!!

Half ya luck getting those extension pieces cut already,i've gotta wait till next week sometime before i can get mine.But least one of us can nail this lil sidetrack anyway!

It's also good stuff seeing you get your ROCOs already,i hope mine will land tomorrow then,if not it'll be early next week i guess.

[JAWS]

Yeah half my luck. Ok got the Roco's lined up for test fit. I went with what Phil said but added 1mm & got 10mm extensions. After fitting the pieces Richard would be spot on with 352.5mm. So Im 2.5mm off which would take in the lil bits of Centurion track & move the Quad Gun Tractor seat over just a smidge to be accurate.
   
   
   
I have to wait til next week when I get paid to get another set cut.

[JAWS]

Ok a revision from last post. I went back to the Pappas pictures & if you look at GalRes682 you can see the Centurion tracks are raised off the slop & right up close to the 257 hull. This brings it in almost perfect Unfortunately this makes Richards estimate incorrect. My Back plate is 5mm thick. The new lid is cut at 350mm. The lid at 350mm + 5mm plate is exactly 355mm. Also remember the Centurion seat at the front of the slope was moved over 1-2mm to try & fit all the parts on. Phil I would get yours cut at 356-357mm & that will be spot on buddy. I can live with what I have which is maybe a little over a 1mm shortness

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

Don't forget that there is overlap of the 215's and the 257's to account for too. You might come out too long at 357 mm. I gave you just under an 1/8th inch wiggle room at 352.5 mine is tighter at 349.5 mm exactly overall.

Richard

[JAWS]

Ok. That is correct they do sit up a little on the 257's. Damn these buggers. Im happier having a little more rather than a little less though.
Thanks Richard.
Phil nice chatting with you as always. Take in what we've done & get yours cut right.

[Richard_2001]

Jason,

You are most welcome buddy! I have studied this miniature for almost a decade now That better be good for something LOL

Richard

[Wombat]

Richard,your knowledge on this beastie is vast and i know both Jase and I appreciate not only the assistance but the kind and motivating words during the thread.Cheers mate!!

OK,Jase i see what you have there now and like Richard mentioned and you understand,there is overlap of those ROCO's.As i mentioned earlier,the spacing between the 257's is determined by the centurion track between em as far as i can see.Using that for the spacing will then determine how much the 215's sit up on the 257's.This is also going to shorten that length somewhat that you have there.As i mentioned tonight,I'm actually over what i was thinking i would be with the 9mm extension.Mine would work out to 354mm overall with the 5mm backplate.I should perhaps have it changed to 8mm or even perhaps 7mm.
Gee,i've told you before not to listen to anything i say,once again i've been a couple of mm out.

The guy's that know there stuff are the ones ya need to listen to bud.I'm really glad those guy's did a killer price for you,otherwise you'd probably be a lil pissed right now.Sorry dude!